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Apr 25, 2021 12:17:38   #
jerryc41 wrote:
For fans of TV mystery series, both "The Brokenwood Mysteries," from New Zealand, and "Midsomer Murders," from England, are showing new episodes. I watch them on AcornTV, but they could be available from other services.


FYI - some public libraries offer free access to Acorn (and Kanopy), which may appeal to some more than a paid subscription...
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Apr 21, 2021 09:16:19   #
AzPicLady wrote:
from central Illinois. Debating on taking either I-70 (will take me a bit too far north) or I-64 (a bit difficult to follow on my old map). Does anyone have any suggestions for "must-sees" along either route. I'm debating going to Gettysburg. Is West Virginia pretty enough that I'll want to stop and take lots of pictures?


see http://www.wvphotographs.com/ for some nice samples of Kent Mason's photography of WV
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Apr 19, 2021 08:29:12   #
BrentHarder wrote:
Recently I made a HUGE error: I got an email message to update my operating system on my Mac to Big Sur. I installed it. Little did I know that I was making my CS6 Photoshop program and others non-functioning. Adobe of course wants everyone to pay a monthly subscription fee to have Photoshop and I am now looking into other options. So far the one I am gravitating to is Gimp. It is similar to Photoshop but no fee. I'm wondering if any of you UHH members have switched over to Gimp and if you have, how do you like it? I've been using Photoshop my whole photographic time and didn't want to have to learn a whole new program. I have downloaded Affinity Photo for the free 90 day trial period but it's not really very user friendly. Thanks for your advice in advance.
Recently I made a HUGE error: I got an email messa... (show quote)


Your post reminded me to investigate how to turn off the "Automatically Check For Updates" "feature" that caused me to once hastily and accidentally click the "Update" button instead of the "Remind Me Later" [when I didn't want to be reminded at all]. Knowing that updating would result in turning my LR6 to dust by upgrading the OS, I managed to halt the update/upgrade mid-stride, but this morning resolved to figure out how to prevent that accidental click in the future. Turns out it's fairly easy if anyone else is interested: Click the Apple icon in the upper left corner, go to System Preferences, then to the App Store or if you don't see that, search "Update" then "Advanced" and unclick the box which says "Automatically Check For Updates". You can always reverse this by reversing the process.
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Mar 20, 2021 18:09:48   #
jgunkler wrote:
Same problem with the Epson tank printers - print quality not nearly as good as the regular inkjets. I had one and sent it back. They still do not make a tank printer with comparable print quality for photos.


I find all-in-one printers are kind of like dinner theaters - mediocre dinner, rolled in with mediocre theater? If you're serious about scanning resolution, or color "trueness" in printing, you're better off getting a separate one of each. - k
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Mar 19, 2021 10:28:31   #
Papa j wrote:
Will someone recommend a remote shutter release for my Nikon 750

Thanks joe


Nikon MC-DC2 works fine for my D750. It's a cable that plugs into the side port of the camera. You can also use a totally remote (no cable) I think, but I don't know for sure.
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Mar 12, 2021 12:52:58   #
Thanks so much for the info! It's really helpful to know! - Kevin
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Mar 12, 2021 11:28:07   #
Nice shots! Did you use a trigger of some sort, or rely on trying to time these right? Lens? Lighting? What's the red glimmer in the shots? How achieve it?
Thanks for any clues or tips!

Kevin
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Feb 14, 2021 10:05:14   #
fotoman150 wrote:
For you pros, or anyone with an opinion.

Occasionally, I get a client that wants me to post all of the outtakes (bad pictures) on their Zenfolio site so they can see them and judge for themselves whether or not to keep them.

This happened with the last wedding. I told them that I usually don't show those because it ruins the overall impression of the gallery and sometimes people even get angry when I show them because they feel like they got bad pictures.

The groom said he had several apps that could correct the photos. I told him that is uncool and that if there is something that needed work I would have retouched them and posted them.

We went back and forth like this for awhile until I just gave in and posted the outtakes because I felt like it was going to get me a bad review if I didn't. He was like, "We paid for pictures that we're not getting."

I've had this problem off and on for years. What is your opinion? I'm thinking about putting it in my contract that the outtakes will not be available for viewing, downloading or printing.
For you pros, or anyone with an opinion. br br Oc... (show quote)


Your problem lies in differing expectations: YOU expect (and believe you are limited to giving) to give YOUR impression of your best photos, your best work, which represent YOUR impression of what best conveys YOUR artistic work and impression of the event and people. THEY expected that they were paying for your time and effort, and for all photos you took, regardless of your impression of their value and regardless of artistic "merit." For example, what if you caught "Aunt Marge" mid-blink during the reception, and Marge was famous in the family for always blinking in photos? The photo to you is worthless (or worse), yet would be priceless to the whole family, or Marge has died since the wedding and the family would treasure it, especially since it caught her, as always, in mid-blink.

To avoid hurt feelings, crushed expectations or a contractual dispute (as others have noted above), you need to state clearly in the contract what you are willing/going to deliver, specifically that it will NOT include all photos taken, that YOU will be the sole judge of what photos will be turned over to the client. On the other hand, and at the other end of the spectrum, you can agree turn over all of your work and raw product, and if the client(s) want further work done on particular photos, you can do so for $x per hour.

You have to recognize that people are interested in something different as clients than you are as a professional artist or photographer. Sort of like a Venn diagram whose circles intersect and overlap, but are not identical. My wife, mother and college roommate are all artists, and once they figured out that most people want something "to match the couch" in the living room rather than a sublime rendering of something that doesn't match the couch, they were much more able to sleep peacefully at night, as their artistic sensibility was not assaulted by what sells and what doesn't. You just have to realize that your potential client pool will shrink if you make your conditions known up front, as most people think they're paying for your time and effort, not for what YOU think they should receive and appreciate. Not right or wrong, just have the expectation discussion and agreement (contract) before the event instead of after.
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Jan 26, 2021 09:16:34   #
Gene51 wrote:
I think that you may be looking at this the wrong way.

Your tripod head is failing you. From your description, it sounds like the manner in which the camera is attached to the head is not all that great. Gimbals are really only used with lenses that have tripod collars, and you may end up spending between $80 to $150 for third party lens collars on eBay that may be of questionable quality. You will of course save the $$ you'd spend on an L Plate for the camera, but you haven't addressed the fundamental issue - a less than optimum tripod head.

The best solution, assuming you have a sturdy tripod, is to get a better head with an Arca-Swiss compatible clamp, and a rail so that you can move the camera back for better balance. Using an L bracket and an Arca-Swiss clamp on the rail to attach the camera will give you the flexibility in switching from portrait to landscape, and keep the camera from rotating. The rail should have a double dovetail so that it can be mounted on the head.

The next best solution is to use a rail on your existing head, but the reality is that if your head is insufficient, the rail will only provide modest benefit.

Hejnar Photo sells quality hardware and I am certain you can put together something with their rails and clamps. See my photos below. I used an 5/8" thick 8" double dovetail rail and a 1-1/2" Arca compatible clamp, mounted crosswise on the rail.

https://www.hejnarphotostore.com/

You could go with Bogen/Mafrotto, but it is less of an industry standard and though they have generic L brackets finding a rail that is made to Manfrotto's specs could be a problem. I've never tried looking but you may have better success.

On another note - if you are doing portrait work and you are not doing lots of repetitive headshots, using your camera hand held will provide a lot more flexibility. Using mono lights (preferable) or speedlights lights will keep your images crisp and sharp and free of camera or subject movement induced blur.

I realize none of this is within your budget, but not buying the right gear will only cost you way more than you planned to spend down the road. You already have a tripod and head that isn't cutting it. No point in repeating that mistake.
I think that you may be looking at this the wrong ... (show quote)


Thanks for all of your thoughts, and especially the pictures of how you've set up your camera and tripod - it helps a lot to visualize what you're explaining.
Kevin
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Jan 25, 2021 17:30:44   #
Gene51 wrote:
Using weight as a criterion for tripod selection will most certainly result in money wasted on junk. Nearly every tripod on the market today, even those made of aluminum with lots of plastic parts, will support a 12 lb load. But only a well designed tripod with thick legs will provide the stability required to keep the images free of motion blur. The fact you have already gotten two tripods that won't work with your 600mm lens should tell you all you have to know. With your D850 and 600mm I wouldn't use any tripod with a top tube diameter less than 37mm - and that is cutting it close. Thicker is better.

Image magnification - either by using a long lens at close range, or macro - is the most demanding of tripod stability. Load capacity really has nothing to do with stability.

https://blog.reallyrightstuff.com/choosing-a-tripod-part-1/
https://blog.reallyrightstuff.com/choosing-a-tripod-part-2/
https://blog.reallyrightstuff.com/choosing-a-tripod-part-3/

You don't have to bounce for RRS prices - you can get very reasonable performance from brands like Feisol, LeoFoto and others - but the key spec is top tube diameter.
Using weight as a criterion for tripod selection w... (show quote)


Thanks for all of the information and the thoughts that went into it!
Kevin
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Jan 21, 2021 11:33:30   #
Canisdirus wrote:
Just realize you are changing your framing of the image.


How so? Anything other than 180 degrees out?
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Jan 21, 2021 10:39:57   #
RWR wrote:
No doubt that head, and probably the tripod, is too light duty. I shoot a lot of verticals and prefer a rotating collar, but four of my favorite heavy lenses have either a fixed bush or no tripod mount. I don’t care for L-brackets, so use heavy-duty ball heads and rotate the camera 90° clockwise (as seen from the rear). The forward weight of the lens thus tightens it against the quick-release plate screw and prevents sagging. With an appropriate tripod, off-center weight is not an issue. Good luck!
No doubt that head, and probably the tripod, is to... (show quote)


Thanks for the thoughts and tips - I hadn't thought about the trick of rotating the head clockwise so loosening of the camera wouldn't be an issue. I'll give it a try!
Kevin
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Jan 20, 2021 14:02:27   #
amfoto1 wrote:
Neither of your lenses can be fitted with a truly functional lens collar.

And, to work properly, a gimbal should be paired up with a large lens that has a lens collar.

In other words, it's not "gimbal vs. lens collar"... It's gimbal AND lens collar. Your lenses have no means of fitting a collar AND aren't really large, long or heavy enough to handle properly on a gimbal. So neither a gimbal nor a lens collar is a solution to your problem.

To solve your problem, the easiest and best solution would simply be a better tripod head that holds better and doesn't slip.

If your tripod head uses Arca-Swiss type quick releases, it also might be possible to fit your camera with a long mounting plate that's aligned with the lens axis, rather than tangential to it the way camera plates are normally fitted. This would allow you to slide the camera backward slightly, to improve balance and equilibrium, reducing the tendency of the tripod head to drop.

Or, if you already have an Arca-Swiss camera plate on the bottom of your camera, get a Wimberley M-8 Perpendicular Bracket that fits onto the camera plate but protrudes forward, and will allow the same sliding adjustment for better balance on the tripod head.

Yet another possibility is a lens support. Kirk Photo offers a number of different ones (https://www.kirkphoto.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=lens+support) but they are lens-specific and none is made for Nikkor 28-300 or 105 Micro. You might find a more universal bracket of this type, but it may interfere with some functions of the lens, such as the manual focus or zoom rings. To be helpful, it too much be fitted with an Arca-compatible lens plate and allow for the whole rig to be slid backward atop the tripod for better balance.

You also might try using smaller, shorter prime lenses like 50mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8 or f/2. These also have larger aperture than either the 28-300 or 105mm, so may be able to more strongly blur down backgrounds.

Personally I rarely use a tripod when I'm shooting portraits.
.
Neither of your lenses can be fitted with a truly ... (show quote)


All good thoughts and suggestions - thanks for responding with help! Lots to think about and plan for...
Kevin
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Jan 15, 2021 18:43:09   #
Orphoto wrote:
Thanks for showing us your setup. Those pistol grip heads are not particularly strong to start out and likely don't improve with age. Pushing it way out to the side for a vertical shot is putting a lot of torque on a tiny ball and also the small platform connecting to the body.

Even a medium sized ball head will be a vast improvement in stability. Choosing one using the arca swiss system of engagement will give you additional grip. Look for anti twist features in any camera plate.


Thanks - I didn't know about anti-twist features in the base plate, which is where I think the slippage is occurring - the top surface of the mounting plate is some sort of cork material that has worn shiny with time, so depends almost entirely on the tightening of the mounting screw to resist "drift." Thanks for the tips! - k
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Jan 15, 2021 18:39:51   #
cedymock wrote:
I have one of these Slik 700DX Pro Tripod Legs, been using for years and still use.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/557127-REG/Slik_615_317_700DX_Pro_Tripod_Legs.html

One of the heads I used is the Benro HD2A 3-Way Panhead, it has worked well.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1410667-REG/benro_hd2a_3_way_pan_head.html


Thanks for the tips! I think the slippage is occurring between the bottom of the camera and the surface of the plate at the top of the head, so what you mention should take care of that. Even with the screw wightened forcefully, the torque from the weight of the lens still causes the camera and lens to drift down. Thanks for responding!
Kevin
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