1. determine your spending limits. iMacs are not cheap compared to pc's. New iMacs will run at least 1800 on up.
2. Go for the 5K 27" models with SSD. The speed enhancement with the SSD is well worth it!
3. Cost will limit your boot drive storage if you get an SSC so think about a 2-3 TB external drive for storage. Keep only the operating system and applications on the main drive. Pics take a lot of space. You won't be sorry.
3. Go to Apple's web page and check the models available in the price range you can afford in the configuration you would like. You won't find much difference in prices where ever you search.

3. Check the refurbished models on the Apple site. Sometimes you will find exactly what you want at a lesser price than new

Ooops, I guess I was thinking the original post was for a Sony RX 100 IV instead of an RX 10. Although I still don't understand why there would even be an option to take pics without a card!

I am a bit confused as I have an RX 100 III and I cannot take any pics WO a card inserted. In fact I get a a flashing red warning signal if I try to take a pic without a card. And I cannot find anywhere in the menu a place to disable/enable the warning.
Anyone else have the same response?

A sort of brute force way and probably not as fast as you would like: Just create a folder on your Mac in a location that is convenient. Then simply highlight and drag your photos from your camera card (SD?) into the folder. Depending on how many photos you have, go have a cuppa something until all photos are copied. Then select them one at a time to judge/keep/trash them. OSX will show you the pic in a thumbnail as you select them. If your photos are in RAW format each pic will take probably too long for you to see, so an alternative is to select all of them, press the space bar and you will get all of the pics with a choice of format - single or catalog. Look at the upper left hand corner and you will see 5 checkboxes. 1st to close the pics, 2d to select a full screen slide show option, 3d to move back one pic, 4th to advance one pic and 5th to see all the pics in a catalog format. You can review the pics, note the ones you want to get rid of and then go back to the folder and trash the ones you don't want. And you can then reorganize your photos into other folders, etc.
Then go to Lightroom and import the pics from the folder(s) you have created.
Personally, I use LR to import directly and then reorganize, etc. through LR. Remember that the pics are not IN LR but in a folder that you selected on import. LR through its catalog system simply keeps track of what you want to do to the picture. And once you have the pics referred to in the LR catalog, you should only use the LR catalog to move/reorganize where your pics are.
Not sure if this answers your question, but this capability is part of the Mac OSX.
And by the way, I use the slide show function of OSX described above to quickly present selected pics. Not fancy but works great, is fast and free.

oops a little: Actually in the latest LR (7.3.1) there is a profiles tab. It is in the Basic Panel in the Develop module in the second row of choices. It appears however to only have Adobe standard choices. I checked this against a pic taken with a Tamron 18-400 zoom and a Sigma 18-250 zoom and the only choices under the profile tab in LR 7.3.1 were the Adobe Standard variations. Maybe someone else can comment.

Sounds to me like a great excuse to get a new camera! Have to convince the boss lady of a "great need" to expend the $$$!

As of the latest update to LR, the calibration option for a lot of the more popular cameras has been built into the calibration tab. Check out the You Tube on this by Anthony Morganti. I just found out about this after viewing one of his videos. Sorry I don't remember which one

Try this: Go to the "Pictures" folder on your Mac. You should see a folder labeled "Photos Library". Right click on that and you should see an option to "Show Package Contents". then you should see another folder labeled "Masters" within which will be some other folders. Keep on drilling down until you find the folders with the pics you want.

Photoshop Elements is a good editor but you have to make a one time purchase (<$100). I use standalone Lightroom for most post processing and the PSE for other things like adding text, moving/combining photos and selections. It has a RAW editor as well.

I think the issue is Sierra-Picasa compatibility. Sierra is the latest incarnation of Mac OS X and many older programs have had to be revised, etc. to be compatible. Since Picasa is an old program since discontinued some time ago, there is a big chance it has NOT been upgraded to be compatible. This has nothing to do with Safari as that is the Mac web browser.

Another try! I may be too impatient at waiting for the pic to load!

FYI: I have the standalone LR and hence no availability of Dehaze in that program. However, I have PSE 15 which does have a dehaze function so I decided to download the initial photo and see what PSE can do. Here is the result (with no further editing). Maybe not quite as good as with LR but I did NO additional processing.

FYI subscribers to Pop Photo:
I got my replacement for the Pop Photo subscription Mag yesterday (it was Popular Science..) and I found their #contact number. Called them and the agent was very polite and business like. Apparently the Bonnier Group is divided into sub groups and the Pop Photo people just transferred their existing subscriptions to Pop Sci. The agent simply asked what I wanted to do which was "cancel" which I did and I should be getting a check for the remainder of my account within the next 30 days. No hassle no questions.. Apparently it was an in-corporation transfer. The agent had no knowledge of the closure to the accounts for Pop Photo. Hope thin info helps.

Converters are an inexpensive way to increase focal length but generally three things can (not necessarily will)
happen: 1) focus becomes softer 2) f stop minimum is increased 3) auto focus may or may not work properly.
I know - I just got one (a Kenko 2x) without doing the proper research and have to live with the result. In order to use the Kenko I use manual focus even though auto focus seems to work with my Tamron 16-300 lens on a Nikon d5500.

I too have an Nikon F Photomic which is in great condition considering it to be over 50 years old. Regarding mirror lockup, the mirror will stay locked up until you make sure the setting on the ring around the shutter button is set to A (advance) rather than R (rewind). Obviously no batteries involved except for the "Photomic" unit which I found not very functional even when I first got the camera back in the '60s and thus went to just manual with a handheld light meter. Actually this was good because it forced me to really learn about the exposure triangle.