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Feb 23, 2018 14:39:12   #
You might try this. Snot by Gary P, Thaller. I tried it a few years ago and it works ok.
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Navigation-off-Trails-SNOT/dp/1480106291
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Feb 22, 2018 12:48:09   #
llamb wrote:
This should explain everything!

BELL LAB PROVES EXISTENCE OF DARK SUCKERS!

For years it has been believed that electric bulbs emitted light. However,
recent information from Bell Labs has proven otherwise. Electric bulbs
don't emit light; they suck dark. Thus they now call these bulbs dark
suckers. The dark sucker theory, according to a spokesman from the Labs,
proves the existence of dark, that dark has mass heavier than that of
light, and that dark is faster than light.

The basis of the dark sucker theory is that electric bulbs suck dark. Take
for example the dark suckers in the room where you are. There is less dark
right next to them than there is elsewhere. The larger the dark sucker,
the greater its capacity to suck dark. Dark suckers in a parking lot have
a much greater capacity than the ones in this room.

As with all things, dark suckers don't last forever. Once they are full of
dark, they can no longer suck. This is proven by the black spot on a full
dark sucker. A new candle has a white wick. You will notice that after the
first use, the wick turns black, representing all the dark which has been
sucked into it. If you hold a pencil next to the wick of an operating
candle, the tip will turn black because it got in the path of the dark
flowing into the candle. Unfortunately, these primitive dark suckers have
a very limited range.

There are also portable dark suckers. The bulbs in these can't handle all
of the dark by themselves, and must be aided by a dark storage unit. When
the dark storage unit is full, it must be either emptied or replaced
before the portable dark sucker can operate again.

Dark has mass. When dark goes into a dark sucker, friction from this mass
generates heat. Thus it is not wise to touch an operating dark sucker.
Candles present a special problem, as the dark must travel in the solid
wick instead of through glass. This generates a great amount of heat. Thus
it can be very dangerous to touch an operating candle.

Dark is also heavier than light. If you swim deeper and deeper, you notice
it gets darker and darker. When you reach a depth of approximately fifty
feet, you are in total darkness. This is because the heavier dark sinks to
the bottom of the lake and the ligher light floats to the top.

The immense power of dark can be utilized to a man's advantage. We can
collect the dark that has settled to the bottom of lakes and push it
through turbines, which generates electricity and helps push it to the
ocean where it may be safely stored. Prior to turbines, it was much more
difficult to get dark from rivers and lakes to the ocean. The Indians
recognized this problem and tried to solve it. When on a river in a canoe
traveling in the same direction as the flow of dark, they paddled slowly,
so as not to stop the flow of dark, but when they traveled against the
flow of dark, they paddled quickly so as to help push the dark along its
way.

Finally, we must prove that dark is faster than light. If you stand in an
illuminated room in front of a closed, dark closet, then slowly open the
door, you would see the light slowly enter the closet, but since the dark
is so fast, you would not be able to see the dark leave the closet.

In conclusion, Bell Labs stated that dark suckers make all our lives much
easier. So the next time you look at an electric light bulb, remember that
it is indeed a dark sucker.

That, fellow Ugly Hedgehogs, should settle this matter.

~Lee
This should explain everything! br br BELL LAB PR... (show quote)

I am a scuba diver and it is not dark at 50 feet. It isn't even dark at 126 feet the deepest I've been.
It is very dim but you can see without a dark sucker.
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Feb 22, 2018 12:12:58   #
You may laugh at this but If you know how to properly use it. I would say a scuba sextant. You can wander anywhere you like and at the end of the day walk straight to where you started from.


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Feb 18, 2018 20:11:15   #
kpmac wrote:
Nice set. Sharp focus.

Thank you, I have been having trouble lately with sharpness.
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Feb 18, 2018 19:21:16   #
A few ducks from my afternoon walk.
Instead of manual mode I tried Auto and Aperture mode.
Out of Camera with just minor cropping.


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Feb 18, 2018 18:46:28   #
Sony has play home memories and an image data converter for raw on there web site for free that work well. You should have gotten them with your camera on a CD. There are better programs available if you like to spend money.
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Feb 18, 2018 18:35:24   #
I use the Nikon window mount. It seems to work well.
A park car of course however be sure to turn the engine off unless you like camera shake in your photos.
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Feb 16, 2018 23:53:28   #
BobT wrote:
I recently entered the world of mirrorless with a Panasonic GX85 and 12-32mm kit lens. I also purchased a 100-300mm II lens as well for my wildlife subjects.
But now I'm wondering if I should be considering a 3rd lens to sort of fill in the gap between 32mm and 100mm. And a lens that would also be considered a walk around lens, too. (Only one lens to cover both.) Weather has been very cold lately. So simply taking a walk to see if the 12-32mm would suffice as the walkaround lens, may not happen for a while. But during this time I've been noticing some good deals on lenses that might qualify. So I'd like to get some thoughts and opinions from you folks before spending any more money. By the way I'm loving my new GX85.

Thanks, folks.

Bob
I recently entered the world of mirrorless with a ... (show quote)

Buy the 35-100mm f/2.8 and you should have most everything covered.
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Feb 13, 2018 16:15:44   #
When I was a child I used a 2A Brownie with 116 film which was manual and it never took a bad picture. There wasn't much of a learning curve there. Which inspired my love of photography. After graduation I started with a pair of asahi pentax spotmatics that were bought in Thailand in 1966 during the VN war. They were manual except for the light meters that both quit working in a few months. So I can say I used manual from the beginning. It didn't take long using the sunny 16 rule to get great pictures. In the 70's I added an minolta Srt 101 and an Srt 102 followed by an X370. All which were basically manual compared to today's cameras. In the early 80's I bought a minolta 8000i and a little later an 9xi which both had an auto mode that I rarely used. After college when I opened my studio in 1985 I added a pair of Mamiya RZ67's and a pair of C330's. In the studio I used all manual and at weddings I used the Mamiya's for the formals and the 9xi in auto mode for the receptions only. Now that I am retired I have a pair of Sony DSLR's because I had a zillion minolta lenses lying around which I could use with the Sony's. Even with all the features available on the Sony's I still shoot mostly manual.
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Feb 5, 2018 12:43:28   #
jcboy3 wrote:
So here’s what I have gathered:

Multi-frame Noise Reduction (NR) will take multiple images and combine in camera. This is not really bracketing, as all images are the same. Not available unless shooting JPG only.

Auto HDR will take multiple bracketed images and combine in camera. The “auto” part of this is automatic selection of how many stops between images. Two images are produced, one the base image, and one the combined HDR image. Not available when shooting RAW, not clear if available with RAW + JPG.

BRACKETING is also available for RAW or JPG.

As for default, I found a reference to an “ISO Auto with Multi-Frame NR” as one of the ISO Settings.

Is this a factory default in some mode?
So here’s what I have gathered: br br Multi-frame... (show quote)


I don't know for sure however I am inclined to think that any mode that you cannot turn it on already has it as part on the program. I shot a few pictures of the moon in twilight mode last week. The Auto HDR and the Auto ISO/NR were turned off. Every frame I shot I could hear multiple exposures being taken. Also I was taking Raw + Jpg. When I transferred them to my PC there were no Raw. I am not sure what caused that. I shot a few pics yesterday and got both. There are times when I'm shooting Macro or landscapes in aperture mode and the camera shoots multiple exposures and i'm not sure why.
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Feb 5, 2018 10:33:47   #
gessman wrote:
That's not what's happening in my case if you were referring to my comments. I have hdr turned off on my a6500. As I said, I don't know if all Sony cameras have the feature or not, and yours may not, but what I'm talking about is a function of iso. Here is a url to comments about this feature: http://docs.esupport.sony.com/dvimag/ILCE6000_guide/en/contents/TP0000226588.html

Also, if you would be so kind as to use the "quote reply" button it will reference the post to which you are replying so everyone will know to whom your comment is directed. Everyone will appreciate that.
That's not what's happening in my case if you were... (show quote)


OK, I understand My A77M2 has that function. My A65 does not. I never used that function. The next time I use my Camera I will give it a try and see if it brackets with the appropriate ISO settings. I checked and am only able to turn it on in A,S,M, and P modes I don't shoot Auto, SCN, or Panorama modes very often. It may be possible that in the Auto modes that setting may become active if the ISO warrants it. My manual doesn't give much detail on the function.
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Feb 5, 2018 00:47:40   #
I would have to say no on the bracketing. I own 2 Sony"s and I have used bracketing occasionally however it is not the norm for me or the camera. I was shooting at Longwood gardens in the spring and a lady standing beside me photographing flowers ask me if I was bracketing my exposures as she heard my camera taking a few pics each time. I said no. I have it set to Auto HDR and the camera decides when to use it. Then I had to explain what that is for a half hour. Perhaps that is what is happening with your Sony unless you are getting multiple pics each time?
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Jan 29, 2018 22:15:18   #
I wouldn't worry about what camera you own to start with. You can upgrade anytime. People aren't paying you for what equipment you use. They pay you for your skill and the quality of your work. If you can afford a Phase one XF100MP system go for it. If not just be happy with what you have and improve your skill.
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Jan 20, 2018 22:37:05   #
Same here all my Ektachromes have faded severely. The Kodachrome look great.
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Jan 19, 2018 18:50:43   #
This place is great. https://perfectimagecamera.com/
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