I currently use PSE 2018 and the ACR that is supplied with it. I am wondering if there is a significant difference in the various RAW converters or if they are pretty much all the same.
If some are more robust than others, I would be interested in recommendations. Also, is it possible to use another RAW converter and then still edit the resulting file in PSE.

I am currently interested in acquiring some focus stacking software and am looking for some recommendations / guidance. I'm mainly interested in using it for landscapes, and I currently use Photoshop Elements 18. Most of the research I have done on products seems to be geared to use with Lightroom / Photoshop. Obviously, I need something that can plug-in to PSE, or works as a standalone program. And since I'm just getting started, ease of use is a consideration.
I almost exclusively shoot RAW, so my preference would be to find a program that accepts RAW (.NEF) files as input and outputs a file (RAW, TIFF, JPEG) that I could then further edit with PSE. And I'm OK paying for something if it meets my needs.
Looking for product recommendations that would work well in my environment, and any suggestions regarding work flow or product usage. Thanks.

I attended his seminar in Mpls and found it very worthwhile, and well worth the $99. To start with he is an entertaining speaker. Two of the sessions were on landscape and portrait photography, along with specific recommendations for gear and settings. In addition he discussed a lot of general things, again with specific examples and recommendations.
He also does a lot of demonstrating of Photoshop and Lightroom. I use PHotoshop Elements, so a lot of that material was lost on me. But even so, I thoroughly enjoyed the seminar.

CHG_CANON - thanks for the reply and the link. Very helpful!

I purchased a picture frame, which has a display area of 12" by 9". Per the documentation it displays 1024 pixels x 768 pixels. Math logic suggests to me that the frame displays 85.333 dpi.
Based on that, I'm thinking it would be best to resize or crop my photos to 1024 x 768 pixels (or 12" by 9") with a resolution of 85.333 dpi to fill up the frame, get the sharpest display output, and most effectively utilize the space on the thumb drive.
Is my thinking on this correct, or would there be any advantage to loading denser (say 200 or 300 dpi) or larger jpegs?

In response to the questions on crowds and tripods:
It is crowded, but it wasn't really a problem. The only way to get in is to take a tour, and there are two variations - photography and non-photography. I took the photography tour, and would strongly recommend that. They limit those tours to 6 people per group, and your guide helps direct traffic so you get some time and space. Not as much as I would have liked, but manageable. Only requirement for getting on the photography tour is you need a DSLR camera.
I don't believe tripods are allowed on the non-photography tours, but they are allowed (though not required) on the photography tours (I took mine). The canyon is narrow and crowded, so navigating with a tripod can be difficult, especially if everyone in your group has one (fortunately we only had two in our group). Secondly, if you are going to take a tripod, make sure it is flexible enough to shoot almost straight up vertically. I struggled with this on my tripod and it got frustrating to the point that I eventually quit using it. However, shots that have light coming in have a significant dynamic range, and it is almost a necessity to take some bracketed shots and a tripod obviously helps with that.

Toured Antelope Canyon last month and thought I would share a couple of the better pics.

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Yes - thanks. I’m actually working thru a Udemy online course now.

Thanks Linda! I actually tried to do this but couldn't find the 'Open in Camera Raw' option because I was looking in the Organizer for the option. This should really help!

My daughter took a number of pics (jpgs) in Iceland that all have a yellow cast, which I believe was caused by a screwy white balance setting on her camera. I've attached a couple below. I was wondering if anyone knew of any techniques in PSE 2018 that I could use to help correct or mitigate some of this. Thanks.

Crappy day for photography in Rocky Mtn NP due to fog, clouds, sleet and snow. However, did manage to get some nice shots of elk in the park.

I am considering adding a couple days to a road trip to try to photograph Crystal Mill in CO. It involves a 8-10 mile (moderately difficult) hike and I would try to do it on a Monday (Oct 22) to avoid crowds and traffic on the trail. Just wondering if anyone has done this and what your thoughts, suggestions and recommendations would be.

A situation has occurred a number of times for me where I attach my flash to the camera and it works fine in TTL, but the camera won’t fire with the flash in manual mode. Removing and reattaching the flash seems to be the only solution. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this, or if anyone has a suggestion / recommendation on how to go about getting it corrected.

Thanks for your reply. I did play around with it and noticed it seemed to work. I was just concerned that doing so could damage my equipment and thought I would ask. I apologize if this was too basic of a question for this forum.

I have a Nikon D7500 with Tamron 18-400 and Tokina 11-20 lenses. I almost always shoot in autofocus mode (both camera and lens set to AF). My question is for the occasional times I want to use manual focus. Can I just set my lens to Manual Focus and leave my camera on AF (which is a faster change) or do I need to change both the camera and lens to MF (which is slower and more cumbersome). Just want to make sure I don’t do something that could damage my camera or lens.