Metroin & JimRIT; I couldn't open the photos. I'd like to see it. I'm taking pics of mine now. My Email is kwg@gwtc.net . What is your E-mail? The Lynhof 8x10 Camera I have takes B&W & color negs that are just fantastic & so easy to handle. It has a 4x5 back also. I developed the B&W & Contact Prints. I'm 90 now & not mobile anymore & can't do a lot off things. It's in a thin Plywood box for protection but would need another good box around it to mail. I have lots of film holders

Cameraf4: I'm not failure with the term GAS. Could you tell me what it means? Some how that term has evaded me. ken

Jim Rit: I have a Linhof 8x10 with a lot of film holders I'd like to sell Keep me posted on your results. kwg@gwtc.net

SuperFly: Why don't you use the camera on Wildlife? ken

Welcome to the Fed X wrecking Crew Club. You deserve all you can get but there should be an Incompetence Compensation for the often delay also of use of a lens. The higher the compensation the more likely Fed-X will recognize the Fed-X Sport of Customer Football Management permits, is actually Detrimental to their Profits.

blaks2: What filter did you use for the pictures. I'd like to get started in infrared photography

To Cany143: That 50mm Collapsible Summicron Leica lens is incredible. It's even resolves slightly better than the standard 50mm lens & a Nikon Macro. Years ago I ran lens resolution test on those 3 & many others (Coke Bottle bottoms in comparison) with a 2 different high resolution films (High Contrast Copy Film & one was even the Spectroscopic 649 - resolved 1000 lines/mm) the highest resolution film Kodak made. I even got it to work like normal film but the ASA was .25 or .025 I think it was. The higher the resolution the slower the speed. I'd measure the light using a 25 ASA & then open up or increase shutter time 10 stops. A 35mm film could make Billboards prints - it was literally grainless). Not exactly a hand held film. Today a resolution comparison can be checked in a modern camera. Running lens resolution tests on Pan X of the day was a total waste of time. It maxed out at 100 lines/mm & wouldn't fully resolve the best lenses of the day. The Leica 50mm Collapsible lens gave the highest resolution of all lenses I tested at F4. I even used it in my Leitz enlarger. In normal cropping of a 35mm film it worked great. But if I wanted to do a full frame 8x10 I had to use F8 at a slight reduction in resolution. Camera lenses have a rounded sharpness field. Enlarging lenses need a flatter field out to the edges of the flat enlarging paper. Is there any way I could use the Collapsible 50mm on a new Mirrorless Nikon I'd like to try it? I have a lathe & I can make mounts if I have to. I have no trouble with manual focusing. Leica designed that lens using a Slide Rule & Bare Hands literally - not a Computer. Even Kodachrome Slides showed increased resolution.

How about showing some sample 8x10 comparisons & portions of big prints of both so one can see the difference. I'd like to rent a medium format digital but would like to see the difference, also between jpeg & raw blown up. I keep hearing of it but never see any comparisons!

john gerlach: I know what happens when a dark object comes into the image but what did you mean about waiting for the first "Blinkies" come into the image. I can seen where you are going there but I hadn't heard of Blinkies before. ken 605 729 2077

If this was photoshopped, which leg on the lion has the wrong shadow angle, upper or lower part?

The following suggestions are based on 70 years use of binoculars under a variety of conditions. I find 6P binoculars more useful overall as the reduced Jitter or Wigglitus adds detail to the image you won't see with higher powered binoculars unless held very steady. Hand held is the most often used support for shorter periods of time & the least useful. You will also observe many times longer with less eye strain. Only if you have a good solid arms supported position you can take advantage of the higher powers. The depth of field is greater the lower the power requiring less refocusing and the field of view is progressively less the higher the power. Leupold has a great 6P binocular for less than $100 & if stolen or abused somehow the loss is many times less & I have 2 of them in case. I carry one in the car for reading street signs ahead when too small. At the end of a hunt I've often given them to my guide. I made a believer out of them. They are often smaller also & more often to be taken with you. I also have a 8" flexible bipod off my chest for additional support that helps all of them. Get both lens focused properly to each eye improves detail also. For a brighter image in all binoculars use the equivalent of a small photographers black focusing cloth over & around the eyepieces & your forehead. There is less light fogging of the eye lens from side light also. A lens hood is used to reduce fogging of the lens. You can look more in the direction of the sun also with a brighter image & more detail. You will get more use out of & carry the shirt pocket binoculars using the black cloth also. This blocks side light to your eye which also closes the pupil down a stop or 2. It opens the pupil up for a brighter image in the darker areas where it is needed the most. The bright areas don't need more light. Binocular jitter or Wigglitus is the major disadvantage of the higher power binoculars along with their excessive cost. WWII 7x50 binoculars were just great, very bright & often very cheap. Leica people have often told dealers "you will see more with a 7P" & is often what they often personally use. Put up a newspaper with different size print & compare a 8P to a 12P as too what size print you can read hand held. Higher power is easier to sell in the store (their main goal) but less useful in the field. Make sure you get a full field view with your glasses on. The 10-12P binoculars are often not very useful but more profitable for the manufacture & dealer. Keep the lenses clean also. The cheap 12P & 12-50p Binoculars frequently sold are profitable unfortunately for some of the big manufactures who actually make the good stuff but virtually USELESS. They are like the food industry who sells junk food as it is profitable but is bad for your health. Fraud & Deception are the King Pins of business today - not your benefit. Ken

Unless you are on a tripod 1/125th is too slow for any shot if you expect to see any benefit of a Macro lens. With the hi resolution possible now & then blown up in a computer you will be able to see differences in sharpness with different F-Stops & shutter speeds hand held or tripod. Run tests on

What was the camera & ISO setting, shutter, lens etc

I'll ask again. What film were these B&W pictures converted from?

You don't say what these pictures were converted from what other film? ken 605 7292077