been very happy with my sig 150-600 C. took this out of the car window with a Canon 7D2-been pretty heavily cropped:

(Download)

I have the Sigma 150-600C. I also have the correct Sig converter, for the lens, which the converter also works with 120-300S, 100-400C, and 70-200S, and 150-600S lenses. On my 150-600, if the light is not bright, I find I need to give a manual assist. In good light it works well, albeit a little slower. I shoot Canon 7DmkII and a 5DSR, which only have ONE F/8 focus point. As for sharpness, with proper focus, the TC and lens combos work well. I also shoot the 100-400 and 70-200S lenses, and the converter works very well with these lenses as well.

I own the Sig 70-200 sport, and have been VERY HAPPY with it. I own a dozen Sigma lenses, as well as Canon L glass, and use my Sig's way more than I do the Canon glass. I shoot a 7D2 and 5DSR.

I have that lens, and it is sharp as hell-and I shoot on a 50mp sensor camera.

Been using Dropbox for 4 years, and absolutely love it for file sharing, and for syncing my computers

I use the Sig 100-400mm on Canon 7Dmkii and 5Dsr bodies, and have been very happy. I especially like how light it is for the reach. A company called IShoot, makes an after-market tripod collar for this lens(model SM140). The collar does not allow for rotation within the collar(for shooting vertical), but it is well made. I use my 100-400 with extension tubes for shooting Macro, so the collar has been very handy. I've been impressed with this lens since I bought it 2 yrs ago and it has become a part of my "normal" kit when I go out for general shooting. It also does well for BIF, though the reach is often too short.

You want to look at the Vello line of shutter remotes. I use the Shutter Boss and have been very happy with it. I bought mine(for canon) for around $50

I read that on Photography Life, which is a "Nikon Fan" site.

I use a CPL and ND combo often, when shooting water. I only use use "solid" ND filters(i.e. 3, 4, or 6 stop vs. variable) with a CPL. Generally, the rule of thumb is to stack the CPL last, so that it can be adjusted, and adjust through live view. Be careful when stacking as the frame depth of the stacked filters can show up in the image, depending on how wide you shoot.

Send me a PM when you get to the area. I live in Deland and photograph all over central FL, and would be happy to show you around a few places. The Canaveral seashore, Merritt Island NMR, Viera, etc are great suggestions, but there are "extra" areas to all the above you probably wouldn't find without some local guidance.

Personally, I wouldn't be in a rush. There's new tech in the pipeline for Canon, and Nikon,(others, too) and in a year or 2, the tech should be mature(to some degree). I'm in a "wait and hold" pattern for now-too much invested in EF glass, and 3 EF bodies, to jump into a yet, to be determined, spending spree. Just my 2 cents.

when it comes to SOOC, if you are good enough, it is the way to be/go. However, few people are that good. Me included. I don't think most pics that are "stated" as SOOC, actually are. It's WAAY too easy to cheat that mantra.

Glad to see you "back"!

I use the KASTAR EP-6 batteries for Canon. Been using them for over a year with no problems. I have 12 of them(3 camera bodies). I was using Wasabi and had 3 failures in a year, so I switched. I would expect the Nikon-purposed battery to be a good as my Canon versions.

that's a very good point you make. Keeping a record of the calibrations helped me to spot a problem developing with a lens, as the adjustment kept changing, when all others didn't. Was able to send the lens to canon for repair, at my convenience, rather than have a failure in the field. I wasn't using FoCal, just the in-body adjustments.