Yes, 1:1 means that the image of the subject on the film or sensor is the same size as it actually is (1x or life size). The particular distance from the subject depends on the focal length of the lens, the longer the focal length the greater distance. A 10x magnification means that the image is 10x the size of the subject so a 0.1 in subject will form a 1 in image on the sensor and the distance from the subject will be 1/10 as far away as with a 1x magnification.

Manual mode, bulb for the shutter speed and keep the shutter open for the duration of her writing. You'll have to experiment to find the correct aperture. If you opt for the flash to illuminate your daughter I suggest setting the flash to sync with the second shutter curtain, not sure how to do that with a Nikon; she will then be lit up by the flash at the end of the "sentence."

Back in the 60's and 70's Nikkormats were sold in the United States. They were the fixed pentaprism models, not the Nikon F with removable pentaprisms. Beginning with the FM and FE models they dropped the Nikkormat name.

Scientists are not science. Yes, scientists have opinions and bias but science is the consensus formed by years of research by many scientists. There are no data that show that c*****e c****e is not real. Sea level is rising, the planet is getting warmer, the climate is becoming more erratic with more frequent droughts, floods, heat waves and sever cold spells. This increase in climate fluctuations is exactly what c*****e c****e predicts. I remember reading about the threats of c*****e c****e in the 70's when those in power choose to ignore it for short term profits. There are still people who do this or believe those who do. They are wrong. We need to make drastic changes now if we want a planet that is hospitable for our children and grandchildren.

I've never used a protective filter in nearly 50 years, never damaged a front element and rarely need to clean it. I always use a lens hood which provides excellent protection from extraneous light and for the front element.

Try a cable release. The type you need will depend on the camera you have. Most modern cameras use an electronic switch that plugs in somewhere (again it depends on the model). Older film camera releases thread into the shutter release button itself.

I can't remember what they are called either but I recently saw one on Manfrotto's web site--probably listed as a tripod accessory.

I have never found cheap batteries very good--they always seem to have a short lifespan. I would especially not trust cheap LiIon batteries since they have a propensity to spontaneously combust.

I too prefer a tilt head. I used to have a Gitzo ball head but did not like it and got a Manfrotto monopod head instead which I like.

I shot both RAW and a small jpeg. I can quickly share the jpegs with others without having to convert the raw images. It's convenient at times and takes little extra space. I only load the raw files into Lightroom for editing.

Years ago I dropped an F-1, dented the top plate so that after opening the back the latch would not reengage to keep the back closed. Set it to Canon and they said it was unrepairable; probably out of the part for the now discontinued model. Kept it closed with gaffer's tape until I could take it to an independent repair shop that scavenged the part off of one of their more extensively damaged parts cameras. Used it for many years after that. (Would still be using it if Kodak still made Kodachrome.)

When I wanted color it was Kodachrome and when I didn't it was Ilford FP4 or HP5.

Definitely a type of orchid.