The problem with that is almost all Photo magazines are gone. I know, I once subscribed to them all. Shutterbug, Popular Photography, American Photo, Outdoor Photographer, Digital Photo Pro. Outdoor Photography may be the only one left.

I seriously started in photography at age 13 when I received a Minolta SRT-101 SLR so I could capture my 2 favorite things at the time Astrophotography thru a home-built 6” reflector telescope and race cars at the local dirt track.

Along the way I ended up building a Portrait Studio with my wife using cameras from 35mm to 4x5” and eventually a Fuji Pro S2 DSLR.

Fast forward to today where my DSLR is a dated Nikon D7000 and my iPhone 8+. I still photograph cars, Astrophotography, and my other often photographed subjects our cat & grandson.

I belong to 2 Facebook users groups that have really extended the capabilities of my smartphone. The Tiny Shutter group dedicated to smartphone, mainly iPhone photography and Smartphone Astronomy.

Both groups have lead me to many Apps & techniques that really extend the capabilities of my iPhone. Camera +2 has a great Macro Mode that does not require any accessory lenses, allows total manual control, and the ability to save & export Raw files. NightCap is for low light & Astrophotography. SLO Shutter & Specter allow for long exposures to create effects with moving water. Specter allows shooting a long exposure of an area and effectively removes moving people.

There are also high quality accessory lenses by Moment. They manufacture a wide angle, Macro, telephoto, and an Amphormatic (sp?) like a wide angle movie screen. These lenses cost about $100 each and require a special case to hold the phone and attach the lenses like a bayonet Mount.

Thru the use of smartphone to telescope adapters and capture apps I’ve seen incredible Astrophotography that in the past would have required much larger telescopes using cold cameras with 4x5” film. One technique is shooting video of brighter objects like the moon and planets then running that video thru 2 specialty programs that pick the top 50-80% of the images and then Register & Stacks them to create an incredibly detailed & sharp image that would be impossible to capture any other way.

My Iphone allows me to capture great stills & video of our grandson because he doesn’t see it as a camera. When I would pick up my 35mm he would clam up, shut down, or run away. Using the iPhone is the only way because he sees everyone who loves him holding one at times from Mom & Dad all the way to Great Grandma. He also knows he can see Thomas & Friends videos on it.

Finally when captured correctly I can print 13x19” images on either my Canon Pro-100 dye based ink printer or Pro-10 pigment based ink printer.

I consider my iPhone to be a serious camera because of how I use it. I very rarely take snap shots, but use the screen & various apps to visualize and create images that are keepers. And if they are not worthy of keeping I quickly delete them.

That said I hope someday to be able to upgrade my DSLR to possibly a mirrorless. Something with more megapixels than my current 16 with greater sensitivity & better video capability. I’d also love to have a proper drone to play with, but that’s a luxury.

I have a little invested in Bitcoin & Litecoin. My question is about the upcoming Halving of Litecoin. Is it best to sell off some before that happens or let it ride? I’ve read that it’s increasing now because of the upcoming Halving in August & the value will go down significantly after then. Any experienced opinions? Thanks.

I hope to do as well someday. So far I’ve only captured it with my iPhone 8+ thru my ancient Orange tube C8. I’m still working on processing. I think it looks awesome. If it were mine I’d print it large and display it on my wall.

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have a lot going on. Do you have links to your etailing store?

Before running any cleaning test, first run the print head test. I forget the actual name of that test but it will show if any of the colors are blocked in the head or lines. If that prints fine, you match it to an image on the screen, then it’s software or image related.

Is the image profile sRGB or Adobe RGB? I’ve gotten weird results when that was incorrect, even from a photo lab.

Is something out of Gamut?

Print a file you know printed correctly before.

Did you choose the correct paper type?

Have you changed your paper supplier?

Any chance you swapped a cartridge like M & PM or C & PC?

Could be something simple before you think the worst like a bad head or printer.

Let us know

Dave Pro-100 & Pro-10

Lightroom mobile for iPad. I haven’t tried it, but since I pay for Adobe CC monthly I’m going to try it. I can’t stand not seeing file names in Apple Photo. My wife would show images to our daughter of maternity portraits we did for her on the iPad. She would heart ❤️ her favorites. But if they were close in looks to another image I couldn’t ID them by file name.

Is Google Photo any better?

I think at one time I tried ACDSee because it gave EXIF data.

I wish when they were supporting it Google would have ported Picassa to IOS.

I’ll have to look at mine again. I don’t remember anything about multiplying the lens by anything. My D7000 had back focus issues and was fixed upon Calibration. I calibrated my 35, 50, and the kit zoom.

Locally a low shutter count D7100 is available for just $300. I have a D7000 is this a worthy upgrade or just a lateral move. Ideally I want a D7200 or 7500 but $300 is a great price. Thanks 🙏Spiney’s- Dave

I think it’s a great effort. On face effort looks excellent. I’ll be thrilled to have such a result on early efforts.

Way back in 73 I was 13 and really into astronomy. I built a 6” reflector scope with parts from Edmund Scientific in Barrington, NJ. From there I got into Astrophotography with a new Minolta SRT-101 SLR. I was told my Dad’s Argus C3 or Kodak 127 film Instamatic wasn’t going to cut it. From there I built a basement darkroom to develop & print my images of the moon, Jupiter, Saturn. So it became my real gateway into photography & later a career when my wife & I opened our studio.

I took about 25-30 years off of Astronomy to run a business & raise a child. Now just this year I finally got the scope of my dreams a Celestron C-8. An Craigslist find bargain I found for just $125.

So now I need to learn about Polaris alignment & tracking. I’ve shot some images just holding my iPhone 8+ up to the lens without the help of an adopter. I hope soon to get an iPhone adapter & a DSLR T-Mount adapter.

Cloudy & rain every night here in Central PA.

Sorry 😐 I haven’t checked back until now which is past the sale. My experience is totally with Windows from Win 95 all the way thru the current Win-10. I had to buy my current Spyder 5 Pro when upgrading to Win 8 Pro caused me to make my Windows machine dual boot in order to use my Spyder -2. I had to boot into Windows XP, calibrate my screen, and then copy the profile info over to 8 Pro.

I also successfully calibrated a Sony Trintron 19” CRT monitor up until I upgraded to the Spyder 5 Pro. I had to send my Spyder 2 in to get the cheap upgrade price. When I got my 5-Pro I was disappointed 😞 to find it only worked with LCD Monitors. So I had to upgrade my monitor. My wife was happy about that because the 19” CRT took up so much desk space. Nothing like the 21” Viewsonic CRT monitor we previously had. It was beautiful but took up 1/2 the desk and was very heavy. But when we had our studio from 1990-2005 that monitor along with 2 Kodak synced slide projectors sold a lot of portraits up to 40x60”.

I now have a Dell 23” IPS monitor for Photoshop & Lightroom and a basic Dell 19” for the menus.

Heads Up, I get daily specials from B&H. Today only DataColor Spyder 5-Pro $94.95 saves $95. So today only 1/2 price, that’s a great deal. It’s not the Color Munki that Jose Rodriguez of the Inkjet Printing Forum recommends but it is a very good alternative. I’ve had Data Color Calibration since the original back in the late 90’s. DataColor has always stood by their products for me.

Also they are upgradeable usually just thru software.

On top of that there’s a 3rd party Free-Ware Calibration software that calibrates to a higher level and works with both the Color Munki and the DataColor. I forget the name of the program, but when I check & remember it, I’ll post it. I did download & use it and it’s great 👍The software used to come with the DataColor Spyder way back in the day.

I found it: it’s DisplayCal @ DisplayCal.net Open Source monitor Calibration software.

I have no connection to B&H, just trying to pass on a very good deal that absolutely ends tonight.

Here’s the link: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1341750-REG/datacolor_spyder5pro_display_calibration_system.html

Dave

I’d try it before giving it away. My understanding is that HP paper is very archival. The reason has something to do with the way the paper swells and encapsulates the inkjet drops protecting them from the environment.

I have quite a bit of it from my HP Pro-B8190 printer that died just out of extended warranty.

I have printed to it using the closest Canon paper with very successful results.

If your budget is really $350 I highly suggest you get the Pro-10 over the Pro-100. Pigment inks are the choice for pros because they last much longer than the dye based inks of the Pro-100 and others.

Is your monitor calibrated. Because that’s the next step after you get a printer.

If your in the States or Canada I’d check Craigslist or Let it Go, or Facebook Marketplace for a new in box Pro-10. I was blessed to get mine for $50, but that was a steal. Most go for $2-250 with ink & paper. Then use the extra $100 to get a Color Munki screen calibrator.

That said I do have a Pro-100 also that I refill using Precision Color inks. I like the punchier colors for prints of cars I do. You can spray them with Moab UV inhibitors to make them much more perminent. All covered on the Jose Rodriguez videos & Facebook Forums.

I also bought the kit to refill my Pro-10, but haven’t performed that yet.