Not counting a Praktica, my first serious camera was a Minolta SRT101; in fact, made my first photo money using that camera and a Yashica MAT124 (good medium format, but no future). But, didn't make enough at photography to live, so switched careers to defense electronics software development where I stayed until I retired. During that time, I kept the 101, but shot mostly with a Minolta AL-F rangefinder. Used the ALF because it was small and light and I was traveling a lot.
After I retired from that long time job, I decided to pursue what I had always really wanted to do: photography. Didn't know what brand to buy, but had started with Minolta and knew that line had evolved through merger and buy-out to Konica/Minolta to Sony, so I started looking at Sony. Bought an A230 and quickly outgrew it. Then bought two A850s off of EBay, followed by several a-mount lenses. The 850s have long since paid for themselves, but I still have them and they are still going and are still trustworthy (In fact, just bought a couple of Compact Flash adapters so that I can use these with SD cards). Right now, my number one camera is an A99 (unfortunately, not the A99 II) and an A7R (again, unfortunately, not the A7R II) Happy with both and will probably end up with whatever follows the A7RII (I don't need 20 frames/sec as in the A9).
Since I'm obviously going the e-mount route, a consideration is glass: the new e-mount lenses are bloody expensive. Fortunately, accepting a-mount lenses with an adapter makes a huge number of lenses available (from the used market -- EBay is your friend). And since landscapes and still lifes (including commercial) are my specialties, that's good. The judicious purchase of a good portrait lens will just about fixe me for a while.
To all who replied, thanks -- I'm connected. If any and/or all of the documenters had just shown a picture of a telephone key pad, I'd have figured it out sooner. But, hey, that's what makes life interesting.
I'm trying to connect my Sony A7R to my local WiFi. The network is password protected and the camera keeps asking (as it should, i guess) for the password. But I have a problem: How the Hell do I enter the password?
Thanks.
First camera: Hanimex Practika Nova IB. Followed very shortly by the first camera(s) I used seriously: Minolta SRT101 and a Yashica MAT124 G. After that became infected with terminal GAS. Currently using Sony Full Frame mirrorless (A7R and A6000 along with an A99) and am trying to decide if my budget can handle a Sony A9 without crumbling to dust.
Minolta SRT101
Minolta ALF
Koni Omega Rapid M
Kowa 6
And more...all mine and all working.
Installed a third-party battery brip on my A6000. Worked fine, but I had to remove the grip to remove the memory card. Sometime between then and the re-installation of the grip something happened and the A6000 refused to power on., I now have a moderately expensive brick. No power with or without the battery grip installed; all batteries charged and working in other cameras. Tried the manual camera reset: no go. Any ideas. I'm of the opinion that I severely damaged the connection pins in the camera.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Not sure what I did (or was done to me) but I can no longer download from the MS Store. I click on the Get App button and some ginormous URL is generated, but nothing is done with it and the computer just sits there. I can do this all day long and nothing happens. This occurred about the same time that other apps (MS Weather, for example) disappeared from the start menu. Any ideas? Thanks very much in advance.
Nikon_DonB wrote:
Personally, I'm a Nikon guy. As much as I hate to(at times), I have to agree with SS. Get the Canon. You are already acclimated with Canons' controls, their placement, the various settings/menus and above all, their "feel." If you have to "jump ship," which I do NOT recommend now, at least go with a Nikon because, like Canon, they offer a multitude of different lenses and accessories at various price levels commensurate with your budget and level of expertise.
Don't limit your horizons. Enhance them and grow with them! Isn't that why you want a FF to begin with?
Secondly check out the Big 4 on-line photo stores. B&H, Adorama, Cameta and Roberts. None of these will lead you wrong and have great customer service. Many of them have same as cash financing (PayPal/Bill Me Later) so it's easy to get exactly what you want.
Personally, I'm a Nikon guy. As much as I hate to... (
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I'm a Sony guy, but I have to believe that the OP would be better off staying with the Canon line. The decision to make a change (like the one to Sony) is something that should only be done after a lot of thought, including consideration of previous investments in lenses, accessories, and "feel."
In my case, I've been a Minolta/Konica/Sony shooter my entire photographic life. But most of that was with Sony A-mount lenses (and their predecessors); changing to e-mount even while staying with Sony and with the adapters was difficult.
Note: I still fall back on my A-mount A99 when the chips are down.
From an IQ point of view, you won't go wrong either way, bu stick with what you know.
My "go-to" setup: Sony A99 with Tamron 28-200 f/3.5
Hasn't failed me yet.
Dngallagher wrote:
FWIW - I have heard that there is perhaps up to 90 days that Photoshop will function without the need to "phone home", and once connected again to the internet you are good for another 90 days. I do not know the exact days off line that lead to non-operation though.
I have to wonder though if a communication error even while connected could lead to problems with Lightroom and/or Photoshop assuming the account is not current for some reason.
The one time I had a problem (Credit Card expiration date needed to be updated), I got a message from Adobe telling me that it couldn't verify my status. If the operation of LR or PS ends without comment, it's probably something a bit more technical and probably a bit closer to home.
Armadillo wrote:
Moose,
The photo you used as a sample has no EXIF image data attached, so I must use only what I can see on the scree as to what is happening to your sharpness.
It looks like in your effort to stop camera movement and subject movement you increase the shutter speed to freeze the motion; while this will perform the task you seek it will ignore the narrow Depth Of Field (DOF) for your lens.
With a narrow DOF (f/2.0) your range of sharp focus might be around 1/2 inch. If all is stable you might get the petals of one bloom in focus, but everything else will be soft focus. For your purposes your DOF must include the distance from camera to subject and from a point selected on the chosen subject and a distance in front of that subject and behind the subject. Therefore, if you selected the edge of a petal you needed sufficient DOF to cover 1/8 inch in front of that petal and 4 inches behind that petal.
Shutter speed will freeze camera and subject lateral motion, but will not freeze soft focus caused by any motion that changes the distance between camera and subject. In order to accomplish what you desire you will need a faster shutter speed (1/500sec.) and a much greater DOF on the aperture for the lens (f/16 or greater).
There are a few ways to accomplish this; increase the ISO (sensor sensitivity) to ISO=3200, place camera on a solid object, use a shutter cable release, and spend the time to set-up and use a tripod. Increasing the ISO will enable you to increase the shutter speed to freeze lateral motion, increase the aperture to gain DOF, but will also increase the digital noise the sensor will insert into the photo as electrical noise.
Your best option is to spend the cash on a good tripod and allocate the time to set it up correctly and use it for those hand held pictures you cannot capture now.
Good shooting,
Michael G
Moose, br br The photo you used as a sample has n... (
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What he said. Excellent advice!
Silvermeteor wrote:
The taller tripod has been moved to the front burner. I am on SS so one of the expensive tripods with ball head will remain a dream but I can get a moderately priced taller one.
I may be fighting a losing battle. Cataracts, glasses, bright sunshine, etc. Seems like swimming upstream. lol
The taller tripod is the most important step. After that, add a hat with a large floppy brim or a baseball cap. I never shoot outdoors without head gear that allows the brim or the bill to shade the viewfinder.
Finally, focus through the electronic (or optical) viewfinder -- it's easier to shade. The LCD (if it supports focus at all) is too large to effectively shade.