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Posts for: OldNotMold
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Aug 12, 2015 11:27:06   #
Bob, is there a filter or effect or other means to do similar thing in Photoshop CC as well? Or is Fotosketcher the only way to accomplish the splintered/edge effect? Just wondering since I am a novice with PS. I use a Mac. Thanks.
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Jul 14, 2015 14:24:02   #
imagemeister wrote:
I use a macro slider between the QR and tripod collar to quickly make balance adjustments on the fly. This is imperative for the new 150-600's !


Which macro slider do you use, manufacturer and model number? Thanks.
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Jul 6, 2015 14:54:34   #
Chuck_893 wrote:
I got this request as a PM but it occurs to me that maybe somebody else wants to know what I did.

OldNotMold wrote:
Chuck, can you describe the techniques you used to isolate the statue "Forward" from the background in your post on July 5? I'm just learning PS and would appreciate at least a high level synopsis. I don't want you to spend a lot of time creating an instructional video or anything too time consuming, just list steps and tools used and any other additional "notes" that might make process clearer. I understand that in some areas of the photo it would be fairly easy to isolate the desired part from background (good contrast between the two regions). But in other parts of the pic, the difference in contrast or density or ??? might be more problematic. I appreciate your help....
Chuck, can you describe the techniques you used t... (show quote)

I am using Photoshop Elements 11. I think this will work with Photoshop or almost any of the Elements, esp. the later versions. When making a separation like this, I use a variety of selection tools. In this case I started on the statue and its plinth (pedestal, whatever :lol: ) with the Quick Selection Tool to make a fairly quick and dirty overall selection. I love this tool because it quickly snaps to the edges of a selection, but not perfectly. OldNotMold, you are absolutely correct; unless there is strong contrast the Quick Selection is apt to get either too much or too little. So you have to start the (frankly rather) tedious process of finishing out the selection. I use all three selection tools as needed. I rarely use the lassos or marquee tools. I think what I do is faster. Personal preference.

When refining I like to work the Selection Brush with the image at at least 100%, or larger, whatever it takes to get the best selection I can (it honestly takes a lot of patience, which I am lucky to have, having spent years hand-retouching negatives). I keep my selection brush hardness about 85%. I work in selection mode rather than mask mode, but it’s purely a personal preference. I usually keep the brush in ADD mode, but when I need to subtract I can just press the OPTION (ALT on a PC) key and the tool instantly switches to subtract. If I make a mistake I usually just back up in History. I go around the entire edge of the selection to refine it. It's tedious.

I will switch back and forth from selection brush to quick selection and even use the Magic Wand Tool, usually at a tolerance of 5 to 10% and contiguous only. That tool is really good in very tiny areas. I change my brush sizes as needed, using the bracket keys. the [ bracket makes the tool smaller; the ] bracket makes it larger, all very quickly.

I usually don’t use any of the marquee tools. I should say that I do all this with a mouse, not a tablet. I’ve often thought that I would like a tablet, but I don’t care much for the prices. :lol:

When I have made the best selection I can I will then Refine Edge, available in the Quick Selection or Magic Wand tools. I think I’m (as usual) getting too long-winded, but I do have specific presets I use with that. There is a tool within the tool that allows for refining very fine detail, such as around hair or trees. I've been watching tutorials on how to use the thing, which is how I got into this mess in the first place. :lol:

After that I made a gradient adjustment layer and put in that gray thingy, but several folks suggested that was pretty blaaaah (they're right) so I went back to discover that (1) I forgot to save my selection :oops: and (2) I apparently cannot turn the existing mask into something I can use for something else. :evil: So I had to reselect the whole thing (as described), and then I started fooling around with other backgrounds and just using the Move Tool to drag and drop Forward into other pictures (great fun!). :lol:

I hope this helps. I am not and never will be an “expert” at anything. I hope I know what I don’t know. I’m here to learn stuff, but if I can help I will! :D :thumbup:
I got this request as a PM but it occurs to me tha... (show quote)


Thanks, Chuck... helpful... understand that it is sometimes a painstaking process to do all of the detail especially at the edges of some images. I always find it curious that typical commercial instructional material almost always picks an image where there is very good and almost complete separation of desired and undesired parts or an image from a contrast or other characteristic that makes edge detection easy. Of course, then it is a straightforward process. I suppose that is OK for first cut instruction set, but it does hide the fact that it is NOT the usual situation. Thanks again for taking the time to show your process... agrees with my limited experience.
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Jul 5, 2015 09:11:43   #
Removed.
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Jun 27, 2015 08:56:48   #
cmc65 wrote:
OMG OMG Our prayers have been answered. You are well again and back with us.Of course your health is the MOST important thing, but you have been truly missed here. Welcome home.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


I can only echo all of the encouragements already posted. You have always been and will continue to be one of the most sought after contributors here. You are a true asset for all of us lesser folks. Good luck with your health issues and enjoy your life. And I agree that ONLY constructive criticism should shared. Let those who would dim the light be silenced!
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Jun 2, 2015 11:40:57   #
DOOK wrote:
D7100/Tokina 12-24mm.

This is a lagoon at Red Cliff. It is connected to the ocean only at 'king' tides, which is enough to keep it topped up. The inlet, or bar, can be seen in the top right corner in #1. I arrived there just before sundown & the conditions were beautiful & calm. #3 was the last photo taken for the day. Please download for a better view.


This may be a dumb question, but... After downloading the first two of your images, the usual EXIF data is available for them, exposure conditions, etc. For the third picture, however, only the image dimensions show up. Is this something that you did intentionally to limit the amount of data available, or did you change the selection type for uploading photo or ?? I'm curious because I often like to look at the EXIF data to see what conditions/settings were used to capture the image for my own edification. Thanks.
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May 24, 2015 13:26:32   #
Thanks, Wessojpeg. These are great...just what I was looking for...nice home by the way. I wanted a simpler camera with good capabilities to use when I didn't want to lug around the bigger dslr. The Nikon P900 looks very good, but it's currently 3x the price of the refurb sx50hs. I ordered the refurb sx50hs. It was too good a deal to pass up. Thanks again.
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May 24, 2015 09:48:01   #
WessoJPEG wrote:
Thanks Laura for Canons Web Site, Just got my SX50 refurbished and did a walk around the house. I am amazed by this camera, just had to post some pictures. These are right out of the camera.
Dont look like i'll be lugging the Nikon D7000 around any more.


Like your pix...nice. But most pix I see from this camera are outdoor pix...nothing wrong with that, of course. I'm wondering, though, how good it is for indoor shots, that is, where there is not as much light. I know it's small sensor will be limiting here, but do you or anyone else have any indoor shots that would show how it does under those conditions? Thanks in advance to all. It's hard to beat the current price even if it were used only outdoors.
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May 2, 2015 10:03:43   #
Dan Copeland wrote:
I used
www.dslrcontroller.com

on their main page is a link to the setup

their are 2 version of the TP link make sure you use the correct one.


How does the TP link connect to the camera? Will it work with older canons such as the 60D? Dumb questions...I know.
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Apr 8, 2015 08:36:01   #
MT Shooter wrote:
Certainly after hand holding that hefty lens for awhile I am sure he will be checking into them.
BTW, I just posted some comparison pics of the Tamron vs. the Sigma "C" lens, if you are interested.


Showing my ignorance (nothing new there), but where do I go to see MT's post of the comparison?

MT, I would also ask if you will do a fuller comparison of the two Sigma's and the Tamron equivalent 150-600's?
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Apr 6, 2015 09:06:40   #
Dngallagher wrote:
The name Creative Cloud gives the impression that all storage, work and programs are "in the cloud", but far from it.

When you subscribe, the software you want is downloaded and installed on your computer just like when purchased from a store on disk.

Your images are stored where ever you want them stored, and when you wish to edit an image, you load the editing software from your disk and work on your images, just like always.

The difference is the licensing. A Creative Cloud subscription means you are leasing the software, and the software will need to check in with Adobe to verify that your subscription has not lapsed. This should be transparent to you, but happens every 30 days or so.

I have used the Photographer's package, 10.00 a month, Lightroom & Photoshop - can't beat the price, and you get every update & upgrade at no cost other then your normal subscription rate.

I am always connected to the internet BTW, so never had a licensing issue.
The name Creative Cloud gives the impression that ... (show quote)


Can the software be used on two computers at the same time, a desktop and laptop for example? I understand that the library (in LR, for example) would be difficult to manage unless one transported it from one to the other, etc., etc. I was just wondering if the cloud subscription offered the possibility of multiple computers for one subscription like some other software. I'm not looking to cheat Adobe here... just wondering. There might be some cases (extensive traveling, for example) where one might want to do some LR adjustments on pictures on laptop while away from one's desktop and then go back to desktop once home. LR mobile (never used it) is limited, I believe, and not all that useful? Thanks in advance for your replies... much appreciated.
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Mar 23, 2015 10:59:43   #
ClaudiaA wrote:
This is for both Android and IOS http://dslrdashboard.info/introduction/


Thank you, ClaudiaA. I will look at the manual and consider going this way... saves lots of $$.
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Mar 23, 2015 10:52:58   #
Gene51 wrote:
Probably the TP-MR3040.


I've read about this on UHH a number of times, including the link to the setup that you (Gene) posted some time ago. It is a cheaper way to go compared to the Camranger unit ($300+) for sure. But I have an Apple iPad. Is there software/firmware that would allow it to be used with Apple tablets as opposed to an Android unit? I know that the Camranger can be used with either format, just looking for a cheaper alternative. Thanks in advance. I've learned a lot from all of you folks.
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Mar 1, 2015 12:04:06   #
SonnyE wrote:
I chose a Sirui Carbon Fiber monopod for me.
One of my "criteria" was that is be very compact for travel.

To that I also bought a ball head. But now wish I had gotten a tilt head.



I have never used a crows foot monopod. But I would question one's stability on any uneven ground. If it could be single point, or crows foot (and some are), that might actually be ideal.

I also got a head to hold a Smarter-than-me-phone.

I prefer to have my camera on a sling, and mount it to the monopod to shoot. Then dismount it to walk.
I find the action of walking with the camera on the stick tends to jar the camera more than I care for.

But a monopod is a great accessory. ;)
I chose a url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0... (show quote)


Why would you prefer a tilt head over a ball head for your monopod? I can guess a couple reasons but thought I would ask. Thanks.
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Nov 28, 2014 13:05:10   #
haroldross wrote:
The 32GB memory cards are sufficient- not too large and not too small.

The 7D MK II is a 'specialty' camera. It is designed for sports and wildlife photography. It has a very rugged build and an advanced auto focus system. The Canon 70D or Nikon 7100 may do everything you need and more. Either of these cameras will be a considerable upgrade to what you currently have.

What 'limitations' are you refering to? This would be important in your decision.


You state that the 7DII is a specialty camera. I understand that it is a good choice for faster moving targets, birds in flight, action sports, etc. and the reasons for that distinction. But does that mean that it isn't a good choice for other things like landscapes and nature and macro? Sure, FF camera might be better for latter, but again, what exactly do you mean by specialty camera? I'm considering the 7DII as well down the road a bit... just wondering if you could expand on your statement. I am interested in motion things as well as scenery, so... but not FF budget I'm afraid.
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