Take your camera out back on a dark night. Switch on live view. Take a flashlight and illuminate an object. Viola, then use your magnification and focus the object. Turn off ,live view, and take your photo. If there is no illumination live view at night ,will view nothing.
I currently use a monopod with fold up feet. Supports 16 pounds. Will probably never use my tripod again.
Five years now would never go back.
Copperfly wrote:
I'm heading for Alaska next week and am hoping to get a chance to photograph the northern lights. I would like any tips for camera settings and/or lenses i to use to capture this phenomenon.
Thanks!
I believe the University of Anchorage has an app that will give you a notification , short notification, for a pending Aurora.
I would like to purchase this. See previous e mail address. thanks
Very interested. Live in the St Pete area. thomashughess@aol.com
The University of Alaska, Anchorage, has a phone app. that will notify you if there is any activity. You know there is no guarantee. You need super clear skies, December should do that for you, and no city or artificial light. Plenty of good google info on how to shoot.
5d mark III, very easy to use. great results
had it now for two years. love the features not one bit of trouble.
have a Pentax 67, with a 55mm, 105mm and a 200mm prime lens. Also have a Novaflex EF converter. Lenses will work on any of the Canon EF digital camera's. The shutter count on the Pentax camera would be less than 300. Condition excellent. Been in my camera closet since 90's.
Go big!! If you keep the computer for 5 yrs it will cost about 11 cents a day.
Upgraded to the PRO, much better features. Well worth the price differential.
agreed, that he spent hours, manipulating his negatives to achieve the dynamic ranges that he produced Today a Mark III can process three different HDR exposures, in camera, in about 10 seconds.
It won't effect the exposure, but will give you a truer read on what works better on your camera. On a telescopic lens, pick a subject at a considerable distance and autofocus, then switch to live view, hit 5x, and check, you will find yourself manually adjusting the focus, and then 10x for a final check. If I am looking for tack sharp, its always live view and manual focus. Then you don't have to worry about your lens re focusing if it's set on manual rather than auto.
try the same test on a subject 100 yds away and you will find your answer.