As my Southern shipmates back in the day would say, "You are stepping in quicksand."

One man's mere nudity may become another's pornography.

In turn, as we know, sexual hysteria enters the equation. Puritanism raises its old head again forcing the discussion into the arena of morality as if the only proper forum to evaluate a matter such as nudity. The force of emotionalism may crowd out any rational thought process.

This slippery slope may result in censorship to satisfy the cry of the moralists. A shade over free expression descends. Etc.

Warning for Nikon users. Nikon's provide settable bracketing of course. If you fail to finish a bracket sequence and turn off the camera, it inexplicably without warning and unpredictably as to amount, changes exposure compensation (the + or minus). This stays "adjusted" until you put it back to zero or whatever value you wish. Happened to me on D500, D750 and D850. Solution is to be sure you finish a bracket sequence and also check the compensation level every time you turn on the camera. Annoying IMO.

Reading, watching videos, and understanding that both shutter speed & manual EV will alter exposure; and in the process of learning the effects of both; coupled with learning the best way to use my new D7200; attempting to expand my learning curve in a simplistic manner and learn to make changes by muscle memory rather than by having to think about it is the reason for my question. Your method seems easy enough, although I guess that I'm looking for a "one size fits all" approach when dealing with one set of circumstances. I'm not sure if my reasoning makes sense or not, or if I'm actually over thinking it and creating more of a problem rather than a solution.

A good example that comes to mind are the images that I took a week or so back of the 1958 Plymouth Savoy, (Mystery Car), that I included in a previous post. I had the shutter speed set @ 250 & ISO @ 100, if I remember correctly, and was curious if they would have turned out better if I had used a slower shutter speed and/or had added EV, or higher ISO. Below is one of the images with no editing.

Arrrrgggghhhhhh!!! Too many buttons on these cameras.........

A few weeks back I posted a problem that I was having with my fumbling and bumbling fingers moving the switches on my Nikon 70-200mm lens during the course of shooting action shots at a gym competition. I frequently moved the lens barrel settings from A/M to M, turned off the VR, and anything else I could hit with my fingers. A couple of you mentioned rubber bands and I got a pack of these Pro Slip-on Grips wide rubber bands from B&H and they work like a charm. After I slipped the blue one around the lens settings, no more accidental changes. Hooray---that problem was solved.....

Now I have another problem, again with fingers that stray. After shooting so many sessions with my D3s, I went back to my D750 for some indoor party and Christmas sessions. I can't tell you how many times I have hit the Bracket button or the Flash button accidentally. I can tell that the bracketing is on because I start getting images that have incorrect exposures, some shutter delays, etc all due to the bracketing getting turned on. When I shoot, I am constantly turning my camera from horizontal to vertical and my hands and fingers wander all over the camera body as I capture continuous action and subject movements---I don't have time to look at the camera LCD screens to verify settings before each shot; otherwise that fleeting moment has passed. Because I shoot in manual, sometimes I find that my shutter speed setting has moved also---sigh...... I am ready to get a tube of super glue and fix this problem. With all of this automation and buttons everywhere, why can't the manufacturers put a disable function in the menus so that you can disable some of these buttons? I especially would like to turn off or remove the bracket function.

Vent vent vent.....

I new here so please don't flame me for asking a question that has already been asked many times. I did try searching but only came up with threads that were old with the newest being from 2013. I would love to learn and use lightroom and photoshop but for the amount that I would use the software I can't see paying $120 a year for it and I don't want another monthly bill. My current cameras are a Nikon d3400 and an Olympus TG-5. The Nikon is used on land and the TG is really only used underwater which is where most of my photography takes place (at this point in time). I have been using the Olympus software with the TG as I have not found any free or trial software that plays well with the RAW files from this camera. I'm not sure if there is much of an underwater crowd here but RAW is huge in underwater photography as you lose the colors of the spectrum as you go deeper, so the W/B eyedropper tool is like magic. I have not tried to ask this question in the big underwater forum as you are not worthy unless you have at least $10K into your setup, so I pretty much stay clear of that place. Here are a couple of photos from my last trip to Bonaire.

I have been shooting photography for 60 years. It was very important to me at one time. Now I have two other more costly hobbies. It is imperative that Photography falls to the bottom of the purse string list, and also generates gear sales income.

So, I am prone to buy and sell gear, and I am prone to use my own gear at budget prices, but still drag as much image quality without massive expenditures on gear. And I dislike Post Processing, so minimal effort there because I enjoy my other hobbies so much more. Sending more than a nominal amount for photo equipment and post processing would seriously diminish my enjoyment. I should also mention that using film also adds to my enjoyment. I will admit that trying to talk digihead back into film is a losing battle in spite of cost considerations.

So for those conscious of budget. here is a recent mirrorless digital setup with budget in mind. Criteria are"

small late mirrorless From Fujifilm....Either X trans or Bayer sensor. Little noticeable difference no matter who you talk to.
25 Mp image. I was shooting Olympus 4:3 until Fuji broke through to 24MP.
Good glass in AF or MF (as in Zeiss or similar)
Focus Peaking
Top out at $500.

Alternative a system with good proprietary AF quality glass, ie. a good name.

Basic system comes in at

Fairly new Fujifilm X-A3 bayer sensor (recent upgrade by Fuji mirrorless to 24MP) This one $185 faux rangefinder w/ focus peaking and 100 shutter count-Nearly new.
Adapter M42 thread to Fuji X $8.00
Aus Jena (ziess) Panacolor 50mm F1.8 Thread Mount $95 manual focus

64 GB SD card $30.

Total $318.00 A good price for a 24Mp high quality smallmirrorless outfit.

My two favorite Zooms If I were to break budget barriers.

Fuji 18-55 f2.8 kit (can be found for $250 often on eBay sometimes less
Fuji XC 50-230mm Can be found $200 and up... good lens for all around long zoom

Now here is a pic of Santa at lunch today. Used the kit outlined and focus peeking ISO 1200.

Click Download.... then click on the download image.