Very well done!!!

I think he posts a pic, then after he saves the original, he scrolls down and there is a box for text right above the posted image. Put your cursor there, add your info, then hit "update". That should do it. Then if you want to post another image, repeat the steps....

A flier here.... Is your exposure compensation set to zero? If that has been shifted down (negative), you will experience similar symptoms. Just a thought

You will probably get this a lot, but I'll put this out there:

Tamron has two 150-600mm variations. They are the referred to as the G1 and G2. The more recent and more expensive G2 has a price in the $1200 range, while the G1 can be had in the $900 range. I have rented them both, and had very good results with both. The G2 felt like it was a bit faster to focus on my D7500, and it is said that the vibration control system is better. I did not shoot in low light so I really could not tell.

Sigma also has two versions of its 150-600 lens. They are the Contemporary, and the Sport. I have no experience with either. The contemporary can be had for about $1100 while the sport runs in the $1700 dollar range. The sport is significantly heavier, but it adds weather proofing to the package. Reviews between the two that I have read is that optically they are VERY similar.

Hope this helps

Great lighting and s really cool composition. A wall hanger for sure 👌

Great capture. I'm pretty sure I ran across you with the body POF when I was one of the "tourists" there around Christmas. As I recall you were very kind with my inexperience. Thank you for your encouragement. You guys that get to shoot at Wako on the regular are blessed. Happy shooting

Steve

6, 5, 7... What is the contest theme?

5 keeps drawing my eye, but from a technical standpoint I think 6 is your winner

All are really good!!! Your bright whites are not blown out in any of these... excellent work!

Some if the best BIF images I have seen here. Those songbirds are so difficult to get... Way to go, an amazing set

The d7500 will keep the tilting touchscreen and is has the upgraded focus system. I upgraded from a d3400 because I found that wildlife and BIF required more from the body than I could get from the d3400. It was a specific need/want. There are great sales on now, and used ( I bought mine used) and refurbished is a huge money saver.

If the subject matter that you shoot is going to be the same for the foreseeable future, what is it that you feel your images are lacking that you think a new body will help.

GAS is expensive, so unless you see something specific that your images lack, I'd hold off in a new body.

I know the 5xxx series is a crop body, but from experience, when you upgrade your lens kit, seriously consider purchasing fx glass. I upgraded my 70-300 kit lens to an AF-S 70-300 4.5-6.3 ED G VR and immediately saw drastic improvement in my images. My thought is best glass affordable before body upgrade. THEN figure out what your body lacks that is holding you back before you upgrade....

Lol.... Looks like Sally got the shot of the day.... The best among many really good images. What gear does she shoot with?

Great captures... You clearly have the basics down and are well on your way to getting great results from your new camera. If I may humbly nit pick....

The whites on the Swan appear to be blown out. White subjects can be very difficult to expose properly so that you can capture the detail. This might be a time to explore exposure compensation. Rule of thumb:. Bright subject on darker background, negative EC. Darker subjects on a brighter background, positive EC. The amounts either way are best discovered thru trial and error/experience.

Just a thought that you can play with.

Hope that this can help.

Thank you so much Paul.... You have been so helpful to me as well as a bit of an inspiration. I keep tinkering and experimenting. Pixels are free....patience is a practice....

As the leaves continue to fill out, my backyard becomes a mass of shadows and fickle lighting. A great way to practice getting what I can while trading ISO for Shutter speed while trying to get the aperture correct to maintain DOF, sharpness, and an exposure that can be worked with in PP. All images are shot Manual with Auto ISO (5000 max), center weighted meter. If you have any suggestions (beyond get better light) on how to try variations of these settings, please let me know.

For those who wonder about the exposure compensation: I used a + E.C. hoping to over expose the details of subjects in shadows....

A good exercise for sure. Here are a few results:
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35 feet, 300 mm, f5.6, 1/1600, ISO 5000

(Download)

50 ft., 300mm, f5.6, 1/2000, ISO 5000, E.C +.7

(Download)

45 ft, 300mm, f5.6 1/2000, ISO 5000, E.C. +.7

(Download)

55 feet 300mm, f5.6, 1/2500, ISO 5000 E.C. +.7 This was just a "snapped shot" as he flew thru....

(Download)

70 feet, 300mm, f5.6, 1/2000, ISO 4500, E.C. +.7

(Download)

There is NO DOUBT about the sharpness/clarity of your captured images. They are amazing. I am wondering about your statement about a sequence of images being properly focused. That 5D should be able to track/focus thru a series of photos. So I am wondering if the 2x extender is hampering focus speed. So, may I ask, 1) what focus mode are you using (single spot, matrix, etc)? 2) Do you think the 2x converter hampers the camera's speed of focus? 3) On my Nikon, I have the ability to set "focus lock" so that the camera will NOT refocus as a bird flies behind a tree, but rather for "x" amount of time stay at the focal distance. Does your camera have this, and if so, might it be set for too long of a time and hamper your ability to get fast moving birds? Also, I am assuming you are using BBF?

I really love the images that you post. Some of the sharpest I have seen anywhere. Thank you for your continued posts.