You're right. and is the name page used for both the numbered face or the sheet of paper (typed on both sides).
Oh well, if the worm wasn't strong enough to pull them off the shelf and read them on the floor, then he only ate through 900 Pages or 450 sheets.

999. The worm stopped and read the last page because he was full.

Caution... All drives will fail so its good you will back it up with 2.
I have had several SSD drives fail. I purchased on low cost. I read a pro who claims he has installed several hundred with no failures by buying top business models.
I have had many platter spinning drives fail. I just lost a 5TB Samsung USB. I opened the case and the bare drive is Seagate. I have also had many Seagate 2 TB to 5 TB fail. If they don't click with mechanical failures, then the MFT (index table) is corrupted and windows wants to format it which then looses everything. Same problem if it is a Raid setup, since the software corruption affects all drives. In the 90s the Seagate Barracuda was $2,000 for 9 GB and had a good reputation for speed. I've not had such good luck with the name in this century. Best advice is to find reports by pros who follow the failure rate over several years.

Since YouTube videos are easier on my eyes than manuals...
Here are a few reasons the HDR Mode could be Grayed Out.

in first 30 seconds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3MQajA7Bjw (NO RAW)

at 1min 30sec
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ON2UuRkbGv0 (3 Reasons for Grayed Out. RAW, Bulb or Movie Video Modes)

Photomatix, as someone recommended, is a great choice and an easy way to see what some presets can do as a starting point. The Trial however has a watermark I believe which may not meet your needs. I have not been satisfied with other cameras making the HDR choice, unless it can also save the original AEB shots. Since Memory cards are now so large and cheap, I would suggest setting your 70D to AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing). Sometimes I find that, one of the bracketed shots has a better exposure even if I don't want to combine them as an HDR. I added Magic Lantern firmware to my 60D because it could only bracket 3 shots, and I believe the 80D is limited to the same 3 Exposures. 3 is plenty in 90% of my cases unless the light range is very wide. HDR wasn't even an option with the older 60D, and AEB probably isn't an option in Auto Mode, so make sure you are in Manual or better "A" Aperture Priority, or HDR won't be an option.

What does the acronym "WTH" mean? I'm more of a video guy and have a lot to learn about still photography.

What does the acronym "WTH" mean? I'm more of a video guy and have a lot to learn about still photography.

BEWARE, that on YouTube there are major scams with lies and false videos selling a monocular for around $69. They show zoomed footage, thought they sell a fixed zoom product. They mention built for military, show footage from a Nikon P900 and there are other YouTube videos exposing all the other parts of the false advertising. I hope you find a legit product.

I find it humorous that while we all want to prevent flares, some companies are selling us post-filters and video layers that add these "effects" or light-leaks to our media. I guess it is no different than adding grain and scratches to video for the "film look".

Everyone is talking about the oxide layer being protected between 2 polycarbonate plastic layers with a chance of scratching. My experience of failure has been mostly related to humidity where I see the rot occurring starting at the outside or inside edges. Think of trying to lick the cream out of an Oreo without biting the wafers.

While I have used similar Analog to USB capture devices (mostly Analog to CamCorders to Firewire DV), I believe the USB devices are fine. (I have used the USB generic and Pinnacle versions). Newer computers don't have the 1394 Firewire anymore.

I disagree with the final output being DVD however. If you leave it as digital media that is fine and you will have to back it up (on drives) like any digital media files. Home-burned DVDs don't last forever as originally promised and I have had dozens rot over the past 25 years. Commercial glass master DVDs are different, and MO technology may last longer.

VHS to DVD used to be common. I doubt that it is now. When a VHS tape rots, usually a few seconds are bad. When a CD or DVD rots, they whole disc is often ruined. Kind of like a drive that can't be seen anymore.

I'm referring to PPRO 1.0 - CS6 on Windows... from memory.

1. When you launch the program and it can't fine the media, it will interrogate you... "Where is the File xyz.avi" etc? This is the first time you can point each media type to a new folder location. Only do it once per media type (wav, avi, bmp, etc.). If it's working smart it will find all the others. If not, tell it to forget the rest and just load the program. Save the project to a unique name and reload the same project. This time it may load all the similar media types.

2. The other place you can "Point an item in a virtual BIN to a new folder location is by right clicking on any bin file and selecting "LINK MEDIA". Any unlinked lost media should have a different icon (no speaker over a film strip) The Media type column will show "OFFLINE". It is very common to need to do this when changing external drives or swapping low-rez proxies for Hi-rez footage.

For 20 years, in southern California, I have looked for affordable ways to add additional un-manned video inputs to live webcast video mixers like Tricasters or Black Magic Design mixers. My workflow was 3 manned pro camcorders into a mixer which always had more inputs.

Possibilities were DSLRs, USB Webcams, Security Pan/Tilt cams, Consumer Camcorders, etc.

Some DSLRs dummy down the HDMI signal to less than standard size.
Many DSLRs leave a status overlay on the HDMI (not clean)
Elegato is a good quality hardware conversion box, but more expensive than a good USB WebCam. Other external boxes are from companies like Roxio, Hauppauge, AverMedia, AGPTEK, etc
Internal HDMI PCI cards are from Black Magic, AverMedia, etc.
Research “HDMI Capture Cards”
Research “Gaming Capture Cards” and open source addons to OBS mixer.
Research “WebCam Emulators” Sometimes you want to have a DSLR HDMI signal to be recognized by a webcast or teleconference software like Zoom. A software Emulation program like ManyCam was a workaround. Zoom’s recent security updates defeated the ability to see ManyCam, so use an older version prior to April 2020.

I went to the Android Play Store and the reviews are worth reading if testing the PRO version. Seems it hasn't been updated in a couple years. Play indicated I had already installed the free lite version, which must have been on an earlier phone a few years ago.

If it works for you, the features are great. There is also an app called "Open Camera" which I haven't tested, but is currently updated.

Open Camera refers to RAW in this way... "Support for Camera2 API"... so if your phone is compatible, you might get the feature.

"* Support for Camera2 API: manual focus distance (with optional focus assist); manual ISO; manual exposure time; manual white balance temperature; burst mode; RAW (DNG) files; slow motion video."

I don't know if FV-5 relies on the phone having Camera2 API, but here is a link explaining...
https://appuals.com/enable-camera2-api-shoot-raw-android/
"Only a handful of premium devices have full Camera2 API support"

Assuming he handles beak-sync in post.