There may indeed be low draw circuits still active while the camera power button is off. I would be very surprised if there were not. But if the camera draws down the battery quickly while supposedly shut down, like in a week of non use, then that could indicate a problem. Techs often label such issues a parasitic load. Maybe something that needs to be addressed? Some memory requires a slight power draw to retain information. But modern electronic circuits usually draw such light amounts that it can take months to deplete a battery. I was never a camera tech but repaired other kinds of electronics in the stone age, and sometimes saw these things happen.
Brent46, how long does it take to draw down your battery significantly? And turning the stabilize off solves the problem? Does it occur with just one camera/lens combo, or do other lenses create the same condition? Maybe some questions a tech would like answers to before looking into your camera issues.

Wow, 200K ! That is impressive. You know you will not get a ton of money if you sell it, so use it until it slips into a quiet grave. Or better yet buy a new D750 and use the old one as your backup. I always felt the backup should be identical to the main body used. Instant and total familiarity.
I read awhile back that the shutter estimates were quite conservative and could be exceeded by many more exposures. Check the serial number of the camera against the recall, you could get a new shutter for free! Talk about getting your money's worth!

Very cool pic Mike ! Nice rig too.

I have been to upper and lower Antelope some years (30?) ago. Spent most of two days there. I used a variety of lens, but this was in the film days with medium format, so I did not worry as much about dust as I would with my digital equipment. I remember using a wide lens at times, BUT when I went there, I was blessed with very few people with me. I remember maybe a van load of us, for the first hours, then more towards the end. I would work for 15 min or more and see no one else. I had the place almost to myself and spent 4-5 hours shooting! Shot Ektar 25 so long exposures made a tripod essential. Things have changed a lot since then it sounds like? If you shoot wide might other people walk into your shots? It sounds like their are tons of people entering these days. A 24-120 might be less frustrating to use? My widest lens was not even equal to a 24 on Fx format. I do remember that no matter the lens you choose, there will be views to shoot! When I was there it was also essential to have a flashlight with extra batteries, it got very dark in the deep recess of the slot canyon. Good luck finding something you dropped if you have no light. You will have a blast there!

I have just gotten back my D750 for the same recall. I have not done much more than power it up and put on a lens. My settings appear lost. And no, I did not save them. A new shutter was installed. etc. From everything I have read on this thread it seems settings might have been reset. But I will check out my camera by first doing a complete reset, just in case that supposition is wrong? Why fight some weird setting that I would never guess was touched? Maybe things were set to aid the technician in adjusting the autofocus, and other systems, which Nikon said they did. By doing a complete reset at least I will know ground zero, then proceed from there. But thanks for posting, nice to know one is not alone. And thanks mborn, I will use a small memory card to save my settings in the near future, great idea!

Careful E-Bay shopping can net you a great objective for low bucks. The 10X range are the most common sold, so many to consider. Some nice chinese made adapters for microscope Objectives to camera are sold on Ebay as well. I will pm you more thoughts on this subject.

Look into courses at your local community college. If you are a senior they can be extremely inexpensive! Especially if you purchase an older edition text book online.

Just a thought: I have needed huge capacity for camping gear as well as camera. So I bought a comfy camera backpack that held enough for day trips from a basecamp, and also had taken a very large hiking backpack that the camera bag stowed into when I needed to move my camping and photo gear to the basecamp. The camping backpack with hiking equipment could be sent fed-ex to the starting point containing only clothes, boots, and whatever I needed to camp/hike with. The camera stayed with me in a carry on sized camera backpack as I flew to destination. Made the whole process easy and I kept my camera close by and safe at all times.

Thanks for the heads up, my D750 camera is affected as well. Glad I have my old D7000 still!

I would like to buy it. Sent you a PM.

I assume you have tried to hang your camera bag from the center column to add mass and dampen vibration? If you still have too much shake, are you using a remote release? Your fingers can create huge shake induced blurs. Is the head solid? A good gimbal works wonders for nature work. If you tried all that then get as solid of a carbon fiber tripod as you can afford. They generally are more rigid than aluminum versions. Uuse this tip: never load a camera lens combo weight more than half the recommended load on a tripod/head ! So buy bigger than the load limits suggested by the manufacturer, you will not regret it. Field work is way different than studio. Go heavy duty, a few pounds will not kill you to carry if you walk away with stellar images.

I have a larger one I suppose? The pad surface for the pen measures 6.5 X 11 inch. I used to do a lot of detailed selecting, retouching portraits, and created art for business clients on a pro basis. I found from experience that the larger the surface the more exacting you can do your work. I used to own the small pad, it was the less expensive way to improve my workflow in PS. But found it was kind of like purchasing a lens based on low price, after you gain more experience: you realize you need a better piece of equipment. I was skeptical when the camera dealer suggested I move up in size to make my work easier. But after a few days using my new pad, I found out he was spot on. My suggestion is: purchase the largest you can comfortably afford. If you are on a tight budget then get the small one, it will be an improvement to your workflow. I know many here recommend the small pads, but how many of those people ever worked with the medium or large ones? Does the small size work? Yes indeed, I found it better than just the mouse, and it may be all you need. But if one has experience using a better tool, would he ever go back? Not me.

Welcome from Mentor Ohio!

Every scene has multiple interpretations. The photographer chooses the best combination of shutter speed, N.D. filter, viewpoint, etc to express what he see's as a final image in his mind. And many different images can be made of the same subject by one or many photographers, and they all can be accepted as legitimate art. To avoid one style of shooting a water scene over another just limits a photographers ability to express the moment. Shoot what stirs your imagination, see deep into a scene and let all your senses take over! Then figure out how best to share what you feel with a viewer?

The reason the nodal point matters is that the less the program doing the stitching has to guess, or massage details to fit, the more accurate the rendition. IF you want an accurate pano, then use a proper tripod and head, check for correct positioning and slide the camera position in two planes until it shows perfect alignment with the tripods head. Then lock it all down and use a level tripod head with only pan movement. Make sure you use sufficient overlap, too little and the results will show it. I did this kind of work maybe 20 yrs ago for part of my livelihood. The more accurate you align the tripod and head, the less artifacts(defects) produced in stitching. Those defects will cause scenes to look like garbage to a trained eye, and any amateur can spot them if a proper image is compared to a quickie. Handholding can be done for a quickie rendition, If you just happen upon a scene, in surprise situation that does not allow you to use all the proper tools, then by all means shoot a down and dirty set of images. Overlap more than usual in that kind of scenario! If you like the result, maybe plan another trip to go back and reshoot with all the tools you can muster if the scene shows superb possibilities. A tripod with pano-head, and time spent adjusting everything, is time well spent if you wish to produce the best image you can. A side benefit is that the stitching process becomes fast and easy when everything is done right.