Right you are...I accidentally posted the color corrected hdr image....here is the final version after vertical corrections.

Here is a sample solution to the problem you mentioned....five images taken with bracketed exposure and one off-camera flash during the middle exposure. It was then processed in Photomatix HDR. A little post processing was then done in Photoshop to increase saturation.

For some great practical suggestions for travel photography (or photography in general), check out Timothy Allen's site on Human Planet: http://humanplanet.com/timothyallen/2011/07/take-better-travel-photographs/
Of particular interest is the use of "back button" focusing. Once you have tried and gotten the hang of it, you will never go back to front button focusing on the shutter release. I do a lot of yacht racing photography on the water and find this technique invaluable for a 95% "in-focus" rate.

Check out my website: www.stevejostphotography.com
Every image has been shot with A D200 and the Nikon 18-200 VR zoom.

I had the privilege of attending several seminars with Ansel Adams back in the early 70's and to witness the processing of a final image. In spite of the Zone System, an 8x10 camera and hand-mixed chemicals, many of his images took hours of manipulating in the darkroom to achieve that incredible range of B&W tones that he became so famous for achieving. The HDR process basically just expands the dynamic range which the eye can see and transfers it to a two-dimensional image with similar tone ranges. Just remember....everything in moderation!

I've found that images which have been enhanced with HDR processing or filter plug-ins such as Topaz Labs or NIK software make spectacular MetalPrints, particularly when enlarged over 20".
I also use Bay Photo and have never been disappointed.

For an easy learning curve, I might also suggest Picasa. I use Lightroom and Photoshop CS5 for most of my work but always recommend Picasa for newcomers to digital image processing.

I have always admired the work of Morris and Stanley Rosenfeld, the great yachting photographers who had to work on the water with large cumbersome cameras. I now try to emulate their work, using digital enhancements to bring a new type of beauty and excitement to my images. A few samples attached.

I have to agree that buying your own scanner for large volumes makes sense. I also have a Nikon Coolscan for 35mm slides. Scancafe is just one of many good labs if you only have a small quantity, or don't have the time to process that many images.

For all of you in the cold weather, here is a CA Christmas card made using Photomatix HDR software and Topaz Labs filter

You might want to check out www.scancafe.com for slide scanning. At 29 cents a scan they are hard to beat and the quality was excellent. Price included color correction and removal of dust.....and you can decline 20% of the scans in not satisfied.

A Baby Brownie Reflex in 1947. It used 127 film....Verichrome Pan for B/W and Kodacolor for color prints...the only film available locally.
Every camera afterwards was a twin lens reflex til I started my own business in 1964.

The original version was first processed with Photomatix HDR software and then run through the Topaz Lab "Painting Oil" Preset. It usually takes a little experimenting with several filters to find the right combination that works for me.
I also find it important to use a new Layer for the filters so that they may be "dialed down" a bit .

If I'm not mistaken......only works with Windows OS?

Check out: www.stuckincustoms.com for a very informative tutorial on HDR.