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Sep 3, 2017 17:55:41   #
Not counting a Praktica, my first serious camera was a Minolta SRT101; in fact, made my first photo money using that camera and a Yashica MAT124 (good medium format, but no future). But, didn't make enough at photography to live, so switched careers to defense electronics software development where I stayed until I retired. During that time, I kept the 101, but shot mostly with a Minolta AL-F rangefinder. Used the ALF because it was small and light and I was traveling a lot.

After I retired from that long time job, I decided to pursue what I had always really wanted to do: photography. Didn't know what brand to buy, but had started with Minolta and knew that line had evolved through merger and buy-out to Konica/Minolta to Sony, so I started looking at Sony. Bought an A230 and quickly outgrew it. Then bought two A850s off of EBay, followed by several a-mount lenses. The 850s have long since paid for themselves, but I still have them and they are still going and are still trustworthy (In fact, just bought a couple of Compact Flash adapters so that I can use these with SD cards). Right now, my number one camera is an A99 (unfortunately, not the A99 II) and an A7R (again, unfortunately, not the A7R II) Happy with both and will probably end up with whatever follows the A7RII (I don't need 20 frames/sec as in the A9).

Since I'm obviously going the e-mount route, a consideration is glass: the new e-mount lenses are bloody expensive. Fortunately, accepting a-mount lenses with an adapter makes a huge number of lenses available (from the used market -- EBay is your friend). And since landscapes and still lifes (including commercial) are my specialties, that's good. The judicious purchase of a good portrait lens will just about fixe me for a while.
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Jul 24, 2017 06:24:37   #
To all who replied, thanks -- I'm connected. If any and/or all of the documenters had just shown a picture of a telephone key pad, I'd have figured it out sooner. But, hey, that's what makes life interesting.
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Jul 22, 2017 17:43:03   #
I'm trying to connect my Sony A7R to my local WiFi. The network is password protected and the camera keeps asking (as it should, i guess) for the password. But I have a problem: How the Hell do I enter the password?

Thanks.
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Jul 17, 2017 08:25:15   #
First camera: Hanimex Practika Nova IB. Followed very shortly by the first camera(s) I used seriously: Minolta SRT101 and a Yashica MAT124 G. After that became infected with terminal GAS. Currently using Sony Full Frame mirrorless (A7R and A6000 along with an A99) and am trying to decide if my budget can handle a Sony A9 without crumbling to dust.
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Jun 18, 2017 07:17:05   #
Minolta SRT101
Minolta ALF
Koni Omega Rapid M
Kowa 6

And more...all mine and all working.
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Apr 3, 2017 10:01:51   #
Installed a third-party battery brip on my A6000. Worked fine, but I had to remove the grip to remove the memory card. Sometime between then and the re-installation of the grip something happened and the A6000 refused to power on., I now have a moderately expensive brick. No power with or without the battery grip installed; all batteries charged and working in other cameras. Tried the manual camera reset: no go. Any ideas. I'm of the opinion that I severely damaged the connection pins in the camera.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
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Jan 31, 2017 13:33:23   #
Not sure what I did (or was done to me) but I can no longer download from the MS Store. I click on the Get App button and some ginormous URL is generated, but nothing is done with it and the computer just sits there. I can do this all day long and nothing happens. This occurred about the same time that other apps (MS Weather, for example) disappeared from the start menu. Any ideas? Thanks very much in advance.
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Dec 8, 2016 11:36:05   #
Excellent advice.
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Dec 7, 2016 08:35:11   #
Bugfan wrote:
I have known a few people, friends, who dreamed of starting a business. Of course I get excited when I hear this and I encourage them forward. Only one ever succeeded. I made some observations. There are three individuals I'll use to illustrate this. One developed some sophisticated software for the research community. Another wanted to get into photography. A third wanted to sell paperbacks to libraries.

The first lunch we had after each started was pretty well the same, I got an overview of the product or the services. I thought that was fair, after all each had only just started.

The second lunch three months later was more telling. The photographer told me about new techniques he had developed gear he had bought feeeling that will give him a business edge. The developer spoke eloquently about how his application has evolved and how the research community was even more excited about it. The whosaler told me he's lined up a few libraries and what's ahead.

After a year I had lunch with each again. The photographer kept getting better and kept buying more gear to address any needs the customers may have. And he managed to even get a wedding to do but that was it. The developer was still improving his application and getting more people excited but there were no sales. The wholsaler had started to ship half a million dollars of books by then and acticipated doubling that income the next year.

So what happened? Clearly the wholesaler got his business going, the last time we had lunch he was turning over ten milloin a year. The photographer went back to a day job. The developer also went back to a day job.

I have two major passions, crafts and photography. Over six decades, judicious acquisition of tools and gear, have made me very good at these, some say exceptional. And naturally in that situation many have told me I should start a business. My reply to that is that if I were to turn either passion into a business I would hate it because then it would become work instead of fun. Whether pictures or crafts, I'd have to be on the street marketing, I'd have to spend endless hours in craft shows selling, I'd have to keep books and worry about generating enough business to keep myself going. And of course with the crafts I'd be investing in computer conrolled machines to speed up production which means I will never again experience the joy of making something by hand.

If you want to start a businss go for it. But, adjust your focus. Starting a photography business is not a chance to spend your life taking pictures. If that's your goal don't bother, see if you can be an assistant to an existing photographer. If you really want to make money recognize that the pictures people want are not necessarily the ones you want to take. Recognize that what you should be focusing upon is not how many pictures you've taken but rather how many clients you've signed up and how to get more. Recognize you're not in the picture taking business, you are in the business of creating memories and sell yourself that way. If I were to have lunch with you a year from now, I am expecting to hear about your revenues, how they've grown over the past year. I'd want to hear how you've grown your client base and what strategies you have for growing it ever more. I want to hear what your profit margins are and how they have grown. If I hear those things I know you'll succeed. If I don't hear those things, I know you will fail.

If you were to hire a salesman perhaps to sell some of your pictures, what kind of a personality do you need? Well obviously you want one who is persuasive and knows intuitively how to convince people to buy his products. But more importantly, you want someone who is greedy, who wants to retire by the time he's forty. That is the kind of personality that will sell a lot of your pictures. If he lacks that need for wealth he's got no incentive to sell your pictures.

And so it needs to be with you. Opening a busines you have to be greedy, you have to have a passion for making money. That's what a businss is all about, making money. Oh sure you can have softer targets like showing the business world how to care for customers, how to be ethical and fair at all times, how to listen to your customers so your products are always in demand. Those are nice sentiments too and a good thing to do, but in the end if you don't make money, those other semtiments will not happen either. Before you give up your day job set a revenue target for the first year and then set about achieving it. If that is your focus you will win. If that isn't your focus, you won't last long.

Finally, it seems to take about three years to get a business started. At least that's what I've observed. The first year is usually reasonably easy since you've likely put away enough to cover your overheads. The second year is a bit tougher, you don't have a lot of clients yet so you're dipping into your reserves and the road ahead looks bleak. The third year is the worst. Your reserves are gone and though your client base is still growing it's usually not growing fast enough. That is the moment when you have to decide once and for all whether you will finish building your business or start looking for a day job. If you can hold on and take the risk, odds are in your favour and you will find yourself with a very successful business by year four.

I actually also had another friend who made it all the way to year three and then collapsed and got a day job again. He couldn't deal with the stress and he lacked the self confidence to be willing to take a risk. By contrast, my wholesaler's third year was as much of a hell too. Things got so bad for him that I had to bring my own Scotch when visiting. They had to watch every penny. But they were willing to take the risk and in the end they won.

So keep that in mind too.

Good Luck!
I have known a few people, friends, who dreamed of... (show quote)


Absolutely! Right on!
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Sep 15, 2016 09:15:49   #
Nikon_DonB wrote:
Personally, I'm a Nikon guy. As much as I hate to(at times), I have to agree with SS. Get the Canon. You are already acclimated with Canons' controls, their placement, the various settings/menus and above all, their "feel." If you have to "jump ship," which I do NOT recommend now, at least go with a Nikon because, like Canon, they offer a multitude of different lenses and accessories at various price levels commensurate with your budget and level of expertise.
Don't limit your horizons. Enhance them and grow with them! Isn't that why you want a FF to begin with?

Secondly check out the Big 4 on-line photo stores. B&H, Adorama, Cameta and Roberts. None of these will lead you wrong and have great customer service. Many of them have same as cash financing (PayPal/Bill Me Later) so it's easy to get exactly what you want.
Personally, I'm a Nikon guy. As much as I hate to... (show quote)


I'm a Sony guy, but I have to believe that the OP would be better off staying with the Canon line. The decision to make a change (like the one to Sony) is something that should only be done after a lot of thought, including consideration of previous investments in lenses, accessories, and "feel."

In my case, I've been a Minolta/Konica/Sony shooter my entire photographic life. But most of that was with Sony A-mount lenses (and their predecessors); changing to e-mount even while staying with Sony and with the adapters was difficult.

Note: I still fall back on my A-mount A99 when the chips are down.

From an IQ point of view, you won't go wrong either way, bu stick with what you know.
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Sep 14, 2016 09:33:06   #
My "go-to" setup: Sony A99 with Tamron 28-200 f/3.5

Hasn't failed me yet.
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Aug 26, 2016 16:20:24   #
Dngallagher wrote:
FWIW - I have heard that there is perhaps up to 90 days that Photoshop will function without the need to "phone home", and once connected again to the internet you are good for another 90 days. I do not know the exact days off line that lead to non-operation though.

I have to wonder though if a communication error even while connected could lead to problems with Lightroom and/or Photoshop assuming the account is not current for some reason.


The one time I had a problem (Credit Card expiration date needed to be updated), I got a message from Adobe telling me that it couldn't verify my status. If the operation of LR or PS ends without comment, it's probably something a bit more technical and probably a bit closer to home.
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Jul 2, 2016 09:37:50   #
mcveed wrote:
For any given photographer a "better" camera will probably result in better pictures. However, the "better" camera may depend completely on the type of photographs he/she takes. A landscape photographer may consider more Megapixels to equate to 'better'. A wildlife photographer would consider 'better' to mean faster AF, larger buffer etc. However, a mediocre photographer will probably find that a 'better' camera just makes it easier for him to continue taking mediocre pictures. A truly skilled photographer will find less improvement with a more capable camera. His/her photographs will continue to be good but getting them will be less difficult. Basically a better camera may make your pictures better, but it won't make you a better photographer.
For any given photographer a "better" ca... (show quote)


Best reply yet.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:30:33   #
Armadillo wrote:
Moose,

The photo you used as a sample has no EXIF image data attached, so I must use only what I can see on the scree as to what is happening to your sharpness.

It looks like in your effort to stop camera movement and subject movement you increase the shutter speed to freeze the motion; while this will perform the task you seek it will ignore the narrow Depth Of Field (DOF) for your lens.

With a narrow DOF (f/2.0) your range of sharp focus might be around 1/2 inch. If all is stable you might get the petals of one bloom in focus, but everything else will be soft focus. For your purposes your DOF must include the distance from camera to subject and from a point selected on the chosen subject and a distance in front of that subject and behind the subject. Therefore, if you selected the edge of a petal you needed sufficient DOF to cover 1/8 inch in front of that petal and 4 inches behind that petal.

Shutter speed will freeze camera and subject lateral motion, but will not freeze soft focus caused by any motion that changes the distance between camera and subject. In order to accomplish what you desire you will need a faster shutter speed (1/500sec.) and a much greater DOF on the aperture for the lens (f/16 or greater).

There are a few ways to accomplish this; increase the ISO (sensor sensitivity) to ISO=3200, place camera on a solid object, use a shutter cable release, and spend the time to set-up and use a tripod. Increasing the ISO will enable you to increase the shutter speed to freeze lateral motion, increase the aperture to gain DOF, but will also increase the digital noise the sensor will insert into the photo as electrical noise.

Your best option is to spend the cash on a good tripod and allocate the time to set it up correctly and use it for those hand held pictures you cannot capture now.

Good shooting,

Michael G
Moose, br br The photo you used as a sample has n... (show quote)


What he said. Excellent advice!
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Apr 4, 2016 08:55:06   #
Silvermeteor wrote:
The taller tripod has been moved to the front burner. I am on SS so one of the expensive tripods with ball head will remain a dream but I can get a moderately priced taller one.

I may be fighting a losing battle. Cataracts, glasses, bright sunshine, etc. Seems like swimming upstream. lol


The taller tripod is the most important step. After that, add a hat with a large floppy brim or a baseball cap. I never shoot outdoors without head gear that allows the brim or the bill to shade the viewfinder.

Finally, focus through the electronic (or optical) viewfinder -- it's easier to shade. The LCD (if it supports focus at all) is too large to effectively shade.
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