When you go to the folder on your computer go to the bottom of the folder window and right below the "file name" drop box you will see another one for "file types". Click on the little arrow at the right hand side and then select "all file types" (or similar wording depending on your software). You should then be able to see all the files.
I have a LowePro Passport bag. Has adjustable padded section plus room for other stuff and one section has a zip so you can expand it - I have had 3 bottles of wine in that as well as my camera and a couple of lenses. Also has outside pockets for papers ands room for a water bottle. Only drawback is outside pockets don't have a closer but I fixed that with a couple of bits of stick-on velcro
One way round it would be a bridge camera with a 30+ times zoom
Hi Pataashb. Community college courses are mostly just short courses of (usually) evening classes that you can take. No Degrees, just tuition with a tutor and a bunck of like-minded students. You are never too old for these. I taught these classes for yoars and had students ranging from 16 to mid 70's. They are a great learning experience for very little outlay.
Join a camera club if there's one handy - get plent of advice and critique there. But get out, take photos and look for places like charities etc that need photos done for little cost where you can practice practice, practice.
I am now 68 and am expanding my photo skills and subjects all the time. Good luck
For the "seeing eye" type book I would borrow the Freeman Paterson books from the library for ideas. He has several books. These are more about what you see and how to capture it rather than the technical shutter speed, f stop information but he is fantastic. Why don't you take an evening course in basic photography??
Well, at least you have learned how to bracket exposure!! A very useful tool when you are in difficullts exposure situations or if you want to use HDR!!
Hi - I used to shoot 120 slides and I got some superslide mounts and projected them on my 35mm projector. You will lose about 1/3rd of the slide size (cropping) but you can cut the film so that the most important part of the image is showing. In some projectors you may also get some vignetting but at least you can project (part of) them
If you are using autofocus also set that to spot focussing as well as your spot metering. Also I think your shutter speed is too low. I would up the ISO to 400, shutter speed to at least 1/250 and try to use about f11 aperture for best results
If you are using autofocus also set that to spot focussing as well as your spot metering. Also I think your shutter speed is too low. I would up the ISO to 400, shutter speed to at least 1/250 and try to use about f11 aperture for best results
I have one of these and it took 620 film. This is the same size as 120 medium format film which is readily availble. The only difference between 620 and 120 is the spool which has different slots in it - can't remember what the difference is but you could either a: respool the film and backing from 120 onto a 620 spool or b: modify a 120 spool.
It's only the takeup spool you would need to worry about I think. If you have a 620 takeup spool in it try a 120 for fit at the other side.
Best of luck and I would like to see the results.
I am from Wellington, New Zealand and have been watching posts on here for a while and have found them most interesting.
I drive a Canon 550D plus a p&s which is nearly always with me. Any other Kiwis on here? - I'm sure there must be
Nic pic - so relaxing!! Wish I was there
One thing to remember about DOF is that of the total dof one third is in front of the focal point and two thirds behind it. Remember that to make sure you background is or is not sharp. The actual total dof is dependent on the f stop and focal length. I don't know the math for that.
Definitely a DOF problem. Set your camera on Av and set your subjects up as with the photo you attached. No switch to manual focus and focus on one of them (Manual so you will always be focussed at the same point). Now set your aperture to its widest (smallest number) and take a photo. Set aperture to a mid value, say f11 and take another. Then set to smallest (say f22) and take another. Now load them into your PC and look at them and you yould see with the smallst f stop (f22) that they are both in focus, with the widest (f 5.6) that only one is in focus. You can use this to delibertely defocus one or keep them both in focus. Cheers
Hi - Use a steady tripod, use either a remote release or put it on 2 sec self timer, manual focus, IS off. Also use a smaller aperture to make the depth of focus greater. You may have to up the ISO a bit to do this depending on how slow your shutter speed is. If you are using a 300mm lens you need at least 1/250 hand held (reccommend 1/500), on a good tripod you can go slower. Do not fire camera by pressing shutter button as you WILL get shake. A remote release will set you back less then $20 - and for a few bucks more you can get one with an intravoltameter so you can take time lapse.
Sounds like you have the general idea of focus on the eyes etc
Hope this helps