Thanks, le boecere for your insight.

I have the kit 17-55mm f/2.8-f/4 and wondering if the 27 pancake would be a good fit for street photography. Or the larger 23mm f/2.

Thanks, Richard

"MENU/OK until lock symbol" does not work on my x-e3 or I am doing something wrong.

The Adobe Lens Profile Downloader (free from Adobe) will list all the profiles available for your camera and lens that may not be available for your combination in LR(you are free to download them). There may be some jpg profiles that some people have uploaded for your combination. As has been pointed out, some camera/lens combinations have automatic in-camera corrections. LR will also automatically apply a lens correction if it has one and therefore does not show one in the list; jpgs are rarely included. It will say it has applied one in this case. This has been my experience.

As an aside:
As for my Fuji camera, I use "X-LR : Automatically apply Fujifilm exif data in Lightroom"
at: http://lightroomsolutions.com/jb-xlr/
for my Fuji photos. It still applies the Adobe profiles unless you modify the options.

Hope this helps.

Richard

Yes, this exactly how I started on my Canon Dial 35 in the Navy and my Pentax MX.

At what height is a UV filter of value to the photo? 10,000 ft?

Some tripods, like my MeFoto, can convert to a monopod.

I notice that some museums do not allow photos, cell phone or otherwise, in venues they are showing that they do not own. Many use cell phones and then the monitor comes up to say 'no photos please". But if the museum owns the artwork, photos or paintings, it seems that in some cases it is alright to snap a cell phone photo. Recent vacations to Europe and visiting churches do not allow tripods (some allow monopods) or flash and most of the time, "no photos". But if no one is watching, some visitor will invariably take out a cell phone to snap a quick photo. You also need a fast lens to capture nice detail inside a dark church.

I have the BC700 with two contacts on the neg end for either AA or AAA. Haven't tried AAA yet as I mostly use the Eneloop Pro 2450 AAs.

I have found that Fuji cameras (I have an X-E3) allow for a great number of in camera adjustments for jpg photos such that the resultant photo looks as great as when I apply mods to the raw file; at least in the 90% area. I still shoot raw+ jpg as I do not worry about disk capacity or lack of sd cards. That said, I still at times need to use the raw file to get a result I feel is better. Example is small adjustmens with curves.

So, to get away from the raw problem, check the camera manual to see what in-camera adjustments to the jpg file can be made. Also remember, the adjustments made in camera are 'baked-in' to a jpg file. Yes, more adjustments can be made on the jpg file, but you do not have the range of a raw file.

I know that the x-e3 will connect to the phone and send the GPS cords to the camera.

So, along the same line of thought, which is best? Aurora HDR 2018, Photoshop HDR merge, or Lightroom HDR merge?

A simply beautiful shot. Beats my 5-bridges shot for a moving boat with my Pentax MX!

So, always use a lens cap when shooting into the Sun? (tongue in cheek!)

I have never had a problem when I was shooting in low light with my Pentax and the 17-55. And I take the battery down to one bar before changing. Don't know the percentage (20-25%?). And it might not go down evenly.