I don't get why people get salty or hooked on any technique since the world and all things are suceptible to change. Some embrace the different methods and some won't for worthwhile reasons; neither of the compacts that I carry are capable of RAW and I always have one with me. With my DSLRs I have only one that can shoot RAW+JPEG, the other allows either/or AND at present, I don't have my pc to work with at home.The greats that we learned from and admire used their choice of gear, lab skills, patience, and vision to achieve their goals photographically and I seriously doubt ANY of them were enslaved to any new techniques that appeared in their lifetime.(Personally, I'm thrilled to have a book that includes some of Ansel Adams's Polaroids!)

Great shot! I can't get any of the ones in our yard with my K-50 (or anything else) because my cat sees them as I approach and so far they split before the feline can capture them.

It is not a necessary function, especially for those who think sitting at their computer can fix anything, but "proper" exposure is determined by the camera's onboard computer or the photographer's experience. Yet the artist in all of us may prefer a difference in the scene for various reasons; it's totally a personal preference. Unless shooting for a client, create an image that pleases you--it's your picture, make it what you want it to be (later on you can spend time at your computer hutch if you wish).

Find whatever control turns off the VR because ironically, there is something about being on a tripod that fools the camera's "brain" and makes the system misbehave when a tripod is used. The discrepancy may not be seen on the camera LCD but in those instances when I forgot to deactivate my VR I see the negative result on my pc monitor upon downloading or when getting any of those shots printed. I have trained myself to think: pull tripod out of carrying case--turn off camera's VR mode...

Film is still availble for your Nikon, a good model to learn photographic skills with and the 35-70mm zoom is good to start with also. As you turn it notice how the scene changes perspective: a wide view is seen from 35 to 48mm while at 50mm is close to the normal "view" of the human eye(NOT counting our periferal vision-which I may have spelled wrong). Beyond 50 to 70mm is a slight telephoto view but not overpowering, so this short zoom is a good learning tool. Using one 1A filter is a partial safety feature for dust or the accidental touch of fingers and won't degrade your photos. Read the other reply about the use of the poloraizer and have fun experimenting on subject that catch your interest. (Also contact York Photo Labs for inexpensive film developing to start with...)

Check out your options at a camera store or online with choices from B&H, Adorama, or KEH for good possibilities from Nikon AND others (Sekonic, Vivitar, etc.) based on budget and how much power you need for the type of shooting you do most. Most independent makers have just about as many choices as the major manufacturers with prices from low to high. Don't rush, you'll find one to fit your needs and your bank account.

I SELDOM let the camera pick what to autofocus on even in landscape mode. My compacts & my DSLRs will normally choose the closest, brightest, or biggest feature to focus on if I let the computer sensor pick the target. When there is any chance of my subject moving I set the sensor in the middle and use AF on its continuous seting. I rarely have an out of focus shot due to the subject moving too fast for me but a lot depends on practice, practice, practice.

Of primary concern will be to please the client. They may want ambient light or to see what the property will look light with interior lighting, just be sure to use camera controls to tell the camera what the lighting is at time of the shoot. The subject of HDR is the on-going controversary of our digital age. For any subject it will yield maximum detail and usually(not always) boost the colors in the scene. Boosting color is not the same as sharpening, think LOUD, GARISH, in-your-face COLOR!!! I think it is totally subjective on the part of the photographer; some cameras and various software will give various degrees of HDR application after capture and should let you cancel it if you choose.

As is the norm, most visible are the Canon or Nikon users and it is no accident that they each have an ad budget bigger than the national debt. For anyone interested, there is a lot of great gear available and the fact will never change: the person holding the camera creates the image, not the tool itself. Cameras are tools of the art, emotionless, visionless, the photographer is the artist.