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Posts for: tjphxaz
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Apr 9, 2016 14:52:23   #
OddJobber wrote:
With film, as soon as the shutter was hit, it was time to start anticipating the next shot.

For digital, a lot of good reasons for chimping have been given, and I still chimp, just as not as much now.


Worn from checking sharpness and detail which, for the most part, can't be fixed in PP. :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Apr 9, 2016 13:33:43   #
jerryc41 wrote:
"Chimping" refers to the practice of looking at your LCD after every shot and going, "Ooh! Ooh!" Yes, the camera did the take the picture. What a surprise. If you are shooting in Auto, or you have decent experience with a camera, you can be pretty certain that the shot will turn out okay. Unless you're tethered to a computer screen or an iPad, that tiny LCD on the camera isn't gong to reveal the fine points of the photo. Too much chimping can make you look like an amateur and even cause you to lose good shots.

When I'm out doing a lot of shooting, I turn the LCD off. It's a distraction, and it uses up the battery. One little poke at that Review arrow can show me the image if I have to see it.

Okay, it's your turn. Let the attacks begin! :D
"Chimping" refers to the practice of loo... (show quote)


Since you joined UHH, you average 37.6 posts per day and regularly parrot multiple Google-searched links in your responses. Therefore, you have proven computer skills. Have you turned off the monitor? :)
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Apr 4, 2016 13:16:33   #
repleo wrote:
I know how to use Exposure Compensation (EV+/-) on my camera and have been using it for years. However, I just realized I don’t really understand how it works. What is the EV+/- dial actually changing – Aperature? Shutter speed? ISO? Is there some extra dimension to exposure that I don’t know about? Does changing the EV have any impact on Depth of Field or noise?


I shoot Nikon so that is the terminology I will use. EC works only in P,S,A shooting modes.
If Auto ISO is On, In P, A,S shooting modes adjusting the EV will change ISO to achieve the desired exposure.
If Auto ISO is Off (i.e. you have selected a fixed ISO), then in A and S modes, the EV adjustment will change the factor you are not setting (i.e. in A mode you set desired aperture and adjusting the EV will change shutter speed, in S mode the aperture will change). In P mode, the EV adjustment will change both aperture and shutter speed to yield the desired exposure.
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Mar 14, 2016 10:39:25   #
Steve S wrote:
What lens would you buy for the D750? Thanks.


I can endorse the lenses I have: Nikon 16-35mm f/4 for wide angle landscapes; Nikon 50mm f/1.4 for low light situations when flash isn't permitted and for street photography; Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 for indoor action/sports. The lens that stays on the camera for grab and shoot/general purpose is the Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8. The lens that goes on the camera for travel is the Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6.
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Mar 14, 2016 10:28:44   #
FiddleMaker wrote:
I need to get either a Darrel Young or David Busch book on the D750.
Do you have a preference ?? I need a book where I don't have to jump all over the place looking for info. That's why I don't like the D750 manual. Also the D750 manual's print is way too small. I did download the PDF version and so I can make the print as big as I want but I am still hopping back and forth looking for stuff. ~FiddleMaker


Busch book is thorough on the camera plus good photography tutorial. Also get his D750 field guide to keep in your camera bag instead of the manual. If only getting one book get the Field Guide.
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Mar 14, 2016 10:20:28   #
robtenn wrote:
I am looking to upgrade to an FX camera. I have several FX lenses. So far I am leaning toward the Nikon D750. Any thoughts about this camera? Should I consider a different model? Any feedback would be great.


Unless you need higher resolution 36MP of the D810 for making very large prints, and don't want to spend $4k or more on a body, the D750 is ideal. Good that you have FX lenses as some people moving from crop to full frame neglect to factor in new lenses needed to get the most from the new FF body.
What I like about D750: outstanding low light performance; little noise noticed up to 6400 ISO in most scenes; quick auto focus and no or little AF fine tuning needed with variety of lenses; articulating screen especially useful when shooting from a tripod and for low and high angle shots; feels comfortable and secure in larger hands as the recess of the right side grip is deeper; consider adding a Nikon D-16 battery grip to extend battery supply and provide a better balanced feel when handholding with larger lenses (70-200mm and bigger); good build quality and mid-range weather seal sufficient for my use.
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Mar 13, 2016 09:27:56   #
camerapapi wrote:
I also meant to say that I hope VR was off and the camera was on a tripod.


:thumbup: :thumbup:
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Feb 26, 2016 10:04:08   #
DerBiermeister wrote:
Thanks for the link -- great pictures. You don't happen to know how to get online editions of their recent issues do you? I browsed their website and couldn't find it.


Use the app Zinio to subscribe to the digital version.
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Feb 21, 2016 09:32:49   #
MiroFoto wrote:
A few days ago there was an excellent discussion on this topic, but I do not make it too long -> new one
Alternative 1. Half release/push of trigger locks focus and exposure . you need to hold it half all the time until you push full=take a picture. For next picture ..repeat.
Alternative 2. BBF set in f4 menu to Focus-On . Push it and it holds the focus (forever) . Half push release trigger holds the exposure . !! Each time you need a new focus you have to push/set BBF . If you want to cancel this function you must go thru the menu-f4.
Alternative3. BBF set in f4 menu to Exposure (Hold) . Push the BBF and exposure is locked (for 6 min) . Push the trigger and it focuses in half way and full push takes the picture. Second push of BBF releases this function and you are at Alt 1.
OK NOW - the question is :" How the menu c1 (on/off) changes these 3 functions above??? I have tried to combine these functions , but did not find any difference.
BONUS question is: Can I assign exposure to BBF and focus to Fn button ? So I can use both or choose one? I tried, but it din not work that way for me.

Is there anybody who knows the answers..i finally got confused and gave up. Thank you

Miro
A few days ago there was an excellent discussion o... (show quote)


Check this excellent video by Steve Perry http://youtu.be/FzqQskGoURE
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Feb 15, 2016 10:20:17   #
rmorrison1116 wrote:
I just read a posting about a dropped lens and immediately remembered the last, and hopefully last, time I dropped a lens.

It was a few years ago and it was an almost brand new Tamron SP 70-200 f/2.8 lens. I was removing the lens from its case and it somehow slipped out of my hands and landed face first at an angle on the pavement below.

I generally do not use UV filters when taking photos as they only add an extra layer of glass for the light to pass thru. But, when the lens is not in use I always put a UV filter on it for added protection.

The then $1500.00 lens hit the concrete with a nasty thud. I uttered a few four letter expletives then picked up my lens. The glass was cracked and the rim was bent at the point of contact.

I then removed the $10 UV filter that saved my lens, mounted the lens to the camera body and went about taking photos. On the way home I stopped at the local camera shop to pick up a replacement filter. The sales person tried to sell me some special quadruple coated specifically designed for digital cameras super deluxe UV filter for like $80 or some outrageous price. I said, just give me the cheapest one you've got, its only purpose is a companion for the lens cap.
I just read a posting about a dropped lens and imm... (show quote)


Google Steve Perry lens filter test on You Tube. He does a thorough job of testing the protective value of lens filters while breaking quite a few old lenses in the process.
For me, the better protection comes from keeping the lens hood on. I put a strip of gaffer tape on the hood to secure it to the barrel.
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Feb 13, 2016 23:27:16   #
Bill MN wrote:
Does it come with an owners manual?


Mine did. I also downloaded to iPad from the Nikon.USA website.
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Feb 12, 2016 23:57:15   #
chemdoc wrote:
Thanks everyone for all of the great comments and advice. It has given me a lot to think about. As suggested by many, I will definitely get the kit with the 24-120 for an extra $300, as I can always sell it on eBay and purchase a different lens if desired.

I know some of you have the 24-70 F/2.8 and I am curious as to the image quality of the new version with VR compared to the older version without. Since I shoot mainly on a tripod, I wonder if it would be worth the extra $600 unless there are other improvements besides VR.
Thanks everyone for all of the great comments and ... (show quote)


Again, check the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 which has image stabilization. Less than half the price of the new Nikon 24-70 VR. The Tamron tested better than the Nikon older 24-70.
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Feb 10, 2016 22:42:05   #
chemdoc wrote:
I am looking to upgrade my Canon T4i to a Nikon D750 and am interested in some advice on lenses. I have read on a multitude of posts the importance of getting the highest quality lenses possible and want to make the best choices I can.

The D750 currently comes bundled with the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm f/4G ED VR Lens for only $300 more than the price of the body alone on B&H while the lens alone costs $1100. I shoot mainly landscape and fly fishing/landscape photos and almost always use a tripod and the articulated screen on my T4i to compose the shots.

I am very interested in the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 16-35mm f/4G ED VR Lens as this has excellent reviews and is the perfect range for landscapes. On my current camera I use 10-18 and 18-135 mm lenses and rarely shoot beyond 100mm which is 160 mm in FF. The 24-120 lens is a great range but I wonder if it would be better to sell it new and use that money to invest in something like the Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR Lens.

My key question is whether the 24-70 lens is higher enough in quality to justify the cost. I have had several images grace the covers of fly fishing magazines this past year and want to have high quality images when I submit them. However, if the image quality of the 24-70 is not noticeably superior to the 24-120, than perhaps the extra cost would not be justified.

I would appreciate any advice and input from those of you who have used these lenses. Thanks.

Phil
I am looking to upgrade my Canon T4i to a Nikon D7... (show quote)


I have D750 and for your specified uses suggest the Nikon 16-35 f/4 for landscapes, and Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 for fly fishing. The Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 is higher rated than Nikon and less $. A terrific walk-around lens. A good tripod and ballhead rated at least 22lb as well.
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Feb 9, 2016 23:51:47   #
CO wrote:
I just got that book from Rocky Nook. I bought the bundle with the ebook download and printed book. I think it's excellent. The chapter - Field Techniques, Methods, and Tips is great. They'll have recommended settings for photographing say a basketball game and then discuss techniques. For some reason they forgot to send my printed books initially but after an email they put in the order again and I got them.

I also got "The Digital Zone System Taking Control from Capture to Print" at the same time.
I just got that book from Rocky Nook. I bought the... (show quote)


Very good book. I agree with this post. :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Feb 9, 2016 23:46:08   #
DaveO wrote:
You might also opt for a "manual" by David Busch or Darrell Young or other recommended authors. (Amazon) I've picked up a couple by Busch and successfully use them. Easier and more in depth than the Nikon manuals,at least to me.


Get Busch's field guide to the D7200. As good as the manual, wire bound, travels well.
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