What is a good photo? In dim light or sunny day? Auto iso on the 60D set the maximum ISO at 6400 and the minimum shutter speed no higher than what is required for the subject. In Av set the f stop around f4 and fire away. Auto ISO uses the lowest iso up to the maximum set before it starts to drop shutter speed below the minimum set. Too Hugh a shutter set as the minimum will drive the iso higher. Keep monitoring the shutter in low light so it's fast enough not to cause blur. Hope this helps. In TV and I believe P the minimum shutter doesn't matter. I never use those modes.

What is a good photo? In dim light or sunny day? Auto iso on the 60D set the maximum ISO at 6400 and the minimum shutter speed no higher than what is required for the subject. In Av set the f stop around f4 and fire away. Auto ISO uses the lowest iso up to the maximum set before it starts to drop shutter speed below the minimum set. Too Hugh a shutter set as the minimum will drive the iso higher. Keep monitoring the shutter in low light so it's fast enough not to cause blur. Hope this helps. In TV and I believe P the minimum shutter doesn't matter. I never use those modes.

Is that why I feel dizzy?

D7200 / Photo Shooting Menu / Image Area : Simply select the crop wanted

I don't know what your budget is but the manfrotto 685B is raised and lowered with a press of the trigger just below the grip as you step on the foot plate. No pressure clips to release makes it really fast to use.
I use a tilt head with Nikon's 70-200 and 200-500.
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/387806-REG/Manfrotto

Try updating the firmware or re-install it.

Jim,

Anything above base ISO creates noise. It is whenever it becomes objectionable to you is where your personal maximum noise ends. The 7100 I had was at 2500 as my high end. The 7200 handled noise to my personal max at around 3800. My D750 is maxed (for me) at about 6400. The more higher end the camera the better it will handle noise and allow for more dynamic range.

If shadow detail is important and you're looking for maximum dynamic range prior to post processing then one might want to know just where highlights start to loose detail. Blinkies can be checked but are not precise, especially when checking the jpg created from the raw file. A little over exposure with raw can be brought back in PS. ETTR becomes a factor for exact exposure to choose the best image possible for editing critical highlight detail. I use bracketing in the above situation for such instances but use manual bracketing as I find it faster to use, generally in one third increments in the above scenario. If one is learning photography bracketing can be a learning tool for gaining experience.

I've had a new D750 for just 3 months. It was an impulse purchase at my local camera store. I always wanted a full frame but I couldn't resist the price @ $1299. Already had the trinity set that I used for my two D7200's plus the 200-500. Unless I need the extra reach the D750 is king for low light and when I know I won't be cropping. Noticed the difference immediately as my personal tolerable max iso is now 6400 rather than 3200 with the D7200. The menus are practically the same and it uses the same battery as the 7200 and 7100. (I couldn't believe Nikon kept that the same.) It has a flip up screen if you need it and I it has the pop up flash for quickies around the house for holiday type fun shots. However, the battery grip configuration is different from the 7100 and 7200.

i understand most people are on a budget but with lenses my thoughts are you get what you can afford. The quality, build and glass leave too much to be worth the price. The 5.6 is very limited.

Steve Perry has detailed techniques using the method. Worth every penny. I've used it but recently picked up some good tips from it as well.

I have two D7200's and love them. However, I just added the D750 (as I have all full frame lenses anyway) when it was reduced about $700 off recently. I love the low light quality it renders. The trick is to frame the in the camera retaining all the pixels rather than post cropping. I found that the 200-500 on the D750 allows me another f-stop over the D7200. My maximum ISO I can tolerate is now 6400.

Steve Perry's download book "Secrets to the Nikon auto focus system" does a great job of taking you through the procedure and complete explanations starting on page 275. The book is about 490 pages. The best I've ever seen on the complete focus systems of all the Nikon cameras. I use the Spyder lens cal with great results.

Most all external zooms creep. Thats just the nature of them when tilted down.

I have both and they are very sharp. I had (and still have) the 16-80 prior to purchasing the 24-70. Love both. The DX is for a crop sensor Nikon only. It is not for full frame camera.For family, general photography or just walking around I like the lighter weight of the 16-80 on the D7200 and gives reach. However, for serious things like close ups, portraits or large prints I'll use the 24-70 on the D750 full frame. If I had to just have one or the other it would be a hard decision for me to make as I use a full frame and a crop sensor. Depends on your budget and what you think you'll benefit most from. Hope this helps.