You used to could buy straps like that (for batteries and rolls of film, natch).
I think the need for reversing enlarging lenses for photograph is moot. Most of the good ones (6 element) are 'symmetric': that is, the light behaves the same way going through the lens front to back, or back to front. It is 'asymmetric' lenses (almost all camera lenses since the 30's) that need reversing.
I agree with the Polarizing Gels' advice, but there is a catch: they eat up great GOBS of light. You might have to make time exposures if you muse the lights that come with most soft boxes.
I agree with the Polarizing Gels' advice, but there is a catch: they eat up great GOBS of light. You might have to make time exposures if you muse the lights that come with most soft boxes.
I use 'Tether' products for this purpose and they're very functional, being hardware. I would assume they'll work with any camera that has an AV outlet. But then, I'm often wrong.
http://www.tethertools.com/plugging-in/
fstoppers.com/like-shooting-tethered-check-out-some-of-these-awesome-products-from-tethered-tools
Steve Stoneblossom has given you very good advice; the only thing I can add is that you put a Circular Polarizer on you lens, and learn how to use it.
I have had no direct experience with Ryther, but the one I time I checked, their prices were higher than B&H/Adorama.
I did try 42nd: they tried to screw me and (rightly) have a terrible reputation.
Heres the one I put my money on, and I'm very happy with it:
Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM at B&H Photo; no tax, no shipping.
The reason you can't buy a CIS or 'remanufactured' set of inks for this printer is that noone has so far been able (or willing) to replicate the chip that Canon puts in the cartridge to ... well, keep people from selling 'compatible' ink. The difference between my Pro9000 and the Pro1 is that the red and green in the 9000 is changed to gray and light gray. This, they say, improves the look of B&W prints.0
Thus there are only two options for non-OEM ink: 1) Refill kits of just the ink which require a 'chip resetter' developed in Germany and sold by a Chinese company that's based in Britain (our modern world-wide economy is marvelous, no?)(http://www.octoink.co.uk/products/CLI%252d42-Chip-Resetter-for-Canon-Pro%252d100.html) 2) A CIS that has new cartridges into which you somehow transfer the chips from the Canon ones( Chinese company, and in China). I have tried the refilling option and I'm getting too un-coordinated to do it without spilling; Only God knows how I'd mess up transferring the chips. Never mind, I'm going to try it because I simply can't (or won't) afford Canon inks.
I'm still investigating and am hot on the trail of some other possibilities, but as it's Sunday (wish I were in Oz today!) that must wait until tomorrow.
The reason you can't buy a CIS or 'remanufactured' set of inks for this printer is that noone has so far been able (or willing) to replicate the chip that Canon puts in the cartridge to ... well, keep people from selling 'compatible' ink. The difference between my Pro9000 and the Pro1 is that the red and green in the 9000 is changed to gray and light gray. This, they say, improves the look of B&W prints.0
Thus there are only two options for non-OEM ink: 1) Refill kits of just the ink which require a 'chip resetter' developed in Germany and sold by a Chinese company that's based in Britain (our modern world-wide economy is marvelous, no?)(http://www.octoink.co.uk/products/CLI%252d42-Chip-Resetter-for-Canon-Pro%252d100.html) 2) A CIS that has new cartridges into which you somehow transfer the chips from the Canon ones( Chinese company, and in China). I have tried the refilling option and I'm getting too un-coordinated to do it without spilling; Only God knows how I'd mess up transferring the chips. Never mind, I'm going to try it because I simply can't (or won't) afford Canon inks.
I'm still investigating and am hot on the trail of some other possibilities, but as it's Sunday (wish I were in Oz today!) that must wait until tomorrow.
'Plumber's Goop' will put the whole assembly back together again, perfectly and permanently. You will probably have to glue the inside hose to its connector first, then the outer hose, and finally coat the whole (external) area to make a leakproof seal.
I use it a lot. Got some capabilities that PSE does not. And right now it's (I think) 46 bux, which means 7 is coming out any day.
I use it a lot. Got some capabilities that PSE does not. And right now it's (I think) 46 bux, which means 7 is coming out any day.
I have an earlier model and it has been WONderful. It's still working perfectlyeven though I use remanufactured ink cartridges exclusively. Like an earlier post, I am in love with camera gear and therefor couldn't stand passing up a new one for 99 bux, especially when you get a 50 pack of very nice 13x19 luster paper free. That makes the whole package Canon's present to us all.
I am 81, and am just now (after many opportunities) offering my opinion on the subject: There is no such thing as an image made with a digital camera which has not been post-processed. Inside the camera is a computer which sets every parameter of what comes out of the sensor according to what either ole Chuck Canon or its owner has told it to. This conglomeration of decisions made by the camera's processor is what you modify when you apply Adelaide Adobe's ideas after uploading it.