Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Posts for: Kozan
Page: <<prev 1 ... 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 ... 31 next>>
Sep 28, 2019 10:48:47   #
OZMON wrote:
does anyone on this forum just post pics as they are shot and not processed in any way.


I think you mean to ask, " are they processed further after they come out of the camera?" All images that can be posted on-line are processed in some way. Even JPEGs are first processed by the camera according to the operator's wishes. The photographer selects how the JPEGs will look, that is, you select VIVID, or natural, or black and white, etc. before the image is taken. Bottom line-- anything that can be posted has been processed.

A better question is "Does anyone POST-PROCESS?", meaning use image editing software before posting.

Post processing can almost always improve an image.

That my 2 cents worth.
Go to
Sep 27, 2019 11:42:17   #
promfh wrote:
MS-DOS (Disk Operating System) or CPM (Computer Program Manager) ??
Perhaps UNIX (SVR5) ?


The earliest operating system I remember is CP/M around 1978. I think the computer was a Zenith and it used 8 inch floppy disks.

I loved MS-DOS 6.22 when it came out. Still have 6.22 operating system on 3.5" floppies.
Go to
Sep 24, 2019 09:45:22   #
Mick 53 wrote:
Hello Friends,
My question is about auto iso settings. In shooting indoors with my Canon 70 D and 60 D with top canon L lenses I have been avoiding flash. I use 160 or higher shutter and around 5.6 aperture in manual. The iso sometimes runs up to 3200 with some noise. In stepping up to another body would I have to go to a full-frame, or a different camera to get the higher iso? Setting suggestions would also be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Mick


Mick, there is no reason to avoid flash indoors (or out). You can get some very pleasing images by pointing the flash up toward the ceiling. Also, if you must use direct flash, dial down the FLASH exposure compensation 1.5 to 2 stops and most of the time no one will know you are using flash. And learn how to bounce the flash head toward a large white wall, and it will be like magic. Nice soft, even lighting.

I usually use AUTO ISO in manual mode. I don't see noise in images, even at 6400 ISO. But, I am using a Nikon D850.

Happy shooting!
Go to
Sep 19, 2019 11:09:32   #
ecobin wrote:
How do you know how sharp your image is when taking the shot. Unless you are tethering (or wireless) to a larger viewing device (such as a computer) it's difficult to know. I can press the zoom button on my D800e up to 11 times to zoom in but it doesn't indicate what percentage zoom I'm seeing. To solve this I filled the frame with a 12" ruler. I then noted what was viewed for each of the 11 clicks on the zoom button. Then I viewed the image in Photoshop and adjusted the zoom in Photoshop to achieve what was viewed for each click. Here are my results:

Nikon D800e LCD View%
16% at no zoom
21% at 1 click
26% at 2 clicks
33% at 3 clicks
38% at 4 clicks
50% at 5 clicks
66% at 6 clicks
95% at 7 clicks
160% at 8 clicks
200% at 9 clicks
400% at 10 clicks
600% at 11 clicks

I find this handy, especially for photographing birds in flight or when hand holding with a heavy lens - it may look okay without zooming in on the LCD but I typically want to know what it looks like at 100% and now I know to do 7 clicks on the zoom button.
Different Nikon models and other manufacturers will likely have different results, so you shouldn't use the above without checking.
How do you know how sharp your image is when takin... (show quote)


On my D850, I have set the middle button on the up/down/left/right area to automatically zoom in to 100%. This only happens while in Live View. You don't have to keep pressing the + button to zoom.

Start with Custom Setting Menu, Multi selector center button, then Live View, then Zoom On/Off, then you have a choice of Low Magnification (50%), 1:1 (100%), or High Magnification (200%). Press OK when finished. Its much easier to press one button one time rather than 7 times.

Good luck.
Go to
Sep 17, 2019 13:41:05   #
dtsobel wrote:
Trying to find recommendations for memory cards for Nikon D850 I'm getting this week. I can't seem to find much info on Nikon website.


I have the D850 and for the SD card, I use Sandisk Extreme Pro. 95MB/s. The XQD card is a Sony G card. 440 MB/s Read, 400 MB/s write.

I can shoot about 24 images before buffering starts.

I shoot RAW to the XQD. The SD is used for overflow.
Go to
Sep 11, 2019 13:42:21   #
Wanderer2 wrote:
For any Affinity users that do not have the workbook, Affinity just sent out emails announcing they are on sale for $35 (normal price $50). This includes a free T-shirt. The workbooks for all of their products are on sale also.

The order form:

https://store.serif.com/en-us/checkout/?basket=bd82e9b27d98018d0ecc2b3bfd2afceec6bb4f5435262a6c


I ordered the workbook this morning. I gave my first copy to my girlfriend. For anyone wanting to learn photo editing, Affinity Photo is the way to go. The workbook is amazing!

Kozan
Go to
Sep 8, 2019 14:04:25   #
morkie1891 wrote:
A simple high level answer is that exposure begins its adjustment at the high end or low end of the histogram. Brightness adjustments begin in the mid-range of the histogram. Levels can adjust all three, as does curves. Curves is distinguished from levels because adjust can be made more precisely via the diagonal line. Allot any of them can be used together. Suggest playing with them on an ill exposed image. Hope this helps.


Also, with Curves, you have an input range adjustment and an output range adjustment. I think it was Mark Wallace from Adorama TV that had an excellent Youtube Video on Curves.
Go to
Sep 5, 2019 09:59:31   #
Hamltnblue wrote:
Hello
Attached is a pic of the Ben Franklin Bridge in Philly using 3 exposures.
Created the HDR using Aurora 19 and final Post in ON1.
People I've shown it have liked it, however to me it looks a little fake?
Can't put my finger on it.
Getting the detail on the Girders and bringing them out of the Shadows took some boost of a few areas.

Thoughts on what might be overdone?
Thanks
Jim


It looks beautiful. Rarely do I say, "WOW" when looking at a photo, but I did in this case. Really gorgeous!. I would, however, have straightened the buildings and bridge support in the lower right-hand corner of the photo. Just a thought.
Go to
Sep 5, 2019 09:41:01   #
cdayton wrote:
I recently took some aerial photos of the Maine coast (Sony a6000, if it matters). Both images are of the Pemaquid Point lighthouse. The first clearly shows the cliffs going down to the water but the second has lost the perspective. Any suggestions on how to correct this with post processing?


Many editing programs such as Photoshop and Affinity Photo have what is called Perspective control (and WARP). You can stretch, condense, move, pull pixels until you get what you want. Do a search for Perspective Controls in Photoshop or Perspective controls in Affinity Photo and you'll get some videos on the technique. Good luck.
Go to
Aug 30, 2019 11:10:31   #
pgerardi wrote:
Looking for some help with speed lites, I just received a Yongnuo YN685 as a gift & have no clue as to its workings. Can anyone out there recommend any sort of reference material as to how to use & understand speedlites? I googled & searched YouTube but all I get is reviews on the YN685 which isn’t helping at all, just trying get the basics as a start would really be great. I appreciate your time & any assistance that can be offered.


The secret to getting good information from a Google search is to input the right search words. Try searching on "Speedlight tips" or "speedlight uses" or "how to use a speedlight" instead of "Yongnuo 685".
Also, search Adorama TV for anything by Mark Wallace. He has some great speedlight videos.

The Yongnuo 685 is a great choice. I love that thing. You can mount it vertically, as well as horizontally. It has a three-pronged connector for the YN-5200 battery.

There really is tons of information about speedlights on YouTube.
Go to
Aug 29, 2019 10:35:02   #
jradose wrote:
I am planning a trip to visit 5 national parks out west next June. I will be taking my D7500, and want to take just one lens. I am thinking the Nikon 18-300mm lens, is there another lens I should consider instead of this lens?


You might consider the Tamron 18-400mm F/5.6-F6.3 lens. It is an excellent lens and is pretty light. Check it out.
Go to
Aug 28, 2019 23:00:45   #
saxman71 wrote:
You're right of course. Another good reason why I should refrain from answering questions here.


Well, one does take a chance in answering questions. You run the risk of not giving enough information, as in my case, or giving the wrong information, as I have done in the past. The former, I don't care about. The latter is very embarrassing.

I usually answer with just enough information, but I be damned if i'm going to spend a lot of time with something the OP could look up with a search engine in the first place. I'll leave that to those who just want to show how smart they are.
Go to
Aug 28, 2019 12:29:57   #
Lars Bogart wrote:
Exposure mistake.
which is easier / better to fix in post editing.
slightly Under OR slightly over ???


Someone did a YouTube video on under and over exposure of film versus digital. As it turned out, film was much more forgiving of overexposure and digital was much more forgiving of underexposure. I suggest you go on YouTube and spend the time researching the topic. Or better yet, get your camera out and investigate for yourself.
Go to
Aug 27, 2019 14:44:53   #
Bill Thrill wrote:
I have had a canon powershot for sometime now and I pretty much get the idea of the iso, shutter speed, and aperture. So now I want to buy my first DSLR because I know they are much more versitile and a point and shoot camera. Where should I start and what is the best beginner DSLR?


From the sound of your emails, I would say you will never get beyond the beginner stage. Stay with your Canon T7. It's a great beginner DSLR. Getting a better camera will not make you a better photographer.
Practice and study will.
Go to
Aug 27, 2019 01:32:56   #
MagicMocha wrote:
No and no, the band and I are on good terms, they did nothing wrong. I do have messages between myself and the band agreeing that they can use my photos. I'm working on a project with them to sell some photos that they will autograph. The image is going to be printed and sold to fans and I and the band have agreed on how much we each get. But all has been done thru emails and phone texting. The news source is trying to sell different size prints without my or the bands permission.


The image you show does not have a valid copyright. You should have something like Copyright, then the copyright symbol, your name, then the year in four digits. Having just your name does not constitute a valid copyright.

I suggest you get a lawyer to send a Cease and Desist letter to the offending party. An official looking letter from a lawyer is usually all it takes.

Good luck.
Go to
Page: <<prev 1 ... 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 ... 31 next>>
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.