kotography4u

Hi All - I have Nikon 28-300 and Nikon 105 Micro lenses (among others) and am beginning to explore portrait photography. I'm finding that when using a tripod, the weight of the 28-300 and sometimes the 105 micro cause the camera (Nikon D750) to flop down (or at least drop down slightly) when camera is tilted to portrait orientation on tripod. I had thought that a lens collar (to balance the weight more evenly) might be the solution, but looking for info led me to wonder if a gimbal might be smarter, more versatile, worth the extra expense? Whether one incorporates the advantages of the other and then adds more? Can anyone chime in with thoughts about one vs. the other, whether it's worth the extra expense (cost is somewhat an issue , and "used" is not a problem, around $100 is my max). Thoughts on brands or models?
Does the gimbal solve the problem of balancing the lens weight so it doesn't "flop" or does it just give more rotational and vertical flexibility without addressing the flopping problem? Thanks in advance! I appreciate any advice or input!

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

You probably have a few issues if your tripod can't lock the combined weight of your camera and lens.

Let's start with a Cadillac solution:

a) Lens collars and lens plates for all your applicable lenses.
b) L-Plates for all your camera bodies.
c) A gimbal head with quick-release clamp to the various plates on your lenses and bodies.
d) A sturdy tripod with the ability to quickly swap between a ball head and gimbal.
e) A ball-head with quick-release clamp to the various plates on your lenses and bodies. A head that locks the combined weight of your bodies and lenses.

At this point you've undervalued (max $100) the needed investment of the appropriate tripod and head equipment relative to your investment in pro-grade full-frame camera technology. Do you need the "Cadillac" where you can immediately mount / dismount from multiple points using either the lens or the camera? Probably not. But, you certainly need a tripod that allows the mount of a gimbal and / or a ball head capable of holding and locking the weight of your equipment. This is the specific weakness of your current equipment.

Adding a lens collar will change the weight distribution, but not the combined weight of the lens and camera. Your head is more likely the issue. I prefer to shoot from a gimbal, but it makes the tripod awkward for travel, so I prefer to mount the gimbal when I get to the shooting location. If you're only shooting indoors in the same location, this might not be an issue. But, you need to review your tripod's ability to change the head to a gimbal, and to what gimbal, if applicable.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

With your current system it sounds like you have a locking tight issue.Really Right Stuff is the RollsRoyoce of Gimball heads. For your budget of $100 even used is not realistic.

Quixdraw Loc: x

I use a Manfrotto Gimbal and plates, nearly always with considerably larger, heavier lenses than the Nikon 28-300. It is a question of adjusting the position of the lens / camera combo as close to point of balance as possible. Neither of the lenses you mention should be a problem, most likely, you need a better tripod. I bought my Manfrotto / Bogen stuff used, but I paid considerably more than your budget. I'd search used for a name brand tripod rated well over the weight of D750+28-300. Best of luck!

dmsM43

An "L Bracket" on your camera body should solve your problem. A gimbal head won't really help in this case. The camera and lenses that you mentioned are not out of the ordinary weight wise. In any event, the advantage of the "L Bracket" is that you can keep your tripod head level rather than tilting it to get your camera and lens into portrait mode. In the future you might want to consider a better tripod and head. But for now, the "L Bracket" should do the trick. You can find them on eBay or at any camera store.

pendennis

I'm not sure that a gimbal should be considered a solution. They're primarily used to be able to smoothly move a camera/long-lens combination for active wild life, or other action shooting.

Likely you should consider a 3-axis tripod head for your needs. Heads like those from Gitzo and even the older Manfrotto/Bogen such as the Bogen 3047 allow movement but will lock down nicely for macro or portraiture work.

As to your D750 "flopping down", it seems as though your tripod head is too weak, or you haven't locked it down adequately. I own a D750 and have used a 105mm f/2.8 and never had that problem. The 28-300 does have a longer diameter, but it's a lightweight compared to the 70-200 class of lenses, either f/2.8, or f/4.

I purposely omitted ball heads, since they can allow uncoordinated movement, and are far less than ideal for portraiture.

The Nikon 105 f/2.8 has no room for a tripod collar. For support, all 3rd party systems, whether RRS, Hejnar require some type of multiple attachment solution. There are a few 3rd party tripod collars which will attach to the lens barrel, but unless the outside lens and inside collar diameters are equal, you'll end up having to engineer a solution on the spot.

As to your budget, $100 won't even get you started.

kotography4u

As always, thanks for your thoughtful, detailed providing of insight and information! Lots to think about, research and save up for. I need to research more to decide about the issues and points you've raised. I had never even considered that the tripod itself might be the main issue, but your thought on that seems to be echoed by others, so I'm off to Google to learn more! Thanks again! -k

kotography4u

Thanks - since an "L" bracket fits within the budget for now, I'll try it! Seems like all of the other useful and very informative replies will require some more research and saving up for some wise investments! Seems like the foundation of the new edifice will need to start with a better tripod - the one I have now is ball head and just a mounting screw for the camera/lens combination - Kevin

cedymock Loc: Irmo, South Carolina

Better head for your tripod, or better tripod or both. Have both lenses you referred two no problems on D750,D810 or D850, you should not have much drift once tripod is locked down.
What is the weight rating on the head you are currently using?

kotography4u

It's a SLIK Universal 112AF - more than 20 years old. It's been great, light and useful, but maybe time for another one? So much to spend money on...!!!

(Download)

cedymock Loc: Irmo, South Carolina

I have one of these Slik 700DX Pro Tripod Legs, been using for years and still use.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/557127-REG/Slik_615_317_700DX_Pro_Tripod_Legs.html

One of the heads I used is the Benro HD2A 3-Way Panhead, it has worked well.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1410667-REG/benro_hd2a_3_way_pan_head.html

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

Thanks for showing us your setup. Those pistol grip heads are not particularly strong to start out and likely don't improve with age. Pushing it way out to the side for a vertical shot is putting a lot of torque on a tiny ball and also the small platform connecting to the body.

Even a medium sized ball head will be a vast improvement in stability. Choosing one using the arca swiss system of engagement will give you additional grip. Look for anti twist features in any camera plate.

kotography4u

Thanks for the tips! I think the slippage is occurring between the bottom of the camera and the surface of the plate at the top of the head, so what you mention should take care of that. Even with the screw wightened forcefully, the torque from the weight of the lens still causes the camera and lens to drift down. Thanks for responding!
Kevin

kotography4u

Thanks - I didn't know about anti-twist features in the base plate, which is where I think the slippage is occurring - the top surface of the mounting plate is some sort of cork material that has worn shiny with time, so depends almost entirely on the tightening of the mounting screw to resist "drift." Thanks for the tips! - k

eardoc

If you begin to look at new tripods, I thought that you might like to have an explanation of the Gitzo tripod nomenclature. I have published this on the site before. It makes sense once you know their system:

Gitzo nomenclature and numbering system:

Nomenclature: "GX#YZ$%"

1. G = Gitzo

2. X = Family of item
a. A = apparel
b. B = Boom
c. C = Carrying solution
d. H = Head
e. K = Kit
f. M = Monopod
g. T = Tripod

3. # = Series of the item
a. . = 00
b. 0 = 0
c. 1 = 1
d. 2 = 2
e. 3 = 3
f. 4 = 4
g. 5 = 5

4. Y = Materials composing the item
a. 3 = Aluminum
b. 5 = Carbon
c. 7 = Magnesium
d. 8 = Basalt

5. Z = Leg sections for tripods
a. 3 = 3
b. 4 = 4
c. 5 = 5

6. $ = Release version of item
a. 0 = initial release of the item, eg first model
b. 1 = first upgrade of the model
c. 2 = second upgrade of the model
d. 3 = third upgrade of the model

7. % = Extension
a. Different series with different features
Ex = Explorer (off center column, leg locking allowing any angle)
LVL = Leveling series
O = Ocean
S = Systematic series (no center column)
T = Traveler (lighter weight)
G = Geared (geared crank to raise/lower center column)
L = Long (used with Systematic series)
XL = Extra long

QR = Quick release
V = Vintage
B = Baby
C = Compact


*Note: 6X in the nomenclature means “6X carbon fiber tripod”

For example, here is the code broken down for a "GT3530LS":

GT3530LS:

G = Gitzo
T = Tripod
3 = Series
5 = Carbon material
3 = 3 leg sections
0 = initial release of the model
LS = Long systematic (long and no center column)