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Posts for: Kozan
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Feb 22, 2019 20:36:41   #
orrie smith wrote:
Art is in the eyes of the beholder, no need to be rude.


I think ricardo7 is just being honest.

I get sick of the benign comments on here about peoples' terrible pictures. People say "Great job" "I like it", etc. When they are really talking about a terrible shot. It doesn't do anybody any good to give these good comments on crappy pictures. It just makes them think they are good photographers when they are really pathetic.

I think being honest is really what we need here, instead of stroking everyone's ego.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:26:10   #
dione961 wrote:
Hi
I posted on this yesterday but my post may have been confusing - it's a very complicated area for me (sorry I don't know how to paste the topic link in here).

I'm travelling by sailboat (sailed Australia via Sth & Nth Pacific Japan & Aleutian Islands to Alaska & soon will be heading back via more of Alaska, BC, Hawaii, etc.)

I've had stories published (with Nikon 1 pics) but only in Yacht Club magazines. I need better photos for some sailing & travel magazines interested in the voyage & the reason for it. So I now have a D7200 but no telephoto lens.

There will be amazing wildlife up in the Alaska section, but a sailboat also cannot often get close to wildlife & there can often be poor light.

So I figure I need a telephoto lens. But which?

I'm small (& not a teenager) & would struggle with a heavy lens, especially on a moving sailboat.

I'm not a wealthy "yachtie" so for instance I could not afford the new Nikon 200-500 even if I could get one.

Aperture is a factor given the poor light conditions. Steve Perry advises to get in close / use a TC / don't crop, etc; but using a TC cuts light further, so.......

Used (unless a hogger has something for sale) is not ideal as I'm leaving the US soon, so re-furb or new.

I've read many many posts & articles on the topic, but it would be nuts to spend thousands without knowing what I'm doing & why.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how they might go in similar circumstances?

Regards, Dione, Seward, AK.
Hi br I posted on this yesterday but my post may h... (show quote)


Get the Tamron 70-200mm G2 lens. It's fantastic. Very Sharp. I use it on my Nikon D500 for baseball.
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Feb 22, 2019 20:22:27   #
Rongnongno wrote:
How can an 8 bit image be transformed into a 16 bit image and called 'raw'????

A raw file is a sensor capture with minimal processing.

A JPG is a (camera) processed image WITH lossy compression.

Sorry but this is another marketing ploy to get your $$$


Ron, just because you don't know how it's done does not mean it can't be done. I didn't believe one could capture a perfectly good television image from a snowy picture either. But with DSP, it's possible.
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Feb 22, 2019 13:38:12   #
bret314 wrote:
I have shutter release button on group P and the back button on single point focus. Do I need to disable the front button before the back button will work


No, you can have both buttons focusing. I have my shutter button disconnected from focusing because I didn't want to be tempted to go back to having it focus.
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Feb 15, 2019 09:52:47   #
Longshadow wrote:
How "professional"? I use Costco and am very pleased.


I use Nations Photo Lab. They frequently have sales on various size prints. When on sale a 16" x 20" is $7.00. They are great about remaking the print if you are not satisfied.

MPIX is also a very good lab. So is AdoramaPix. I usually download the ROES software and when I need something printed, just upload the image to them. Easy-peazy.

Kozan
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Feb 13, 2019 12:06:43   #
Greg Huntsinger wrote:
Lava Lake , south of Mt. Bachelor , West of Sunriver OR. this is the head waters of the Deschutes river.
f/10, 1/250 sec. , ISO 100,. , 47mm


I'm curious. Did you do this with one image in camera HDR or did you put 3 shots together in Photoshop, or did you just increase contrast and saturation?
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Feb 12, 2019 10:59:38   #
cmc4214 wrote:
Finally decided to buy a new D750 from B&H, ordered on Thursday evening, was shipped in two packages was supposed to be delivered Monday, it wasn't . Tracking says one package containing the spare battery was delivered, it WASN'T. (at least not to me) Tracking also says the other package was refused. It wasn't by me. Furthermore, tracking says it was refused in Pittsburgh, my address is NOT Pittsburgh
I called B&H and they say they can do nothing until it gets back to them, IF it gets back to them. I cannot find a number for FedEx
B&H also says they will refund my card when the camera gets back to them,but what about the package they say is delivered, I know of no way I can prove I did not receive it.
I also reviewed my order on B&H,s web site and the address IS correct
Finally decided to buy a new D750 from B&H, or... (show quote)


The problem is with the carrier, not B&H. Once it is in the carrier's hands, B&H, or any business has no control over what happens to your package. You will have to file a claim with FedEx.
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Feb 7, 2019 14:06:24   #
mtcoothaman wrote:
I have seen reference to "100 % crop " in various posts from time to time. To me that means 100% removal(!) of the photo but I am sure it does not. Can anyone please explain? Thanks


If you take a picture then display it on your camera's monitor, then push the + button repeatedly until you get the smallest little square that shows the cropped image, that's a 100% crop.

On my Nikon D850, I have set the middle button on the multi-selector to zoom in either 100% or 200%.
I'm pretty sure that is what 100% crop is referring to.
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Feb 5, 2019 09:19:14   #
cmaxi wrote:
I have been around cameras for many years buying, using and selling them. I have tried every trick in the book to get the old ones clean but, somehow, they never really looked "clean and new".
The Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is the most incredible thing I have ever found. You just dampen it, give it a couple of swipes over the areas you want to clean and those areas literally become like new. Of course, care must be taken to not get any liquids where they don't belong. I follow up with a clean microfiber cloth. This product leaves no residue I can detect. Works especially well on camera grips and lens rings that have turned whitish. I have used it on camera bodies and lenses. I would be hesitant to use it on genuine leather, but it works so well on synthetic surfaces you won't believe it.
I have been around cameras for many years buying, ... (show quote)


I just want to know how much you are getting paid to put out stuff like this.
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Feb 4, 2019 11:28:26   #
melueth wrote:
When i first went colorblind, ( ) i posted a B&W here and was told that it seemed flat . . . i'm tweaking things much more now, and i think i get the definition, but i'm still a little unsteady about it. Is there a good definition of flat as it applies to B&W photography, or is it more intuitive - you either 'get it' or you don't? Here's another that i recently drained the color out of. Thoughts?

Marylea


I would define FLAT as lacking in contrast. Usually you would want some black, some white, and some middle tones. It's just, in my opinion, a more pleasing photo.

Kozan
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Feb 2, 2019 10:12:19   #
Greer wrote:
I am a former deer hunter and have a ground blind from which I see many deer, foxes, bobcat, and beautiful birds. I have been an event/portrait photographer since 2012. With hunting behind me I have developed a desire to shoot wildlife/birds (pardon the pun) with my new D750. While driving I notice birds in flight and beside ponds. I long to get a 200-500 but have a question. The reviews are mostly great and this is the best I could possibly afford. However, some owners complain it’s too heavy to handhold. I am 62 years old and in decent health. Need opinion from those who own (have owned) this lens. Please help. Don’t want to make expensive mistake.
I am a former deer hunter and have a ground blind ... (show quote)


I'm 73 and I have this lens. In my opinion, it's not too heavy. I shot a high school baseball game with it last year, and it was fine. After about 3 hours of baseball shooting it is pretty heavy. The lens is also very sharp. I got some great, very sharp shots of the outfielder catching a fly ball (about 100 yards away) at a pro baseball game. I highly recommend this lens.

Now, for all day shooting, you definitely need a tripod or monopod.

Kozan
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Feb 1, 2019 09:01:33   #
junglejim1949 wrote:
I asked Canon why there was not a tripod collar included with their 70-200 f4, IS, II.

There answer was:
"We do have several versions of the EF 70-200mm lens as you may have noticed. The version you mentioned does not come with the Tripod Collar, while the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM does come with it."

This is because the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM is wider and weighs more than the EF 70-200mm f/4L. Its dimensions are 3.50 x 7.83" and it weighs 3.28 lb. In contrast, the EF 70-200mm f/4L comes in at 2.99 x 6.77" and weighs 1.55 lb.

"Our engineers concluded that a lens collar could offset the size and weight of the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM but that it was not necessary for the EF 70-200mm f/4L."
I asked Canon why there was not a tripod collar in... (show quote)


Actually, one needs to consider the weight of the camera vs. the weight of the lens. If the lens weighs less than the camera, you would not want a tripod collar. If the lens is heavier, then yes.

Think about the torque applied to the camera lens mount, not just the fact that you have a long lens. In the case of the EF 70-200mm f/4L, I don't believe I would want a tripod collar because the weight of that lens is 1.55lb and the Canon 5D Mk4 is 1.76 lb.

Kozan
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Jan 30, 2019 09:59:17   #
will47 wrote:
When are good times to consider using Auto ISO. I use a 7D Mark ll and mainly do landscapes, animals, birds, and I sometimes try BIF. Thanks.


For sports or anything where the light is changing, it's essential. The keeper rate really goes up when using Auto ISO. With landscape photography where you have time to look at the Histogram, you can set the ISO manual. Otherwise, use Auto ISO, even on Manual.

To answer the question, whenever the light is changing rapidly from shot to shot.
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Jan 21, 2019 20:46:22   #
sloscheider wrote:
When you get the above common sense changes to take place your next assignment is to get us Yanks to move on over to the metric system! I’ll support your political party, just say the word. It’s only the US, Burma and Liberia left to go metric...


As far as engineering goes, the US is already on the metric system. Electrical Engineering goes by the ISO standard.
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Jan 21, 2019 20:43:34   #
Timmers wrote:
I can easily answer your question with a simple response. There are two types of people in the world of photography, one group likes to talk about photography, while the other group wants to make photographs. I'm in the latter category, I make photographs.

F stops are quite simple, learn two neighboring f stops and you will have all f stops. Say f4 and f 5.6 as example. You then simply half or double either to reveal the other f stops. Of course one does not get anal about being 'precise' (double 5.6, that is 5.6+5.6 =11.2, round to f 11). I know, BUT! There is no BUT in the field of practical photography, or just steal that cute phrase, "Just Do It!" We are NOT doing math, we are making images.

Shutter speeds are the same but simpler (along with imaging speed/sensitivity), basic doubling (just like ISO, or the old ASA) 1/2, 1/4. 1/8, 1/15 (Don't be anal, no 1/16).

Yes, you can make it complicated, and loose the image, or make the image and put the camera away and study the math. In the latter I will just wonder away because I'm not here to do math, I'm here to make photographs, that is why people keep thinking that I'm a photographer, silly fools that they are!

Go ahead and ask Bubble about it (he is the guy in the photograph).
I can easily answer your question with a simple re... (show quote)



"You then simply half or double either to reveal the other f stops. Of course one does not get anal about being 'precise' (double 5.6, that is 5.6+5.6 =11.2, round to f 11)."

That's fine if you want to jump 2 stops. But what if you want to go one stop up or down. You multiply or divide your F-stop by 1.4. F/4 times 1.4 is F/5.6.

Interesting way to look at a change of 2 F-stops, though.
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