I have a Nikon D7100= equal to D7200. To shoot manual lenses with less than perfect eyesight:
Adjust the diopter on the viewfinder until the indicators ( aperture, time etc) is as sharp as possible
Press the shutter halfway (or back button focus) until the focus indicators are visible
Turn the focus ring until the green dot lits up....use the arrows that shows which way to turn the focusing rind
Take the shot
Note: IF the picture is not sharp you have a back-or front focusing problem! Using the live view doesn’t help at all in this case! You have to fine tune the lens so live view AND the green dot indicate sharp photos at the same time!

I get the "not responding" issue quite frequently, and it has been happening for many releases. I've never had to reboot the machine, though. I've also not had to kill Lightroom, and restart it, either. It always works out, though it is annoying how long it can take. Though my computer more than meets the minimum requirements for LR and PS, it does not exceed them by very much. I think the "not responding" issue is probably a combination of not enough memory and that ridiculous pre-fetching, by Windows 10. This is where the OS tries to anticipate your actions, and pre-fetches resources for programs you may have no intention of running. There is no official way of turning this off, but there are hacks.

The situation is so bad, with Windows 10, that the Task Manager often will not come up in any quick manner, and the Task Manager often is a victim of the "not responding" issue. The Task Manager? Come on!

Someone mentioned issues with the last autoupdate of Windows 10. For at least the last three, scheduled updates, I have received several, little fixes to the updates. Several, not one. If MS expects me to continue doing their QA for them, they ought to put me on retainer.

I have struggled with this same question. Creative Live has a pretty good class by Jared Platt - Lightroom® CC: Organizing Your Digital Photo Life - that addresses a lot of the differences between the two apps. I have both in my CC Subscription and am trying to import photos via CC, because the original then goes to the Cloud, and (I think) syncs with Classic by downloading the original to you locally. So then you have originals in two places. Conversely, if you import with Classic - it only syncs previews to the Cloud. You might prefer one over the other, depending on the magnitude of your collection.

I think the editing capabilities in Classic are still a lot better. That convinced me to jump from the LR CC only (w/ 1 TB Storage) to the LR CC, LR Classic, Photoshop version (w/ 1 TB Storage). That decision took me from ~$10/mth to ~$20/mth.

Hi
Fairly recently, I picked up a 1200VA 700 watt UPS
It's designed for PC use with 4 Battery backed Sockets and 2 surge protected sockets.
For a Desktop PC it's probably going to last for around 5 minutes enough time to shut down properly. There are essentially 3 types of UPS: standby, line interactive, and online (priced from low to high).

Mine is a standby type which doesn't regulate the input voltage only kicking in when the mains fails

Line interactive can condition the mains supply to make it more consistent if you suffer from brown outs this may suit you better.

The online type converts ac to dc and back to ac again, these are much more expensive but the supply is constant.

5 minutes doesn't sound very much use but thats at a 700 watt load at a 70 watt load its 50 minutes or 100 minutes at 35 watts.

I have a couple of NAS systems (Network attached storage) which i keep my photos on (amongst other things). One of the worst things you can do is just drop the power to them, you risk corrupting your data.

Of course the UPS sockets are not the same as regular ones so you need adapters, i use an extension lead with a UPS type plug. My two nas systems probably use around 30 watts, so this evening when the power went out they just kept running (i even plugged a mains LED lamp in to the UPS) so i was left with everything working and then the mains came back.

Anyway if your not using a UPS you should consider getting one. When the power goes out you will be glad you did. I've decided to keep the lamp I use in my living room on the UPS as well now (5 watt LED) so now even the light stays on.

Mr. Campbell, it is true that FX lenses can be used on DX bodies but they are not optimal for such use. As I am sure you know the lens uses only the central portion of the sensor which means that the other pixels make no actual contribution to the image because they have been excluded. When using the full size of the sensor, which is the case with DX lenses now we have the full potential of the sensor in use. As I said, a FX lens on DX bodies is acceptable but not for what the lens was intended which is the FX format.
I know that I do not need to say that the wide angle side of the zoom of a FX lens will never perform very well as a wide angle due to the digital factor when used with DX bodies. The tele side is another story because now the digital factor makes it an even better and longer tele that we know is very useful for wildlife photography.
DX lenses on FX bodies create vignette unless the FX body is used as a DX and that is not optimal. Why not use a FX lens that uses ALL the pixels available to the sensor? Some DX lenses, like the Nikon 12-24 f4 AF-S can be used successfully between 18-24mm without vignette with FX bodies and I do that all the time with that lens and my D610. At those focal lengths the lens is capable of using the full FX sensor.
This is a brief explanation of what to expect when using FX lenses with DX bodies.