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Posts for: Deanie1113
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May 19, 2019 07:48:29   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
My keeper rate is around 3% based on editing / culling this week from an original count of nearly 2500 images. Willing to actually print and frame any of these is probably half this amount. I only keep what is good and unique, so it takes some fortitude to delete otherwise good images that are too similar to other images taken of the same subject. Rather than printing, get a digital frame and just keep adding your good stuff onto the SD card and let it run 24x7.

Hi! I would LOVE to get a digital frame and just let it run ... that is a fantastic suggestion! Do you have any recommendations for me, like what brand and what size? Thanks so much!
May 15, 2019 07:17:55   #
I love my Nikon 85 mm. I didn't get the 105 because it is so much heavier than the 85. I don't use a tripod and I like to hike with it or just walk around a garden. It's light and portable for how I like to take macro. Image quality is great.
May 14, 2019 09:34:48   #
I LOVE Topaz AI Clear. I find it is very fast and the results are impressive. I just bought it 10 days ago for $69.
May 8, 2019 07:28:53   #
I would go ahead and do the three falls. It's a great little hike with three pretty, though not spectacular, falls in succession. And probably much less crowded. Bryson City itself is very cool (as well as Cherokee, NC if you've a mind to gamble a little) And my gosh, if you're going to be in Gatlinburg, do Dollywood!
May 8, 2019 07:23:48   #
JimH123 wrote:
Most of the time, I use AI Clear, which has been out about 6 months. But is not available now until it rolls into DeNoise AI. It also removes noise and sharpens.

I love AI Clear. Bought it just a couple weeks ago -- will I have to buy something additional to keep it? Thanks.
Apr 16, 2019 20:53:36   #
burkphoto wrote:
In the same light as your most important subject.

Got it. Thank you!
Apr 16, 2019 17:19:41   #
burkphoto wrote:
Get a Pocket WhiBal from B&H or Adorama or someone. Expose a frame of it before you expose your subject. In post, do a white balance on the WhiBal card. Then copy your settings to the next frame (or make a preset for similar exposures).

A step up from that is the X-Rite ColorChecker Passport.

Thank you, to me that sounds super-simple and logical and I am going to do that. Now, in a forest scene, just where would you put it? Like leaned up against a tree in the foreground?
Apr 16, 2019 14:09:26   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
I have a grey card in my wallet, the same size as a credit card. Easily can be moved from wallet to pants pocket or to breast pocket of shirt for easy access and use in the field when actively needed.

But, it's getting onto years now since I've used the card. I now let the camera operate in auto WB in all situations while shooting in RAW in all situations. I then adjust the K temp and Green-Red tint in LR during editing. You need a calibrated monitor and may need to futz with the values both initially and during a final check of results after editing. I don't click a control point within the image, rather just eye-ball. Use the before / after swap to help eyeball the needed changes.

The auto WB adjustment within LR is usually worse than no change, but the software analysis helps you understand, typically, the direction of the update needed. The auto analysis may make the image too warm or cool, but you can use the direction of the change to determine the update to the original WB / K-temp as determined by the camera. Or, sometimes the LR software will indicate the opposite direction, making an image warmer (higher K temp) when the "correct" update is to pull the K-temp lower from the out-of-camera temp. As you experience and observe the tendencies of the camera and the software, you get a feel for how they work, and over time, can work more efficiently in your editing.

To me, the best aspect of LR is setting the WB on one image and then syncing that change across all similar images. I may tweak the WB further as I work across the images, but usually, after I've "established" the WB for that situation / time of day, I just need to sync across the images and move onto other edits.
I have a grey card in my wallet, the same size as ... (show quote)

Thank you, I think I'm going to get a small gray card. Thanks for the observations!
Apr 16, 2019 14:07:07   #
rjaywallace wrote:
Deanie1113 - I bought a couple of 4x6” WB cards from B&H Photo for minimal cost. The cards are cardboard and weigh nothing in your backpack. They will wear out with use, but are easily replaceable. Flowers and forests are relatively static subjects, so you should have time to take several test photos. If you get the WB correct or at least close to ‘spot on’, it will reduce the time you need to spend in post. They are really quite convenient. Best wishes.

I like the idea of a small, light card. I'll look into that. Thanks! Yeah, I get tired of messing with WB in post.
Apr 16, 2019 06:05:36   #
I always struggle with setting the correct white balance for shots like flowers and forests. I use Lightroom's WB dropper or just click "auto" or "flash" from the dropdown for everything else, but for shots where there just isn't a neutral in the scene this doesn't seem to work consistently. So I end up going back and forth eyeballing it and guessing. I have a gray card, but when hiking, etc., it's just not convenient. Thank you, smart people.
Apr 11, 2019 15:18:50   #
via the lens wrote:
Hi Deanie. Fonts are a function of the computer, not the software. Check to determine what fonts will work with your computer platform. For watermarks, some people now purchase a premed graphic watermark and import it into LR. You can also, as others have said, create a graphic watermark in PS, save as a PNG, then import that into LR. And, you can use both the Watermark function and the Identity Plate function in LR to create a watermark with two lines. You can create a watermark with two lines in the Identity Plate function but it is tricky to do that. I have included images below with two examples. The first example is a watermark created in PS, imported into LR. The second example (I simply used my name twice just to show two lines) is a watermark that you can create with both the Watermark Editor and the Identity Plate Editor. The name font I am using was purchased online for a Mac. Using both Watermark and Identity Plate functions allows you the ability to put additional text on an image, for example, when creating a Christmas card.
Hi Deanie. Fonts are a function of the computer, ... (show quote)

Great information and a great explanation. Thank you.
Apr 10, 2019 16:12:26   #
CamB wrote:
Whatever you figure out think small, subtle, but nice looking and don't put them over the main part of the picture. If the point is to let people know who you are that is all it takes. If you are trying to protect your pictures using low res for posting is a better and less annoying solution.

Small and subtle is def the way to go. thanks for responding!
Apr 10, 2019 14:32:14   #
amfoto1 wrote:
It's tricky to create a watermark that will work on a wide variety of images, to be automatically added by Lightroom.

Watermarks cannot be "created" in LR. There may be some preset ones, but they will no doubt be "generic".

Use some other program to create the watermark. I used Photoshop (but have used other programs in the past). I assume you don't have Photoshop, since you went online to create your watermarks.

Lightroom can scale the size of the watermark to match each image... so make the watermark fairly large (if I recall correctly, I used 60 pt type).

I use a fairly bold, easy to read type face and colored it gray. Next I outlined it in white (which is easily done in "Layer styles" in Photoshop... if using another program to create the watermark, you'll have to figure it out). This way the watermark will be visible and readable on virtually any image.... whether light toned or dark toned. I leave the original watermark with no reduction in transparency, but later will set transparency in Lightroom.

Then it's just a matter of "flattening" any layers and saving the image as a "PNG" file.

The "PNG" file type is important if you want the watermark to have a transparent background, so that only the type shows up on your images when Lightroom adds it. JPGs and GIFs cannot have a transparent background, so will look like a strip of tape with the type on it, laid on your image.

Once the watermark is ready to use and has been saved somewhere, you probably already know you next need to tell LR where it is. You can have multiple watermarks for different purposes. LR will store a list of them, which you can change manually prior to exporting your images (I store a "watermark" and a "signature", which I use for different purposes).

Here are examples (Note: in this case, the signature was applied manually using Photoshop, but it's largely the same when LR automatically adds it to each of a batch of images):
It's tricky to create a watermark that will work o... (show quote)

Thank you so much, that was great info.
Apr 10, 2019 14:27:50   #
Minx wrote:
I recently learned a lot a in a tutorial by Matt Kloskowski..."Photographers Logo & Watermark Toolkit"
It helped me a lot in getting my ideas in line w/ what I wanted to do. Matt is a very good teacher.
Try going to Hope this helps.

Will check that out, thank you.
Apr 9, 2019 18:34:27   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Rick, easiest compared to the LR export? Where LR makes the watermark proportional automatically to the export size of the image? LR is the far far easier approach, especially when you embed the watermark into an export preset and then never have to consider again as the watermark is placed onto every image in the same way: same size, same proportion, same color, same opacity, same position and so forth .... no layer, no brush, no adjustment, no photoshop, and external to the image file

Right, that's what I've been doing. I would like to avoid having to go into PS, but if it works, it works. The problem with the LR export is that 1) the font looks too light and 2) As far as I can tell you cannot have two lines with each one a different font. I'd like my name one font and, in a different font, "Photography" underneath. If there is a way to do that, that'd be great, but I have tried everything and don't think you can have two different fonts.
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