I know how you feel, and if I had "easy money" to throw at a new system I'd consider the same things. I love the tech improvements, but the cost of a wholesale changeout at a level that would offer substantial improvement is a large consideration for the hobbiest (professional use is another ballgame).

I see much the same thing in the HAM radio world (something I've also done for decades), folks just have to have the latest and often hugely expensive gear, yet they sound about the same over the air as the folks operating with much lesser/older equipment - it always reminds me of my boating days - everything usually amounted to the BOAT acronym - Break Out Another Thousand !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Having handled several new MILC models in a tryout mode, and also owning both MILC and DSLR, unless I was doing a wholesale changeout I would not do anymore "cobbing together" of a mixed system (unless one is happy with their results, then "why not") - I can do all of that with my Nikon and Sony and Canon MILC/DSLR bodies I already have and a ton of native and mixed glass....... For those who have and want to part with the "easy money" that is fine, but whether it improves anything remains to be seen!!

Good luck in your quest, and keep on shooting - that is one of the things that really help many of us the most - shooting/practicing and implementing the things that improve our results based on our output. Ask any gun "shootist", they will probably ehco this, that is why they practice so often( I do)...to maintain/retain their fine ability...new gun or old!

Most of all, enjoy your hobbies!!!

More of my $.02 but hey, opinions (especially from experience) are cheap and easy, and can be helpful!!!

MILC versus DSLR arguments aside:

It's the glass that you need to look into - Unless you are looking for an upgrade excuse or a system change. Opinion is that the new bodies will not really improve the situation. A wholesale change would be worthwhile, but cobbing together a mixed system may not help at all (I know from experience). A completely new kit (body and new glass) would be worthwhile in the long run.

Your Sigma will seem shorter on a full frame (and they are a bit soft at full extension - mine is).....for birding, spend the money on a newer top quality longer lens for what you already have, the newer bodies (FF) will make things appear a bit smaller, and I don't see any real gain on MILC DX or FF with adapter. Both of the bodies you have are good gear. Many folks feel they have to have the latest/greatest equipment to prevail - and we often see that they still fall short in their efforts, but unless you find real fault in the bodies you have, the new MILC's will not make for better results.

My $.02

Of course it is, these are the specs from Apple site: It appears that each lens has a small sensor behind it (look at the camera module section, very small), with very very tiny pixels!! More is not always better/but it may be just fine - there are many pro's/con's in the pixel world, and many opinions of same. It sounds like a very capable system, but I do not have one, so I'm just reading specs.

Pro camera system
48MP Main: 24 mm, ƒ/1.78 aperture, second-generation sensor-shift optical image stabilization, seven‑element lens, 100% Focus Pixels
12MP Ultra Wide: 13 mm, ƒ/2.2 aperture and 120° field of view, six‑element lens, 100% Focus Pixels
12MP 2x Telephoto (enabled by quad-pixel sensor): 48 mm, ƒ/1.78 aperture, second-generation sensor-shift optical image stabilization, seven‑element lens, 100% Focus Pixels
12MP 3x Telephoto: 77 mm, ƒ/2.8 aperture, optical image stabilization, six-element lens
3x optical zoom in, 2x optical zoom out; 6x optical zoom range; digital zoom up to 15x

If the camera is indeed new....grey market is of small concern (maybe more so at resale time/maybe not).....generally if it is working, it will continue for many years without fail, provided you take good care of it. Nikon drops support after a few years anyway...........

1. Sounds like you are in UK (or Europe). Check around in your country for capable repair shops, check with them on support.
2. You bought a new D7500 (simply check the shutter count) for $375 less in US dollars (compared to approx $1,000 over here for new, average). If shutter count confirms new (they cannot be reset as far as I know) save the money, enjoy the camera, and don't worry about the "grey market" boogeyman.
3. A used model could easily be costly as well, and it would not have a warranty either (perhaps 6 months from seller, or aftermarket policy).
4. If you can't get past your fears, return it based on mis-representation (grey market not stated).


As others have mentioned (so far) I have never had a quality camera fail during my years of use (exception was a USED D90 that was no longer supported by the time it failed), and I've been shooting since at least 1970.

Bottom line - it is your decision....weigh the pro's/con's and make a decision, move on!
my $.02 (US)

Nice looking one on ebay (9:05 AM Wednesday 4/12) but only 2hrs49min left, price is up to $220 or so.

I have a 1V1 & 1J1....the 1V1 is a favorite paired with the adapter and works very well with my AF-P and AF-S lenses. The 1V1 paired with my AF-P 70-300VR is a stellar combo (189-810 zoom range), and dpullum is absolutely correct about the results paired with current AI. While not at the level of my D7xxx series, it does a fine job in most situations. Downright compact with native lenses. These and my Sony Nex/Axxx bodies have me in downsizing mode....again enhanced by current AI capabilities.
My $.02

Very nice!! But mis-titled, I think Ant Heaven fits better (lots of tasty food there)....even though they probably are agnostic. .. .. ..........

A "Bad Idea" filter would really be superb!!!!

I like the shots, but completely disagree on the anti renewable energy sentiment - Folks can knock alternative power but my latest bill from FPL here in Florida shows that besides paying a reasonable rate my bill is reduced by $4.43 per 1,000 KWH, and FPL says they have been able to save Floridians over $14 BILLION since 2001 by integrating RENEWABLE ENERGY (SOLAR, ETC.) INTO OUR GRID, and strengthening the grid. From the negative comments concerning alternative renewable energy sources on this post it really does show how litttle the US public knows or understands renewable energy sources and utilization. Just as with photography, folks need to educate themselves to the reality of all these things prior to launching vollies of negativity. AND how many of you will actually accept Nuclear Power Plants in your backyard? I well remember the fervor over the Shoreham Nuke plant on Long Island.

If you own coal/oil stocks I understand you'd complain because who cares if oil companies make 10's of billions per quarter in profits, while everyone suffers from the greed? And coal?

Everyone have a fine day.
My $.02

Nikon serial numbers are not always dedicated in application/region - prior to declaring it to a region I would check the Nikon website or Nikon support, so many produced that there has been a lot of overlap. The real issue for any older models is whether or not they are still supported in any way, meaning that repair parts would almost certainly come from donor bodies. Since this is FF I'd bet that you'd be looking at an MTBF and/or predicted shutter fail well north of 150K clicks (without looking it up).

Nice body for someone, very capable camera!

Cool shot! That would make an excellent storage shed/play house/work shop/etc. and may other uses, wish I had one!

Generally it's "No Worries Mate"!! You will see many post that dispell the need to worry over the scratch - it most likely will not affect anything other than resale value. I can vouch for the same sentiment - Now shoot some test shot in various lighting and see what you get. Take a black magic marker (fine tip) and mark the scratch, rub off any excess coverage, and shoot some test shots again. This should take care of any potential issues with the bare scratch affecting anything, if it actually does cause any issues.

On many lenses the front glass can be removed relatively easily if needed - I do not have this camera but have seen a YouTube video showing removal and replacement of the front element on the RX10 IV model.... I think you might be able to buy the front element, or find a broken RX10 for cheap and swap glass. Check out the videos....if you are simply "done" with the camera, sell it on Ebay as "damaged" and someone will DIY. I would offer it here first as there are many DIY types here who would repair it, I know I would.

Good luck and keep us informed as to your outcome.
My $.02

I get that too!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now....take each day as a blessing and live it best you can, enjoy the ride! Cute puppy set btw!

Throwing the blame for poor photos on their equipment - Develop and refine your technique and educate yourself first please.