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Jul 29, 2019 09:52:54   #
Normajean_1965 wrote:
Hi, I’m new to this forum. I’m a serious amateur shooting with a Nikon D810. I was searching for best places to photograph in Zion because I’m taking a trip there tomorrow, and I came across this forum. Any tips on shooting the narrows? I’m also wanting to capture the Milky Way, any suggestions on good foreground locations. Thank you
Norma Jean



Welcome! Have a great trip. We were there last year and did the narrows. I think the most helpful advice is to rent the waters, boots, and waking stick. We both had close calls with full immersion and the stock really helped. I never use one otherwise, but definitely helped here. It's awkward and inconvenient but also recommend keeping equipment in water proof backpack, unless you're looking to upgrade!
All that said, the Narrows was by far the most unique hiking we've ever done.
If the crowds are to much, check out some of the dayhikes outside Zion proper. We did one that ended on a fantastic overlook that looked over to observation point and angels landing and down on the lodge. Rangers should be able to give the name, it was Deer something ... sorry can't remember.
Have a great trip!
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Jul 17, 2019 08:39:27   #
stephen901 wrote:
Here's a picture of my son and I in my backyard (too many trees) but it's a nice place.
Anyway we're both viewing Jupiter and 4 of it's moons. Our issue is finding information on the best ways to attach our telescopes to our cameras.


Several commercial shops will be able to help if you provide your camera type and scope. Not promoting any of them, but Skies Unlimited, OPT, and Highpoint Scientific have all been very helpful and more than willing to help.
Good luck, but be warned, it's a slippery slope to better gear!
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Apr 12, 2019 10:42:14   #
Rich1939 wrote:
"Great minds think alike"
We're both referring to the same area, Fisher Towers is just a bit further east.


Exactly! Also, don't miss the Hidden valley hike and the amazing petroglyphs at end (still can't find my pictures!). The books make the start of the hike sound terrible, but it's really not bad (we're low 60s and did fine).
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Apr 12, 2019 10:01:23   #
drue.powers wrote:
My wife and I are planning a trip to the Moab area in September. Any ideas for must see and/or photograph besides Arches?? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm looking forward to getting out of Iowa for a few days!!


We also love going into Mon la Sal. Completely different experience. Haystack mountain, beautiful ponds and lakes, meadows. Fisher towers is an other-worldly area, what I imagine it would look like on Mars. On the way to Fisher is a canyon trail with a unique arch at the end. It used to be called "Negro Bill" trail, but last time we were there the name was changed. Negro Bill is on the road to Sorrel ranch resort, Fisher is on the same road but a few miles after Sorrel. Pictures to follow if I can figure it out...
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Mar 10, 2019 09:09:02   #
Right there with you (actually an hour north) with the lousy weather. Got out one of those two nights, guests for the other ... Of course!
I got a nice shot of Orion, but spent more time with the new CPWI software for the mount.

I think Monday looks like it should be clear!
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Mar 4, 2019 22:08:44   #
JimH123 wrote:
Can you tell me the date and time this was taken and in what direction you are aimed. I am trying to recognize any bright stars and haven't yet succeeded.


Sorry for my tardiness. Ran out of disk space! I'll clear things out and give this a try when I can download.
Be back to you soon!
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Mar 2, 2019 22:43:46   #
par4fore wrote:
Two different images from the same photographer. I notice the pattern and was curious.


If you can post the first image so I can download it I'll see what I can do. Off hand, I don't recognize the pattern either.
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Mar 2, 2019 08:57:46   #
par4fore wrote:
Can you tell me what this pattern is and what direction to look toward over long island. Thanks


I'm not sure I completely understand what you are asking.
That said ...
You can upload the image as jpeg or FITS to astrometry.net to get some identification of the stars. Then use a skychart program, e.g., Stellarium, to place the section in the sky.

Is that helpful or have I missed your question?
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Feb 26, 2019 09:21:13   #
bastro wrote:
Maybe I'm misinterpreting. This was with tracking, correct? What do you mean by autoguiding?
I tried a very similar shot the other night but did not take time to properly focus or set up tracking. What a disaster, but it was cold and I had guests coming!


Thanks Albireo,
I've used autoguiding on my scope but have not considered using it with the DSLR. I've not looked for a mount that would work, maybe something to look into. My imaging work is going more technical for scope work, photomtery and astrometry for some research projects, but I am enamored with wide field imaging of nebula and molecular gas clouds which can actually be done better with the DSLR I think (still working on it). Thanks for the comments, pictures and consideration!
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Feb 25, 2019 08:08:35   #
Maybe I'm misinterpreting. This was with tracking, correct? What do you mean by autoguiding?
I tried a very similar shot the other night but did not take time to properly focus or set up tracking. What a disaster, but it was cold and I had guests coming!


alberio wrote:
That was also part of my test...out of the box first setup Celestron Advanced VX mount. They were/are on sale $699
It has a 30lb instrument rating and with my camera and lens it is as rock stable as you could want. I was able to manually focus on the Trapezium without the mount shaking at all. This is as good a combo Camera, Lens, mount for wide to medium field of view images. I'm sure if I set up auto guiding I could get better results. I did have a bit of problem finding stars through the camera to align the mount, but other than that I'm pleased.
That was also part of my test...out of the box fir... (show quote)
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Feb 2, 2019 09:51:58   #
Europa wrote:
Nice. Can you provide additional details on exposures, counts and exposure times? Also, which mount are you using and more details on the equipment used?


Very nice! What color did you use for Ha, red I assume?
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Jan 21, 2019 21:40:55   #
Okay folks.
Move this elsewhere or grow up. Nobody wants to read this.

selmslie wrote:
I doubt that anyone actually understood “the gist” of your post. It wasn’t particularly lucid - more like a whine.
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Jan 20, 2019 07:51:59   #
Nicely done sir!
However, next to last sentence, isn't Aperture supposed to be DIAMETER here?
Thanks!


rmalarz wrote:
Ok, folks, we’re off on another adventure in photographic exposure. Since a lot of you found the first installment ( https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-574357-1.html ) enjoyable and enlightening, let’s do another installment. This time it’s going to get a bit sloppy, as we’ll be using water, various sized containers, and a rather large pipe with some special fittings. The fittings are composed of a device which will permit us to vary an opening through which the water will flow, the DIAMETER fitting, (Aperture). This changes the DiAMETER from fully open to something the size of a soda straw. The other fitting is a VALVE, (Shutter). This VALVE can be opened and closed very quickly controlling how long the water can flow through the DIAMETER we set. These fitting are in line with one another.

Let’s start with our container. Imagine GLASSES Sensor or Film). These are cylindrical and vary in height (ISO), but all are the same size around. This is to keep things simple. For our lab work today, our job is to fill a GLASS. It doesn't matter which one. We just need to fill one. The very tallest GLASS is labeled 100. The next tallest size is 200, the next 400, 800, and finally 1600. The 1600 GLASS is the shortest of the group. The idea is that we need to fill whichever GLASS we choose right to the very brim. We can’t allow any water to run over the top. Nor, can we stop filling the GLASS short of right to the top. So, we don’t want to over fill or under fill whichever GLASS we choose to use.

Now our pipe with an unlimited amount of water is close to being the size of a fire hose. We can vary the inside DIAMETER with one lever marked DIAMETER. The other lever is marked VALVE. These are fitted in line in the delivery nozzle. So, let’s pick a GLASS and place it under the nozzle and start our adventure in filling a GLASS.

We’ll pick the GLASS marked 400. We leave our DIAMETER setting wide open. We take the VALVE lever and pull it open and push it closed. Wow!!! Water all over the place. The water came gushing out of the nozzle, hit the GLASS, overflowed, and it’s clean up time. That didn’t work so well, did it?. How to solve this problem. Let’s close the DIAMETER a bit. Since we don’t want another mess let’s close it quite a bit. We open the VALVE for the same amount of time and water flows at a much more manageable rate but doesn't fill the GLASS right to the top. Hmmm, we need to make another adjustment. We'll leave the VALVE open for a bit longer period of time. Ah, that worked. The GLASS is filled right to the brim and no overflow. Perfect!!!

What we’ve discovered is that the right combination of DIAMETER and VALVE allows us to precisely control the amount of water entering the GLASS and fill it exactly. At this point, we decide to experiment a bit. We notice that if we open the DIAMETER setting a bit, we don’t need to open the VALVE for quite a long to accomplish a satisfactory GLASS fill. We then close the DIAMETER setting a bit and we now need to leave the VALVE open for a longer period of time to accomplish the same satisfactory GLASS fill. So, there is a relationship between how large the DIAMETER is set and how long we need to leave the VALVE open and vice versa.

We have marked this relationship noting the setting indications on the DIAMETER and VALVE. So, let’s change the GLASS. We take the next smallest size, the one marked 200. We place that under our nozzle and have our DIAMETER and VALVE settings the same as with the GLASS marked 400. We open the VALVE and close the VALVE. Wow!!! The water only filled 1/2 of the GLASS. Hmmm. What happened? The GLASS is taller and therefore needs more water to fill it. We need to either open the DIAMETER a bit or open the VALVE for a longer time. It’s a matter of letting more water in, in the same amount of time, or letting the same flow of water in for a longer time.

After mopping up some of our missteps, we take a few minutes to ponder and observe. There seems to be a relationship between how much water is needed to fill the GLASS we choose, the size to which the DIAMETER is set and how long we leave the VALVE open. We also notice that we can fiddle with the DIAMETER and that requires us to fiddle with the VALVE and vice versa. We further notice that if we change the size of the container, we have to adjust the DIAMETER or the VALVE, or both accordingly to obtain a satisfactory fill. With all of this filling we concluded that if we change one item, we have to change something else to accomplish the same perfect fill.

We also notice an oddity here. There seems to be somethings that don’t make intuitive sense. The larger the number on the GLASS the smaller the GLASS. We also notice some setting markings on the DIAMETER and the VALVE. The first marking on the DIAMETER is a small number, but the opening is the largest. As we move to larger numbers the opening gets smaller. It’s odd, but with practice, we’ll know exactly the DIAMETER we’re setting and can repeat that setting whenever we want. The same can be said of the numbers on the VALVE. There's a whole number, 1, followed by fractions. The smaller the number on the bottom of the fraction, the faster the VALVE will open and close.

Well, we’ve been at this quite a while now, and it’s getting late. What’s going on? It seems that the later it gets, the less water pressure we are seeing in the system. No worries, we can still fill our GLASS, but we’ll have to adjust for the less pressure by using a larger DIAMETER or leaving the VALVE open longer. If we really need to get a GLASS filled, we might have to choose one of the ones marked with the larger number. Remember the object is to fill a GLASS, we’re not fussy about which one.

This, very simply put, is the way exposure works in your camera. The light-sensitive material is the SENSOR and ISO (GLASS and its SIZE), it can be set to fill more quickly or slowly as needed. Once set, the SHUTTER (VALVE) allows light to flow through the lens for a precise amount of time and the APERTURE (VALVE) controls how much light can flow through. Working together, under your control, the correct settings are made and the optimum exposure is accomplished.
--Bob
Ok, folks, we’re off on another adventure in photo... (show quote)
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Jan 19, 2019 07:35:54   #
Cany143 wrote:
Arches Nat'l Park


A unique and wonderful image. Been there, shot that, but not like you've captured. Thanks for sharing.
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Jan 15, 2019 18:40:31   #
Whoa, this is phenomenal. I love the Tetons but haven't been there in decades.

mffox wrote:
Grand Tetons National Park, 1982, shot with Mamiya SLR. The Chapel of Transfiguration. Still a favorite after all these years.
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