Just a suggestion. Golfers have what they call "rain gloves" available at golf stores. These are fairly tight, thin gloves that will allow you to work just about all the controls on your camera.

I use them when I walk in the winter here in CT. They keep my hands warm enough for 20 minute time periods, after which I stick my hands in my coat pocket to warm them up. They are very inexpensive.

You may want to stick a pair of these gloves in your coat pocket and try them when the temperature is not excessively low.

John T.

Back story- I am moving to mirrorless.

Yes, all brand new in April 2019.

Nikon D 750 digital camera, full frame.

Nikon 28-300mm 3.5-5.6 G ED VR lens.

Nikon AF-S 50mm 1.8 G lens.

Peak camera strap.

LowePro Fastpack camera backpack, Model BP 250 AW ll.

All gear was purchased in April 2019. 126 clicks on the D 750 shutter. Everything is in pristine condition.

$1650 Call at 860 384 2779

I searched today for a Nikon D750 for Dummies and could not find this book anywhere, new or used. Was such a book ever published?

Hello all,

I have been watching the price for a Nikon D750 for several months now. Last fall, you could pick one up for $1396 with a battery grip included. Today, the camera is $1496 with nothing included.

My question is "do you think the price of a D750 will decrease when the new D760 is announced? $1496 is not a bad price for this camera, but I would hate to buy it today and see it cost less in 3 months.

Decision, decisions.

John T.

Hello all,

I was reading that, with the Nikon D850, the photographer should have his/her lenses calibrated to ones own specific camera for optimum results. I have never heard this comment regarding the D750.

What is the threshold in megapixels after which you need to calibrate your lenses? Would calibrate with a 34-36 megapixel camera?

John T.

Hello all,

Forgive me if I have overlooked something obvious, but when I read my User's Manual on page 138-139 I do not see how to save an image in the camera that I have zoomed in on and moved the subject a bit to the right or left, using the QUAL button.

Is it possible to save these images or am I limited to just viewing them on my LED screen?

Thanks for your help.

John T.

Hello all,

I have decided that a Nikon 850 is too expensive for my budget and have settled onto purchasing either the Nikon D750 or the Nikon Z6. I am upgrading from 9 years with a D90 to a full-frame format. I have no interest in video and mostly want to obtain tack sharp landscape photos (camera+lens+technique).

My thoughts are as follows. Does the use of a lens adapter on the Z6 degrade image quality?

Built in flash on the D750 could be helpful for occasional indoor family pictures. Extra expense to add flash to Z6.

D750 doesn't have a built in image stabilization as does the Z6, which would limit the lens selection to those with VR on the D750. Lens selection would be the same quality with either camera.

Currently, the D750 comes with a battery pack that would probably allow for easier vertical shots.

D750 control layout is more traditional than on the Z6. Less of a learning curve with the D750.

D750 is a bit less expensive, but it is four years old. Z6 is brand new and is most likely to receive a great deal of Nikon's research attention and budget in the future.

I guess what I am asking is would today's UHH Nikon D750 users, if they were buying a camera today, still choose the D750 or would they buy a Z6?

Thanks for your help.

John T.

Hello all,

I noticed that a Nikon D750 has an anti aliasing filter and a Nikon D850 does not. How important is that filter to obtaining sharp images and why is the filter left out of the higher end cameras?

Thanks for your help.

John T.

Hello all:

I am trying to decide between these two for post processing JPG and RAW images. I am a bit leery of the self taught learning curve, but I am committed to learning whichever one I purchase. I will be buying and using a 24 or more megapixel camera shortly and intend to move to RAW images exclusively.

Any thoughts on which one to choose as a first step?

John T.

Hello all,

I am nearing retirement and have decided to get more serious about my photography hobby. I am a serious amateur who has been dabbling in photography for many years. I have been shooting a Nikon D90 since 2009 with the kit 18-105, 3.5-5.6 lens. I am ready to upgrade.

I have been saving for this upgrade for a long time and now have a budget of $5,000. However, spending less than that amount would certainly be acceptable. What is more important is that I end up with the right camera/lens system that works for me without buying more technology than my skill level can utilize. I recently began my post processing career with Photoshop Elements. I may want to enlarge a photo from time to time to a "hang it on the wall" size, but nothing outrageous.

I am primarily a landscape (80%), car show(15%), air show (5%) shooter. My primary goals with this purchase are superb image quality and outstanding auto focus that ultimately produce tack sharp images. I am working on the tack sharp part with practice, local college classes, tripod, reading, talking, Internet, UHH, etc..


My current D90 has no value as a trade in and I am willing to consider another brand besides Nikon. I am leaning towards a full-frame camera such as the Nikon Z6, Z7 and D850. But, I am attracted to the Sony A7 III, as well as the Olympus OMD series and the Fuji XT-3 with the smaller sensors. I am on the fence regarding mirrorless vs. regular DSLR technology.


Lastly, for landscapes, are 2.8 f-stop lenses really necessary when 6 or 11 f stops offer the best sharpness? 2.8 lenses are much more expensive, as you know. If you needed background blur I would think that a 1.4 or 1.8 prime lens would be better.


Thank you all for your help.

John T.

Hello all,

I have been a serious hobbyist for several years, but I have never done any post processing. I have decided to try Photoshop Elements on the 5 years of pictures stored on my SD card. All of those images were shot with a Nikon D90 and a Nikon 18-105 VR kit lens.

All of these older images were shot in JPEG Fine. Going forward, do you recommend that I shoot one JPEG and one RAW so that I will have a RAW image for Elements instead of just a JPEG image? I am assuming that to fully use the capabilities of Elements that a RAW image would be the best choice.

Perhaps, I don't need a JPEG image at all. Your thoughts.

Thanks.

John T.