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May 23, 2019 23:53:32   #
spring green has always attracted my cameras.
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May 22, 2019 12:22:10   #
awis01 wrote:
Back in the film days didn't properly engage the leader in the sprocket.


I once took this a step farther. While alone in the woods, I was in a hurry to put in a new roll of film. Popped open the camera back, realized I had not rewound the film, QUICKLY LOOKED AROUND TO SEE IF ANYONE ELSE HAD SEEN MY MISTAKE.
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May 20, 2019 12:17:37   #
Iron sight wrote:
Camera is a Sony A6000. Lens Sony 55-210 Focus is on Automatic AF, Camera is on Intelligent Auto.
Birds are Usually always out of focus. Feeder is in focus.
??



I have recently started to photograph hummingbirds. Without seeing images, I would guess that these little birds are moving in place at a rate that is too fast for the shutter speed that your camera selects.
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May 11, 2019 21:53:00   #
This is not a criticism of UHH; just curious what others may be utilizing.
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May 9, 2019 21:02:29   #
Blurryeyed wrote:
Canon just announced the upcoming release of an 85mm f/1.2 RF lens for their Mirrorless system. The lens costs a whopping $2700 and the recommended accessory is a $35 lens hood. Really? I wonder if they will soon stop sending lens hoods with their L series lenses, the hoods for their big whites start at $500 which there can be no justification for.


Olympus is doing the same thing with its lenses minus hoods, except for the high-end PRO lenses.
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May 4, 2019 20:44:54   #
ashriverguy wrote:
Try National Camera Exchange. They have just made some large metal Prints for me and they are outstanding. I have bought many cameras, lenses, accessories etc from them in the last fifty plus years
and I’ve never been disappointed in their print services or sales.



I buy all my equipment from them.

Do they have a method/software for matching color on your monitor to their output?
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May 4, 2019 00:07:57   #
Stardust wrote:
Wow, did that trigger memories. Use to send my film and print orders to them back in the 70's when I shot weddings but pretty sure the business is closed. Believe the big gun is now West Photo on University.


Back in the 70s Pro Color helped me decide it was time to get out of the wedding business- they lost a roll of formals.
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May 3, 2019 18:53:19   #
I am not getting the results I want from the budget printer at home. As I search for a service, l I have found a mix of praise and too many customer horror stories. I would like to hear from anyone in the area that has been satisfied with the service that they use.

Largest size that I would need is 16x20.

Thanks
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Apr 30, 2019 12:28:47   #
jweeks wrote:
You need something like a Color Munki from X-Rite. It's pretty straightforward. First you calibrate your monitor - the device hangs in front of your monitor while it's software produces a series of color swatches that it measures. This generates a color profile for your monitor.

Then with the monitor profile in place you calibrate your printer: It prints a series of color swatches on an 8.5 x 11 piece of paper. Then you scan those in by running the device over the swatches. It then prints another sheet to refine the profile. You have to do this for each different paper you are going to use.

Combine this with soft proofing in your post processing software for the color profile for that printer/paper combination and you can get really excellent results without a huge number of test prints.
You need something like a Color Munki from X-Rite.... (show quote)


Thanks for the very helpful information.
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Apr 27, 2019 23:01:42   #
gvarner wrote:
I did this all the time with my first SLR, a Mamiya. I’d stop down 1 stop in bright sun or just a half in cloudy or shade. With RAW files and PP, it seems that this would work really well as a guide. I think I’ll use Manual mode and give it a try.


I have often wondered if the "Zone VI Workshop" organization selected its name for this reason. Palm of the hand (just about any person) is approximately Zone six. By adjusting by 1 stop, you are at zone V which is the same as a gray card.

https://teejaw.com/fred-pickers-zone-vi-workshop/
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Apr 27, 2019 22:43:59   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Before you tell me not to listen to this Tony guy let me explain. He has the controversy topic of crop sensor which caused a lot of disagreement but I don't want to talk about that. His latest claim that ISO is fake and I email him asking him to do a test of his cameras and see if they conform to the ISO standard and heard nothing back from him.
I don't see how ISO is fake because.
1. The ISO organization is real and based in Switzerland.
2. There is the ISO standard for digital still cameras and the latest is ISO 12232:2019 published Feb 2019.
3. Unless you test the cameras against this standard and they don't meet the standard then you can't claim that they are fake.
Before you tell me not to listen to this Tony guy ... (show quote)


My take on the subject.

I think what tony is saying is that you could expose all your images at the same low ISO and adjust them in post. Which indicates that the sensor captures the same amount of light no matter the ISO. If you change ISO, the camera's electronics amplify the signal accordingly.

My question: which method of "amplification" is the cleanest/most accurate- camera electronics or post processing?

I doubt that post processing software was designed to take an ISO 200 signal and amplify it to 1600. Camera electronics were designed to amplify the signal. Post software is designed to process raw images and make adjustments to the image that comes out of the camera.
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Apr 21, 2019 14:32:02   #
There are several downloadable targets available. I have not seen any instructions as to the best stock, finish, etc for printing them. Although these targets are probably not equal to the higher quality ones that start at $250, I would like to get the best reproduction as possible to test a tele zoom to see if the issue is me trying to handhold it and what it is capable of on a tripod.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
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Apr 11, 2019 21:09:37   #
dpullum wrote:
Your printer program probably has sliders that is the key as is the viewing light temperature.

Rember that your monitor radiates light and your print image absorbs light. The monitor can be calibrated to look close to the actual object just using the built-in calibration programs or wasting money on calibration gadgets. [I use paint color chart photo and the actual color chart]

I print the image and compare... humm... reds are a bit pale... OK... I use the print program sliders to tweak and print again... eventually, I have my settings. I record them just in case a W-10 update eradicates all my passwords and setting [oops irritation is showing]. Then I look at my print in the living room where the bulb is "warm" oh,oh, looks different than in my computer area where the bulb is a 5200K ... yes, the perception of the printed image changes with the light where the image is viewed. Then again the visual memory of what the images you photograph fades... you and others do not notice anything that is not a significant difference... Few people go to the trouble or are capable of calibrating the end result, the eye/brain combo.

Lighting:
https://blog.lexjet.com/2014/06/30/finding-the-best-lighting-for-color-calibration-and-print-evaluation/

I just go to Walmart and get bulbs marked as 5200K That is close enough. OOPS! wall color... my walls for viewing are ceiling white... with 2 oz of white pigment added... yep Valspar [surly others too] allows tinting so tint WHITE.

Yes, the print will still look OK in your living room with warm 3200K and light green walls. You will know but others will not. If you go to a consular and complain about the fine points of the color of prints of a nude when viewed in different rooms with different color walls and light bulbs ... well, then you will be labeled as an excessive compulsive or as Trump would diagnose ... a "real nut job."
Your printer program probably has sliders that is ... (show quote)


Are you stating that you adjust the image that is to be printed on a one-to-one basis instead of creating and saving a monitor calibration profile that matches your printer output?
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Apr 10, 2019 23:10:16   #
Has anyone color calibrated this family of monitor to their printer? If so, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Is Mac OS calibration sufficient?
Recommendations for the application/hardware you used?

Thanks
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Apr 10, 2019 22:15:12   #
Cadugand wrote:
It does not matter when you do sharpening. I just returned from Photoshop World in DC and heard this question asked and answered numerous times. With modern software and larger file sizes it makes no difference.


This may be true. But for those who do not have modern software that accomplishes sharpening in a different way than traditional unsharp masking, I suggest that you sharpen last.

It is my understanding USM was originally used in analog prepress film processes for printing presses. Next it was introduced into the digital world for scanning.

The digital world has evolved dramatically and we need to understand whether or not our applications have evolved to keep up. To recommend that sharpening can be done at any step in the process may cause image degradation if the your current imaging package does not allow this.
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