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Posts for: sloscheider
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Mar 26, 2020 10:54:27   #
another thought - does your monitor have any other connectors like a DVI? it's a larger connector, typically white in color. If it does, don't get another VGA cable, get the DVI cable, it's a digital connection and your color and sharpness will likely improve.
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Mar 26, 2020 10:53:01   #
if you tried the same cable with a different computer that would narrow down the problem to the cable OR the monitor. Do you have another monitor you could try? If you try a different computer AND a different monitor and it still doesn't work that would suggest the cable is bad.
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Mar 13, 2020 01:28:46   #
Seems kind of backward to pick a lens and then say "What's the best camera for low light situation to use with this lens?"

What's your budget? The lens you're picking would suggest a limited budget, in a way you could pick the highest numbered camera you can afford and you'll do alright. If budget isn't a concern, dump the lens and get a D500 or D5 camera body and invest in some constant aperture 2.8 lenses and you'll have a winning combination.

This is a really vague, open ended question and there could be a multitude of reasonable answers.
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Feb 25, 2020 14:51:56   #
I've found these settings work pretty well especially if you have variable lighting conditions:

- Auto ISO with your max ISO selected
- Aperture Priority mode with 2.8 set
- Set your minimum acceptable shutter speed in your Auto ISO settings screen
- Use back button focus
- Experiment with the Focus Tracking system of your camera. In my situation, mostly dog shows, I've found shutting it off gives me the most reliable focus letting the camera adjust as needed. In a situation with multiple targets running around the field while you're trying to track a single player you may need to max out tracking or turn it down. My point here is be aware that it exists and has a huge impact on how many useable shots you produce. The best explanation I've seen is from Steve Perry's book on the Nikon Auto Focus System.
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Feb 21, 2020 01:44:25   #
lsaguy wrote:
Has anyone had a manual printed up by Kinko, Office Depot or the like? There's so much to the manual I'd like to have it printed with a spiral binding so that it will lay out flat and I can have it with me at all times when I'm out learning to be a photographer.
Once again, thanks folks

Rick

Take a look at David Busch's books, he makes them specific to each camera model and I think I'd describe the books as what manuals should be.

http://www.amazon.com/David-Buschs-Digital-Photography-Guides/dp/1598635344/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=David+Busch+d300&qid=1582267307&s=books&sr=1-1
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Jan 11, 2020 20:10:18   #
What PDF viewer are you using? I've seen numerous documents that didn't render properly in the "system provided" PDF viewer, nearly all were solved by downloading the official Adobe PDF viewer.
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Dec 29, 2019 18:12:15   #
could you say “strong, light, cheap - pick any two”?
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Dec 29, 2019 11:20:42   #
gvarner wrote:
By "and their edits" I meant to include the xmp files.

Exporting the folder as a catalog includes all the edits. LR takes care of everything.
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Dec 29, 2019 10:39:59   #
bleirer wrote:
I believe file/export as catalog would do the trick.https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/help/create-catalogs.html

This is exactly what I do after an on-site shoot with my laptop. So long as everything she needs is under one folder structure just select the top level folder and export the folder as a new LR catalog. Copy the folder along with the exported catalog to her computer and either open the exported catalog if this is a brand new installation for her or she can import the catalog into her existing catalog. She will likely need to “locate” the folder afterwords as it will appear with a question mark.
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Dec 28, 2019 14:09:49   #
JohnnyRottenNJ wrote:
Can anyone guide me in selecting a Laser Printer? I went the B&W printer route when I bought a laser printer about 15 years ago. I have a Brother MFC8440 which has served me well.
What I would like to do, is start printing some photos in color, but I want a laser that also has a decent capacity black toner drum. The printers that I have looked at, all have rather small black toner drums. I guess I'm looking for the best of both worlds.

if the Brother MFC8440 is still serving you well I'd let it keep serving and get a good dedicated inkjet photo printer (like the canon Pro 100 that's only $150 after a $200 rebate right now).
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Dec 27, 2019 22:56:35   #
This friendly guy was at the Luquillo Beach Campground in Puerto Rico. Taken with a Holga 120N


(Download)
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Dec 27, 2019 17:54:01   #
Amazon is simply a marketplace, any of us can create an account and start selling stuff. Just because I’ve got a source for cheap tripods doesn’t make me an authorized sell of sirui... when you view an item it states near the top of the page (varies by device used to view) who is the seller and if amazon is the “fulfilled by” entity. I’ve never had trouble getting in touch with Amazon, just go to your orders and there are links for returns as well as product sales support.

You can purchase Hoover vacuum cleaners as well but Hoover won’t honor their 5 year warranty because it’s not from an authorized retailer/seller.
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Dec 27, 2019 09:06:56   #
Who was the seller?
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Dec 26, 2019 21:19:38   #
You could also take a flying leap into the cheapo plastic camera realm and buy a Holga 135

I seriously love my Holga 120, it yielded some of my favorite shots when I was touring Puerto Rico. Light leaks? Yep. Soft focus? Yep. Accidental double exposures? Yeppers! Easily worth the $20 I paid for it....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E75PBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XHwbEb2GVFT4Q
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Dec 26, 2019 01:11:34   #
burkphoto wrote:
Do a clip test if you can, to judge emulsion speed (it decreases with age). Color may shift some, too.

I do a clip test with a 21-step Tiffen gray scale and an X-Rite Color Checker chart placed under controlled lighting.

Meter a gray card. Expose at base ISO and at 1/3 stop intervals for two stops slower. (Say ISO is 200. Test at 200, 160, 125, 100, 80, 64, and 50.) Fire off three blank frames after the test.

In a darkroom or dark bag, open the camera back (do not rewind!). Cut film across the shutter and attach it with a two inch piece of tape to a new spool from a new snap cap 135 cassette. Remove the remaining film cassette from the camera.

Slide the film and spool in the camera through the felt lips of the cassette shell, and snap on the lid. Put that cassette in the camera, close the back, and rewind the film.

Cut a new leader in the film left over.

Develop the clip test. If you use a lab, label the cassette with film name, process (C41, E6, or B&W), and “CLIP TEST”.

Pick the best frame, and set the camera meter to that ISO for that film...
Do a clip test if you can, to judge emulsion speed... (show quote)

That’s really cool, never heard of that. Thanks for the explanation
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