Sorry for going on a bit about EVs but this stuff does affect photographers. I have been parked up miles from anywhere taking photos. If you wander off taking photos and come back to find you had left lights on at least with a car you can get a jump start from another car. You won't be doing this with an EV. Nor will you be walking back with a petrol can to top up enough to get you back to a garage. It's a tow truck. In other words you need to look beyond a few dollars saved in fuel costs and at the wider picture of just how EVs will affect your life.
Your jumper cables will have to be replaced with a high current extension cable 30 miles long.

That I don't know but since 100mph is a lot more than 100kmh I would imagine the range would not be very much at all. A lot of EVs will probably have their range quoted in kmh because it sounds a lot more than if quoted in mph. I would imagine that 100mph would really suck the juice out quickly. So maybe an EV with a range of 400kmh may only get 150km at 100kmh but perhaps only 80km at 100mph. Do your own conversions here and note that my figures have no backup here from actual examples. I have a number of rechargeable Li-ion torch batteries and this is what I see.
Note three things here -
1. If they don't quote it then it is because the figures are not good (eg quoting a range of 400km but not saying at what speed - basic marketing)
2. As you well know batteries slowly lose capacity over time and use. This means a quoted range of 400km may only give you 360km in 2 years time. I have never seen any examples quoted for this. In 6 years I wouldn't mind betting that the range will drop to less than 300km and you wouldn't be too far away from a bill of (?) USD 6000 for a new battery pack.
3. The maximum capabilities will be quoted. This means that 400km range will be quoted when brand-new, down hill, tail wind, single passenger, no luggage, at 30kmh because this is true BUT not real life. Once again basic marketing.
The figures I want to see are range 400km at 100kmh, battery life 100% in 5 years (or at least a guaranteed minimum drop), replacement battery pack $1000, vehicle cost same as petrol. Then I will buy.

Also forgot to mention (and I don't know for sure about this and it may change) that I suspect a quoted 400km range for an EV is probably only at 50km/hr rather than at say 100km/hr. So its true range at useful travel speed is probably more like 150km. I couldn't even visit my daughter without having to charge at her place

A whole 25% of current price in my area ! Come to New Zealand where the government takes over 50% AND local counties are now allowed to grab more on top !
This tax is supposedly used to build and repair roads but a lot goes into the consolidated fund. Fuel tax is a cash cow.
With the government grabbing over 50% you can bet your boots that alternative ways of taxing electric vehicles will be high on their agenda. If they try to get back a similar sort of revenue then add that to the extra cost of EV over conventional cars, the cost of a battery replacement after several years (equivalent to swapping out your engine), higher depreciation (because who wants a high mileage vehicle when you will be up for replacement battery packs possibly worth more than the vehicle), lower and less convenient mileage per charge (if I am on a long trip I can at least put a 20ltr fuel container in the boot - and if you run out of fuel it will take a long extension lead to be able to charge your car in the country). And as I said previously any previous gain in economy because electricity is cheaper than petrol will disappear as they increase costs somewhere to make the total cost equivalent.
Basically the true economies of EVs have not been put before the public.
Oh and I forgot that the cost of copper will rise dramatically as they need more and more for the electric motors.

One thing of interest with electric vehicles is that users seem to think that there will be no road users tax (whether extracted through fuel taxes or whatever). How on earth do you think any government isn't going to work out a way to charge another way to make up for this huge drop in income ? If you think there will be no charge then you are dreaming. I have found that with fossil fuels in particular that when you work out equivalent performance to energy content most fuels tend to have a similar cost. One way might be to increase the cost of electricity to equivalent value (which would not make me very happy). Or maybe charging stations will have a meter downloaded somewhere and you pay extra for power used this way. Or hub meters connected and read every 10,000 miles. Who knows ? But fuel taxes pay for roads and although an electric vehicle may cause a less little damage to roads than petrol powered vehicles you still need roads and they have to be paid for somehow.
However they do it you won't like it .

Make sure you check for rear glass clearance. My wife found, with her Tamron 150-600, that only an early series Tamron 1.4 TC would fit. The later series Tamron TC, current model, wouldn't fit and nor would any Nikon. Just beware before ordering online.

Often it comes down to how much you want to spend. I get this all the time from my customers. So I ask them what is their bottom line cost wise. Once I have this I then tell them that I will build the best computer possible for that price. That means the best match of components. BUT I also tell them before I quote that it is quite possible that to get the best match of components it is possible that one or more components, to keep it compatible, might boost the price over their limit. An example might be that I give them a really good match but the system disk (SSD of course) is a 128GB and they would really benefit more from a 256GB and this would add say another $50 to the price. Note here that everything else is compatible but it is impossible to match the price because of one component. They then might decide to drop the graphics card to the next lower model to get the larger SSD. This will destroy the component match but not by too much.
It is pointless quoting a $5000 to someone who only wants to spend $1000.
And the SSD should be a PCIe M.2 NVMe type as these are a lot faster than SATA style. If upgrading then a standard SATA type is all you can move to but a new PC should have a motherboard that can take the NVMe PCIe type. You can gain even more speed by getting your SSD on a PCIe card as these often use 8 PCI channels rather than the 4 of most M.2 drives. I have seen insane speeds from these - up to 5 times a standard SATA type. Does cost of course.

Be very careful what teleconverter you buy. My wife has a Tamron 150-600. She already had a Tamron 1.4x and this fitted okay. A friend wanted one so she bought a Tamron 1.4x as well. Turns out that it was a mark 2 version tele and it didn't fit because one of the glass lens was in the way. I was able to purchase a used mark 1 version and she returned the new one she had purchased. We did, as part of our research, try a Nikon 1.4x but this didn't fit either. So be very careful that you get a teleconverter that will fit. I might be tempted to see if any shops selling used equipment have something you can try. Just remember that teleconverters are popular items as nobody wants to pay new prices for one of these as they don't get used that often.

A 4TB hard drive of that age will be a 3.5" drive. 2.5" versions of 4TB drives are a recent product. So being a 3.5" drive it will require a larger case and a power supply. Usually these days the power supply will probably be a brick like you get with a laptop. In NZ cases by themselves are harder to source because everybody has gone the integrated way. 2.5" versions of 4TB are 5400rpm and will be as slow as a wet week. A WD black 4TB will run at 7200rpm and will have a much larger cache. Coupled with USB 3 it will be a fast drive.

When you think about this it really stinks. I bet that at least 90% of people who buy an additional drive only have a single drive and think that (most people are too optimistic for their own good) this is all they need for backup. This is not just photographers but everybody who does any sort of backup, or uses an extra drive for additional storage. So when your laptop/PC goes tits up (excuse the expression) and you then require stuff back from your backup drive and you find that, for some reason, you can't read the drive you go through the procedure above of trying to remove the drive on the off chance that you can hopefully still access the data. BUT the manufacturers have carefully made the drive extremely hard to remove (and this is for their own convenience, not yours) making the possibility of losing data even more stressful. Bottom line -
You need two identical copies of the data stored not one. Even with two copies, especially if stored in the same room, you can lose everything. But with good drives (5 year warranty WD Black drives) mounted in separately purchased housings with one of them stored in the garage (unless it is part of your house) you vastly increase your chances of having at least one good copy of your data (assuming that you make both copies at the same time of course).

Mini or micro USB plugs are the most unreliable things on this planet. It is often not the cable, although they pack up frequently, but the sockets. I have had hundreds of these fail (I am in the PC business). If you have been using the cable method for 8 years then my pick would be the socket. Remove the card and try a card reader. If this works then it is the socket on the camera and I would imagine that on an 8 year old camera the cost to repair would be more than the value of the camera. The problem and the difference between plugging in a card or a cable is that cards tend to go straight in evenly because they have a substantial part of their length as a guide. USB plugs don't have this guide bit so are very susceptible to damage caused by insertion and removal by slight sideways movements during the process.
Although it is impractical to leave a cable plugged into a camera all the time on a PC with removable drives you should always leave the cable plugged into the PC and plug this cable into the removable drive housing. It is always cheaper to replace the cable or the drive housing rather than a slogged out port on you computer. I usually try and buy housing with the larger USB ports rather than micro or mini because they always eventually crap out.

Be very careful removing the drive from the old enclosure. Some of the external cases (Seagate an example) are not simple or easy to see how they come apart. You need to be particularly carefully with how the drive is attached through its SATA connections at the end of the drive as it is easy to break them. Note that some drives won't even be screwed in anymore and only held by pins. Basically just be careful. Once (foolishly but the price was good) I bought a few Seagate external drives to refit into a PC. They were some of the hardest drives I have ever seen to remove and in fact I doubt they were ever meant to be removed again. I have to admit my removal was made harder by trying not to damage the cases so they could be reused but after the first couple I gave up on that idea.

Although it isn't completely infallible you can often judge the capacity of a battery by weighing it and comparing the weight with an OEM battery. The amount of plastic in the battery can affect this a little bit. But all things being equal a similar weight will give a similar time. As time goes on over the lifetime of a camera the clone manfs sometimes increase the cell capacity whereas the OEM tend to keep using the same capacity. So you can have clone cells lasting longer. Unfortunately Asian manf cells often have extremely optimistic capacities labelled on the side but weighing them can give you an idea. It is true that a well manf cell will last longer than a poorly manf cell. OEMs tend to use good cells and manf well. Clones sometimes haven't a clue. BUT also there are good clone manfs out there and their cells may well outlast the OEM and even have a greater capacity. If going the clone way then look online to see what cells are recommended by users.
I number my batteries and use them in this sequence ie if I take out #3 then I next use #4. It is much easier to suss out a failing cell and is not hard to get into the habit of doing. I do the same with my power tool batteries.

Unfortunately genuine OEM batteries for cameras are the same as those for power tools and ink cartridges for printers (and buying wine at a restaurant). That is where they make their profit on the primary product. I guess with cameras it isn't the same price comparison as for power tools and printers. It is frequently cheaper to throw away the tool or printer rather than buy a pair of new batteries or a set of ink cartridges (same with laser printers sometimes as well). With printers they give you starter ink which are only 1/3rd full so you need to buy a full set sooner. Two examples - Makita drills 2 spare batteries cost more than the kit with a drill and 2 batteries making the drill free. Or my laser printer where a full set of toners cost more than original printer plus toners. Greed ahead of trying to save the worlds resources. I understand how capitalism works but its not the best for the world.

I built a really high end PC about 8 years ago (2 actually one for me and one for my wife). It had the 3rd fastest CPU, 32GB memory, good graphics card, triple channel memory of the fastest the motherboard would hold. It is still going well and I have no need to replace it, or my wifes. She has a D850 and it handles the large files okay. I used server cases which were even older. Plenty of internal room for the disk arrays. The 8 year ago upgrade went straight into the same case without touching the disks at the time. And the disks are mounted in a 5 disk chassis. I have had odd things fail, the odd disk, a couple of PS's, upgraded the video cards BUT all of this has been so easy to repair. I agonised at the time about the expense but it has proved to be well worth it. And because it was high end and fast right from the beginning I have had the value from this speed the entire time. My monitors are 32" 4k and 20" 1600x1200. One of the rare occasions when I have spent the money and never regretted it.