Decades ago, took a tour of the sewers. Back then, I used the Paris Blue Guide, (fantastic guidebook series)now no longer updated, No hotels or restaurants, just incrediblely detailed site/sight guide.

If running windows, I'd check the Event logs to see what event is reported when it crashes.

Why I ALWAYS provision HDD's before trusting them for data.

I use a lot of HDD's and find the cost/TB their advantage. HDD's are (DOA, fail quickly, or run for a long time). To eliminate the first 2, I provision ALL my HDD's before putting into service. Yes, it takes time, but better than the alternative.

Provisioning:
1. LONG format, not Quick
2. Full checkdsk drive_letter /x /v /f /r /b
3. I use another paid program, StableBit Scanner, for another surface check, and to automate periodic surface scans.

https://stablebit.com/Scanner

A well maintained, author responsive program.

That's 3 times that EVERY sector has been accessed. I then check the drive's health using Hard Disk Sentinel (paid pro version), and during the provisioning, same program to monitor HDD temps.

Regardless of the external drive, I strongly suggest you monitor drive temps (and health). I've used a Windows paid program, Hard Disk Sentinel, for over a decade. The Pro version allows you to set temp thresholds and specify actions when those are reached (audible alarm or even computer shutdown). Nice when you can leave the computer on its own and not have to worry about "cooking" a drive. A MUCH better deal then a single Pro license is the Pro pack for 5 licenses. Even if you don't have 5 computers, a license makes a nice gift to someone. Author is responsive, program is well maintained, and I can verify about the lifetime license (author once helped me when I wanted to move a license from a dead notebook). This is one of those programs I have on every computer.

https://www.hdsentinel.com/store.php

From a post several years ago (the RX-358 discontinued, don't know about the Ultrastar links):

For home use, I use the Rosewill RX-358 that comes with an internal fan - you supply the 3.5" drive of choice. For archival storage, like others have said, I use enterprise drives (HDST Ultrastars):

https://www.newegg.com/rosewill-rx-358-u3c-blk/p/N82E16817182247

https://www.newegg.com/hgst-hus728t8tale6l4-8tb/p/1Z4-001J-004Z9?Item=9SIA9948WN9223

An 8TB ultrastar is approximately 1.6 times the cost of a WD Red Plus 4TB drive. For everyday "stuff", I use the Red Plus's (they use CMR, NOT SMR), so stay away from the "plain" SMR Red's. My understanding is other drive manufactures are also moving to SMR in some of their HDD's, so be cautious.

https://www.servethehome.com/wd-red-smr-vs-cmr-tested-avoid-red-smr/

I just provisioned 2 8TB Ultrastars in the RX-358 enclosures - with 24 hours of continuous access, temps never went above 100 degrees (ambient temps 75 - 85).

The advantage of building your own, you can buy an enclosure that has it's own cooling, and you can pick the drive inside.

Screenshots of Hard Disk Sentinel here:
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/tpr?p=11642046&t=668851

Hard Disk Sentinel and StableBit Scanner. Bit of duplication between the two. I use Sentinel to monitor disk temps and to sound alarm if get too hot, and Scanner to run periodic surface scans for health (also monitors temps, but Sentinel has more options, including automatic shutdown). Both paid, but have group price packages as I use on all my computers. Both well supported, and very responsive to questions.

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Originally, for daily storage, I used HGST 4TB HDD's. When they were discontinued, I used the HGST NAS 4TB drives. When they were discontinued, I use WD 4TB Red PLUS drives. One of my original HGST 4TB drives has been running 24/7/365 for 5+ YEARS in an HTPC. By monitoring temps (temperature is the enemy of electronics), and periodic surface scans, still healthy and will be warned of pending failure.

Very colorful

Here's why I don't like UPS. Paid for overnight air shipping. Followed progress of package on UPS website. UPS picked up package, put on plane. Plane arrived locally this morning at 5:00 am. Processed and arrived at local distribution center at 8:00 am. Put on truck, out for deliver 9:30 am. Great, nice to have such accurate information. Hear truck pull up at 1:30 pm. Walk outside, ready to tell driver to just set it on curb. Wait, wait, wait... lot of banging and crashing coming from inside the truck. Driver gets in driver's seat, starts engine, ready to leave, sees me standing there. Lean's out, says "Couldn't find it." I ask when it'll be delivered. He says, "If I find it, it has to come back. Otherwise...", shrugs his shoulders and leaves. Customer service at its best.

2 out of four not bad

Not all "small potatoes" shops are bad. A number of years ago, I used the below to repair an FZ1000 with a malfunctioning screen. Granted, the repair was straightforward as he described: order the part from Panasonic and replace. Price of the screen plus around $80 for labor (as I remember). Camera came back looking like new. I was a walk-in.

Digitech Camera Repair
2218 E Colorado Blvd, Pasadena, CA 91107

Damn, I'm old. I remember taking a bus to the cinema to meet my Dad after he got off work and we watched Dr. No together. Didn't realize it's been that long.

Yes, that's why I take photos: to keep memories alive. I know exactly what you mean by "important part of my life..."

To name a drive in Windows:
Open Windows Explorer. RIGHT click on the appropriate drive. In the pop-up window, select Properties. In the new pop-up window, General tab, enter the desired name in the top field. Click OK.

I have a lot of drives. My drive naming convention is:

Drive_letter_I_expect Drive_Name

For Drive_Name, I use either a meaningful name, e.g. Photos, or the manufacturer's serial number.

Now Windows will NOT use the Drive_letter_I_expect part to assign a drive letter. However, it makes it easy for me to see if drives have been mounted correctly by a simple glance at Windows Explorer, as the drives will be shown as, for example,

E Programs (E)
F Data (F)
G WX12345 (G)
P Photos (P)

where the letter in parentheses is the Windows mount point. G in the above is the manufacturer's serial number.

I also use a label maker to put the serial number and the drive letter on the front of the drive. Makes it easy to find a dismounted drive in storage. YMMV

Agreed. And why I always try and use a mobo with a Q code LED display; so much easier than having to listen to beep codes during boot.