I'll defer to your more current familiarity with the technology. If the unit in question is an older Vivitar, I'll stand by my NO

NO! Emphatically.
Thyristor's are designed to carry hi voltage AND HIGH CURRENT.
Unless you isolate it from your camera (as Gene suggested) leave it on the shelf.

Frank, Thank you for posting that neat shot and for waking an old memory! 35+ years ago I hiked through the woods from the Old Mine Rd. to VanCampen's Ravine. Lugging a 4X5 w/tripod and accessories to photograph a waterfall. I wasn't happy with the results and intended to go back and try again someday but, life decided other wise. I see from Google maps there is now a trail going in there and the ravine is now a "Glen". (Guess that's a more attractive word or something.) With a trail now to help my old legs,I might yet go back there.

I'm not Pat but there are times when level is not apparent even with water

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Proper use of any printer avoids clogged heads, improper use guarantees it.
While 3rd party inks can work out for some users most often they are the root cause of clogged heads. If you want to take the chance to save a few dollars, be sure to do extensive research to find the most consistently reliable ink supplier.

Yes, that is true. However, if we can see the water around an object ,we can be sure the water line is level. It is when the water is seen against a distant shore line where we get into trouble. If that shore line recedes the illusion is that the image isn't level even though it might be.
In the final analysis it is the appearance of level that counts.

a nonlinear operation used to encode and decode luminance or tristimulus values in video or still image systems
Sure
It seems that should be a relatively simple link for the programmers.

Thank you, thank you very much

Thank you Gene. All together it took perhaps 10 or 20 mins. Almost all work was done in ACR. White sample for color balance, (re)adjust exposure*, tweak contrast etc, some haze reduction to bring up the ice texture, HSL to add a bit of magenta saturation to enhance the circle in the ice. a bit of noise reduction and sharpening. Then leveling (with content aware checked) in the main program. Finally the color seemed a bit stark so with an adjustment layer I added a tiny bit of an 85 filter.
I would think that younger eyes would be able to do all that in less than 10 mins. depending on experience level.

*I will try to "push the histogram pile" to the right in the future rather than trust my eyes. LOL 'try' because It might be difficult for an octogenarian to develop new habits.

LOL, take a road trip through the plains states. In places like the Texas panhandle the trees are ALL leaning north from the constant, incessant wind.

right now at the Epson clearance center they have refurbished P600's on sale for $539 (with inks) This is a 13X19 printer. It can also be used with roll paper for those panos!
I've been using its predecessor, the R3000, for about 3 years with no complaints

https://epson.com/Clearance-Center/Inkjet-Printers/Epson-SureColor-P600-Wide-Format-Inkjet-Printer---Refurbished/p/C11CE21201-N

The ability to soft proof in ACR!
Also in ACR a gamma slider

Because it's raining and I have the time. And, quite honestly because I embarrassed myself.

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Mia -culpa. My much better half has brought me back to reality. She reminded me that my eye condition causes my eyes to be extra sensitive to light. So, what might look fine to me can look dark to her. Conversely, what looks fine to her can look too bright to me. Where would we be without our spouses?
I apologize

Yep that's the histogram I decided gave me the best over balance. Pushing it to the right made all the ice detail disappear.
My screen brightness (on my sRGB screen for web images) is 129.9 CD/M2. The screen I use for print editing is set @ 93 CD/M2, There I've shown you mine, your turn