I hear you and I hear them. If you keep asking different people one is bound to give you an answer you like sooner or later. No one can predict what mother nature has in store from minute to minute. I find myself watching the sunsets and so many times it looks like it's going to turn into a fantastic crimson artwork only to disolve into yet another, shall we say, challenging sunset. :thumbdown:
Other times it looks so boring :-( to start, only to explode into a breath taking, :thumbup: shutter-popping, :thumbup: to die for, :mrgreen: experience that I notice from the comfort of my Lazyboy chair and I kick myself. :twisted:
A good photographer is a patient photographer with well worn shoes. Regardless, good luck. :thumbup:
mdorn wrote:
Shouldn't "RAW" be in lower case? It's not an acronym, is it? :-)
Really Abetter Way :wink:
Glad I could help. Have a good Christmas.
A monitor and printer are two different output devices. To see true color on the monitor we calibrate our monitor to accurately represent true red as true red, true blue as true blue etc. (run into your local TV store and study all the TV's in a row, each one has slightly different shades of colors) Once this is acomplished we can then make more accurate post production edits that in most cases will translate well to any printer. Over time your monitor will slightly shift colors so you will need to recalibrate every so often. Most very high end print shops calibrate every day.
BUT, the printed result will only be an approximation of true color. If you really want true color on your prints then you will need to calibrate your printer for each given paper and ink combination. In other words if using Epson High Gloss paper with Epson ink then you will end up with one ICC profile. When you change either the paper or the ink you will need to recalibrate for the new combination. Yes, this applies to getting a new ink cartridge as each batch has ever so slightly different qualities. You could end up with quite a few profiles for your printer depending on your artistic abilities and your wallet.
You will need to decide just how accurate your results must be for your taste. As stated previously most people only calibrate their monitor and are willing to accept close results from the printer. Hope this clears up any confusion.
Each December I go through the years photos and create a DVD slide show of the years events. Using Lightroom and ProShow Producer make the job a snap (pun intended) When finished, I wrap it up and give to my wife for Christmas as she always complains that she never gets to see all the photos I take. She is very happy :-D and as we all know, a happy wife means a happy hubbie. :lol:
I also print on paper, fine art and canvas and put in local shows for sale and ooh la la's. :thumbup: I don't get rich but it does help pay for the habit... er I mean hobby.
Picdude wrote:
Jerry,
I use Pro Show producer which I assume is close in operation to Pro Show Gold. At the top right of my screen are three words: BUILD CREATE PUBLISH. With BUILD highlighted I clicked the "new" icon in the tool bar. New screen pops up where I choose Blank Show, fill in the title, set my spect Ration to 16:9 then clicked "Create" in bottom right-hand corner. I then chose 14 pictures to move into the slide show.
At this point I see my pictures each in it's own slide along the bottom of my screen. The pictures fill the slide top-to-bottom with a back margin on either side. If I click the play button at the botom of the preview box I see all my picures displayed as a slide show centered on my screen. My computer screen is NOT 16:9 so I have margins at top and bottom as well as side when I preview on my computer.
If you double-click your slide it should take you to a new window called 'Slide Options'. Half way down the left side is a box titled 'LAYERS' that should have your picture in it. Click on your picture and you should see where you can adjust your scaling to fit frame, fill frame, ect.; zoom your picture in the frame; position the picture in the frame and so on. This is also where you start choosing slide styles to make your picture do tricks. Look at top left, locate 'slide style' in the 'slide option' box and click on that. This will give you options to put motion in your slide, choose moving backgrounds, create picture montages and, well, you get the idea.
Jerry, br I use Pro Show producer which I assume i... (
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Forget the bells and whistles as you don't have that with Gold. But you do have the "fit to frame" option which is what you are looking for.
LR can make an MP4 or PDF file but lacks the panash of PSG.
Festina Lente wrote:
Loudbri wrote:
Hi gang I recently turned pro. I believe I'm reasonably proficient at shooting. Iam not edit savvy at all I need to know if I can fix peoples: zits, wrinkles and pale skin tone, also toddlers perpetually runny noses and forehead scrapes that they almost always show up with........ with lightroom...
Currently I send my stuff to a pro editor because people expect to look better than they do in person. I am hesitant to buy photoshop because I've heard it's hard to use and meant for more graphic art based image creation. I just don't want to find out that I can't make these corrections
Hi gang I recently turned pro. I believe I'm reaso... (
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Lightroom is the gold standard for managing and performing 95% of the alterations most professional photographers need in one industry standard, widely supported and very powerful program.
To do detailed editing and manipulation of specific elements in your photos, and special effects, layering, and composites, PhotoShop is the gold standard. But it can be difficult to use and master given the variety of tasks you may encounter and its vast array of options and commands. But anything that is easier to use will have some limitations.
For touching up "zits, wrinkles and pale skin tone, also toddlers perpetually runny noses and forehead scrapes" I would use a combination of Lightroom, Photoshop and Portrait Professional 10 (www.portraitprofessional.com, which is also a well integrated plug-in for Lightroom) depending on the task or your objective.
From what you described, I'd give a quick look at Portrait Professional 10. Like Lightroom, they have a free trial that you may download.
quote=Loudbri Hi gang I recently turned pro. I be... (
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I whole heartedly concur.
Go into the Library module, and use grid view "G" At the bottom of the grid you will see a tool bar. If you don't see it tap the "T" key to toggle it on and off. You will see, among other tools, the sort drop down and you can choose whatever sort method you wish. LR will remember this choice for further sessions until you change it. I think most LR users choose to sort by Capture time. Once sorted, all photos remain sorted regardless of the module you are in.
If you don' see the sort tool, slide on over to the far right of the tool bar and click the down arrow for a list of tools available for viewing.
Hope this gives you the insight you were looking for. :shock:
A good explanation of flash synch can be found here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPbxp6IdkyM
jerryc41 wrote:
big-guy wrote:
jerryc41 wrote:
birdpix wrote:
Jerry, you're always loosing something! "T" toggles that toolbar on and off and at the right end of it is a little triangle that if you click on it will allow you to choose which tools to show. That should fix it!
I'm trying not to lose my mind. So far, so good. Thanks for the tip. I'll try it tomorrow.
Your "T" tool bar is showing but....
The screen cap (thanks for that) shows you in the Develop module which does not have the sort tool. You need to get back to the Libray module, do your sort then go to the develop module.
As to losing your mind? Well, er um I forget.
quote=jerryc41 quote=birdpix Jerry, you're alway... (
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Yes, that did it. I hate it when I click on something, and that makes menus or something go away.
Speaking of going away, I see no way to minimize LR - no little boxes in the top left.
quote=big-guy quote=jerryc41 quote=birdpix Jerr... (
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I'll bet your in full screen mode. Try tapping the "F" key, it is a three way toggle for regular screen, almost full screen and really full screen. While we're at it you can try tapping the "L" key for lights out mode. Again a three way toggle, regular, almost dark screen and really dark screen. Makes an excellent way to preview photos without the interface, just the photo. Works great in conjunction with the full screen toggle.
jerryc41 wrote:
birdpix wrote:
Jerry, you're always loosing something! "T" toggles that toolbar on and off and at the right end of it is a little triangle that if you click on it will allow you to choose which tools to show. That should fix it!
I'm trying not to lose my mind. So far, so good. Thanks for the tip. I'll try it tomorrow.
Your "T" tool bar is showing but....
The screen cap (thanks for that) shows you in the Develop module which does not have the sort tool. You need to get back to the Libray module, do your sort then go to the develop module.
As to losing your mind? Well, er um I forget.
Db7423 wrote:
tim57064 wrote:
Db7423 wrote:
Use the supplied cable to connect your camera to the computer. Download and check everything transferred to the computer. Turn off your camera, disconnect cable from the camera. Turn camera back on and format the card in camera. Your card is now ready for new pics as very nicely explained above.
I know how to download images from camera to computer. I've been doing that for years.
Sorry you took offense- none intended, I just thought a complete answer from start to finish might be helpful.
quote=tim57064 quote=Db7423 Use the supplied cab... (
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There you go again, thinking when your not equipped. LOL I get accused of that every day.
jeep_daddy wrote:
planepics wrote:
Here are both shots. The second one (posted elsewhere) was after WB correction. The camera was on "Auto" for both shots, except of course for the flash, which I didn't use on the good one.
At first I thought it was a flash sync problem with the shutter being too fast for the flash. Then I thought you might have a graduated ND filter on the lens. But the second shot with no flash squashed that thought. Now I'm back to thinking the first shot is still some kind of sync problem probably caused by reflective surface of the framed image and false readings the camera took. It would be interesting to see if it did this every time you tried using the pop up flash. Anyway, shooting art in frames is best shot without flash since it will reflect back and cause all kinds of problems.
quote=planepics Here are both shots. The second ... (
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Note the flash shadow (top and left) on both shots. The first with a synch error and the second without.
Well, it seems everyone is skirting the answer to the problem.
That line, coming across the middle of the frame is caused by the shutter speed being one stop above flash synch speed. Most cameras synch at 1/250 second and if that is true for your camera you shot at 1/500 second. Shooting above your synch speed causes this problem, but shooting under is fine and helps bring out the ambient lighting.
I know you are 1 stop over your synch speed because the line is dead center, 50% faster than synch. If it had been at the 3/4 mark you would have been 2 stops above etc.
Of course (opening a can of worms here) you can use this error to your advantage when shooting sunsets/rises to illuminate the foreground with flash (bottom ½, ¾ of the photo) and still have high ss to properly expose the sky. (much cheaper than a graduated filter) To do this on some cameras you would need to turn your camera upside down when you shoot to get the correct effect, Your camera it seems does not need this extra step as your focal curtain goes top to bottom.