Many thanks . first person with a brain to answer ..Have posted this on a few sites and well ..." read the fing question " I dont want to be told the FTZ will work with any manual lens !!!!
When we had the Z demos a couple of years ago I took the Samyang 14mm along and it did not work . Sent the Z into lockdown. But things have moved on and if it will work via its lens chip then its a big tick towards getting a Z.
I know I can get a $40 dumb mount but would prefer the auto exposure mode.
I could change the chip to one from "Nikon Gear" which I am told works with FTZ.
Set your camera to take 2 shots per second and take two of everything ///this will avoid blinkers
Most of the advice you get here is not from wedding photographers because they will not tell you how to do it ..I have retired after 40 years so this is what to do.
Just use the 18-400. set at F8 , Aperture mode ,auto iso and tape up any dials that could get knocked. Change to P mode for the disco .You dont want to bother about the equipment just use the camera as a point and shoot.
If you have a flash in the shoe then when the flash is ON only shoot landscape or you will get side shadows ..crop later.
On the day you should remember you take photos with your mouth not the camera..you are in charge and say what to do , Dress like a professional. Have a list of who is there or write as shot list . You always build up groups around the B and G ..do brides family first ,then grooms family , then friends so they can go to the bar . Then do the arty stuff with the B /g and bridesmaids etc . For the service stand at the front on the right as you look down the aisle. you can look at my website www.1and1photography.co.uk you can use biden@hotmail.com to get into the client area and look at Rob and Joe on the top line for guidance.
In the one by the fence the hands are a mess Always minimize hands by putting them over each other or using the flowers
I never said this would cure the problem just a comment on what I do ..learn to read.
Superglue all your card switches into place when you buy the card
ie shutter stock where you supply the photos and people view and buy.
Well looking for something to do in this Covid/no wedding senario . Anybody tried it ?
I did a shot of a test chart and it looked good. But as I only shoot at F8 I am not too worried. I turned a pile of scrap into something I can trade in for twice what I paid for it so not too bothered. Of course every impact damaged camera will be different but if you own it and it wont work then its worth a go if you have the manual dexterity.
QUOTE..I think I gave him the idea.
As I did the repair over a week ago I doubt it
PLEASE DONT PUT ANY MORE POSTS HERE ..GO TO THE SOLUTION POST
"How to repair a d800 with massive back focus and cracked chassis "
When you have moved the module about 2 turns you fit a lens with known FFA .set the fine focus adjust to the known value for that lens on the menu and then re test . The scale is the scale on the chart you use to check the focus adjust..you could use a ruler tilted at about 40 degrees. No good using a wide lens you need something 70-200mm, If you are in the UK you can send your D800 and I will do it for you.
Have put in a new post with all the details on ..go find
I just bought a D800 with large back focus issue ( about +40)for about $280 . It takes about 30 min to fix and re align. You need a small cross head screwdriver and a 1/16 or 1.5mm allen key.
Remove the rubber pad from the bottom ..it will go back fine. Stick it on a window so it does not pick up dust.
Remove 7 screws holding the bottom ,Not the 4 near the boss the other 4 (different lengths) and the three around and inside the battery door. The bottom plate will just lift off real easy. Beware the yellow battery retaining latch, if it comes off you will have a pig of a job to get it and the spring back.
If the chassis is cracked it will be on the LHS (viewed from back) at the front of the camera where it bends down . Mine was not cracked so the frame must have been bent.
If the frame is cracked then stabilize the crack with some epoxy but turn the camera the right way up while it sets as if you get any dripping inside you is buggered.
On the front edge of the camera you will see a cutout and also in the circuit board. down inside at 45 degrees are two shiny hex head screws. These are the adjusters for the focus module.
Take a lens that you know the fine focus setting for ,preferably 70mm + .I used a 24-85 which I know needs +2 and I used it at 85mm . Set the backfocus in the menu to +2 or whatever your lens needs.
If you are backfocusing turn each of the adjusters clockwise .I suggest two turns to start with. Then re fit the bottom or you cannot get the battery to stay in ..you only need a couple of screws to hold the base plate and check the back focus with an angled chart in the normal way.
The focus point should be on the scale .use small movements of the adjuster clock or anti clock to get it to zero. You can use any lens from any Nikon provided you know the fine focus adjust figure .the figure is the same when fitted to any camera.
Job done refit the back and don't use the threaded boss again. 30 min if you don't loose the latch spring.
Will try and get some photos tomorrow as I have to re glue the main grip rubber and its best with the base plate off.