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Mar 5, 2015 12:35:35   #
Rongnongno wrote:
I am well aware of what these charts are, I mentioned it.

They can be used regardless of what you say in order to check the various methods of sharpening as they will show the destruction taking place.

As I typed: use them to test your sharpening skills/wokflow.


Well put. I used 1954 USAF lens test charts when I first saw the sharpening tool in my camera's software program. Not comprehensive, but educational.
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Mar 5, 2015 12:27:15   #
GoldenOne wrote:
I am wanting to purchase a new camera for MACRO use. I photograph Mineral Specimens. I had a Fuji S7000 that ceased functioning. Want to upgrade. I am not a pro but need good quality for best results.


What is the end use of your pictures? For the web, gallery prints, or what? (It makes a big difference in determining which cameras would be suitable.)
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Mar 5, 2015 12:22:25   #
pchoudhury wrote:
Thanks for the feedback . There were situations where I felt a fast lens in low light would have been great. Such inside a church .


In your original post, you said for landscape use. Photography inside a church is a bit different. Hard to recommend anything until you make up our minds! :)
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Mar 5, 2015 10:54:44   #
1Georgie wrote:
ive always been interested in fine art, just haven't been able to find much information on it beside you tube. Does anyone knows of any books that you can recommend on this topic?

Thank you


I cannot recommend any books, but must say, the more time you spend reading what others have done, the less time you will have to do your own. (And the less likely you'll develop your own style.)
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Mar 5, 2015 10:14:20   #
Apaflo wrote:
I assume an interest in making the chart as useful as possible. At present it shows that sharpening tools have an effect, but it is just one specific effect and it doesn't show when or if any given sharpen tool is appropriate. And since it basically only shows one effect it leaves the incorrect impression that different sharpening algorithms all have the same effect.

There are charts that show more. One chart that was not designed specifically to be used with sharpening tools, but that just happens to include most of what is needed, was designed by Norman Koren. There is discussion about the chart on his web page at

http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF5.html

The chart itself can be downloaded from this URL

http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/Lenstarg_lin_720.png

It is a PNG image, but of course can be converted to TIFF or even JPEG.

Watching how that image is changed by various sharpen tools is really educational! But unfortunately it does not show one thing your chart does, which is the variation with contrast along an edge. The original point was that your chart combined with something like this is very useful, while your chart alone in fact just causes people to be more confused because the effects they see on the chart are not what they see when they sharpen an image.

It is also true that those two charts together do leave out one other effect that would be easy to add and is essential for an educational tool. There should be a contrast gradient for an edge that runs at an angle from vertical, rather than just horizontally. The would show the effects of sharpening on the "jaggies".
I assume an interest in making the chart as useful... (show quote)


Thanks for those two links and your comments, Apaflo. You've cleared up some of the confusion I had from the original post. :thumbup:
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Mar 5, 2015 10:01:56   #
wrightwrjr wrote:
What good is a picture of a bunch of cardboard boxes?


:thumbup: Capital!!
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Mar 4, 2015 15:22:11   #
pchoudhury wrote:
I am considering buying Nikon AF-S 20mm f/1.8 lens for landscape photography ( my most interest). My camera is Nikon D800e . I will appreciate very much any of my fellow UUH members can share their experience with the pros and cons of this lens. I am looking forward to hear your expertise opinion.


This is an outstanding lens, of course, but I would question why you want f/1.8 for landscapes?

Edit: Here is a good article on the use of ultra-wide angle lenses:

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/how-to-use-ultra-wide-lenses.htm
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Mar 4, 2015 13:32:11   #
Brucej67 wrote:
In one word "wildlife". Take the scenario of eagles in a nest in a swamp say 500 yards away where you can see them but can't get to them. Don't know what you shoot, but it would seem to me that a 28-300mm would suit your purpose.


28-300? I was going to recommend an Instamatic!
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Mar 4, 2015 13:29:44   #
chilly wrote:
I have 2 months left on an extended warranty so I decided to send my Nikkor 18-200 mm lens to the Nikon repair center to get a cleaning, replace the zoom ring and focus ring. I get an email back stating that the lens unit, filter ring and the 2nd group tube had an impact damage. I asked what is exactly wrong with the 2nd group tube and their response was, "impact damage was found to the lens unit, filter ring and the 2nd group tube." I had called them back and ask again what is wrong with my tube and they said they will contact the repair center and email me back with the info. The response was, "the 2nd group tube has an impact damage, if you have any more question please contact us again." Naturally I did. Their response was "it is not covered under the warranty, it will cost approx. $290. The focusing mechanism it tight and grinding, the zoom rubber grip is also loose, if you have any more questions please contact us."
Well, it isn't sitting right with me. What should I do?
I have 2 months left on an extended warranty so I ... (show quote)


Since their first email told you what was wrong, what did you expect subsequent answers to the same question to be??
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Mar 4, 2015 13:12:17   #
O2Ra wrote:
Need help from the hoggers. I have a Nikon d7000 body with a nikkor 300mm f4 afs attached. I have done a focus calibration of lens to body on my tripod . With static pics on the tripod I'm getting great in focus pics. When I shoot some free hand pics of say squirrels or small birds the focus is missing. Usually front or back then sometimes nails it. I've been using 800 to 1600 shutter speed with low ISO and f/4 to f5. I calibrated my 180mm sigma macro in the same way take the same shots at f/2.8 to f/4 and get tack sharp shots. Oh that's with the vr off on the Sigma. Why inconsistent focus with the Nikon lens? I read such great reviews about this lens and now I have it I'm not really liking it compared to any of my Sigmas.
Need help from the hoggers. I have a Nikon d7000 b... (show quote)


" With static pics on the tripod I'm getting great in focus pics."
This would indicate that your handheld problems are NOT the fault of the lens.
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Mar 4, 2015 07:35:30   #
tommyf wrote:
OK, I am not a professional photographer. With that said, what are the decisions in choosing either format? Thanks for your input.


It's sort of like the difference between 35mm and 6 x 45 film formats.
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Mar 4, 2015 07:24:04   #
duck72 wrote:
I can't find the "emoticon" button on my camera.
Is it on the top, bottom, left, right, front or back? My camera is a good one. I like it. "Other People" use useless/inferior/inadequate equipment. Their photos suck. Just sayin' Too much Moire.


It sits atop the sensor. When you purchase the kit, it should include a jeweler's hammer and cape chisel to remove the pentaprism. It is accessible through the back as well, for which you will also need a miniature wire nipper.
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Mar 1, 2015 11:10:51   #
mffox wrote:
The 600-2600mm. I found it on EBay. Seller turns out to be 42nd. St. Photo, which also has a bad reputation.
mffox


While 42nd St. Photo is noted for their questionable business practices, you might be protected by purchasing through EBay. The following thread on a different lens, but of a similar type, will provide some idea of what may be expected with these extreme telephoto zooms. Besides a sturdy tripod (or a post cemented in the ground!), patience and practice are required prerequisites. Good luck. :)

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-206902-1.html
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Mar 1, 2015 06:42:36   #
Mogul wrote:
A true blessing, although I don't understand why anyone would reply to someone on his "ignore" list.


A true blessing would be if everyone on the forum were on this character's ignore list, and vice versa.
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Feb 28, 2015 13:05:53   #
rtcary wrote:
I have two convertible umbrellas, and my question is about fabrics used. Some people have suggested that a screen made of bed linen makes for a soft light, however the materials used in umbrellas is rather thin. Are there umbrellas with linen like fabric, and if there is, does it make a difference?

RT Cary


Wouldn't be much of a "shoot through" if the fabric were thick.!
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