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Jan 2, 2018 21:16:29   #
Teleconverter (Nikon 1.4X) works fine on my 80-400 "G"
, perhaps not on older version,


markstjohn wrote:
I have from many years ago a Nikon 80-400 VR lens. It seems to work well with my new Nikon D810. I will be traveling soon and want to be able to take long distance pictures of birds and wildlife. Would the Nikon 200-500 be much better? I think I can use a teleconverter with it, but not with the 80-400. On the other hand the 200-500 is much larger and heavier. Would I really want to take both of them? So my question is would the newer 200-500 be much superior to the older 80-400? thank you for your thoughts...
I have from many years ago a Nikon 80-400 VR lens.... (show quote)
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Mar 5, 2017 15:01:34   #
The referenced link has nothing to do with the question



BooIsMyCat wrote:
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Feb 7, 2017 10:50:13   #
Well I down loaded into photoshop, used the "Select focus" tool which indicates that the best focus was in the pile of wood chips down and to the right of the bird
used the "shake reduction" tool which provides a graphic of the measured shake at selected portions of the pic
it shows minimum shake in the previously noted region, with shake increasing as you move away from that area, the direction of shake varies with location

I think this indicates twisting of the camera during exposure
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Nov 17, 2016 10:21:52   #
Davethehiker wrote:
I just did the latest PS CC upgrade and notice that Nix Filters are no longer listed on my Filters options. Can I reinstall them or are they no longer compatible? I see the Nix filters are now free that worries me, because nothing worth while is free.


When PS is updated the old version is deleted except for the "Plug-ins", on my MAC navigate to Applications/Adobe Photoshop CC "Old version"/plugins/filters and find the NIK stuff, in my case they were in a folder labeled "Google", copy these to to the Filters folder of the new version

AS others have noted you can also reinstall from the Google site
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Aug 12, 2016 10:20:59   #
I have this exact combination on a D800 I find it to be marginally useful except on bright sunny days and then when used on a monopod or tripod
Yes the image is enlarged, but slightly degraded sharpness
chromic aberration definitely degraded

Overall some improvement in bright light for birds etc

It might be more useful on a camera with fewer pixels
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Jul 28, 2016 10:20:07   #
27 inch iMac with two monitors Bridge CC2015 release 6.3.0.177 works fine , bounces a few time then runs fine, sounds like Adobe has problem with routine that verifies that your license is valid
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Jul 3, 2016 11:22:29   #
Well thats not very nice of Adobe, I was having trouble with "select and mask" turned off "Graphics processor" and all was better except lost scrubby zoom along with other GPU functions , lost graphics processor functions in ACR also (after ACR crashed my computer)

So we update and without warning lose some important functions, does this apply to any GPU or just some? do I need to get a new GPU?
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Jun 29, 2016 15:58:17   #
jeep_daddy wrote:
Funny, the first time I started CC 2015.5, it popped up a message saying that it disabled my Graphic Processor because of some compatibility issue.


Thanks for the tip I recently noticed after upgrading to CC2015.5 and/or Camera Raw 9.6 that the Zoom / drag function that relies on the graphics processor stopped working, infact it caused a major system crash . which was resolved by a reboot .. Interestingly the same function works fine in CC2015.5

I do not remember getting any notification from Adobe, but it is reassuring to know that the graphics processor issue is a known phenomena and not a hardware issue in my system
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Apr 26, 2016 09:46:48   #
Gene51 wrote:
Here is your relevance:

http://photographylife.com/exposing-to-the-right-explained

And in the majority of my images found here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gene_lugo/

I don't have comparisons because I don't waste time on proving the obvious to myself or others. I use ETTR 100% of the time to get correct exposures. Since I shoot manual exposure, there are times when I shoot a fast moving subject in changing light and make a mistake on exposure because I didn't get a chance to read and adjust in time to get the exposure I needed.

Having shot film for many years, and in particular, cut sheet large format, the opposite - expose to the left, was the rule - to minimize the chance of missing shadow detail.

In digital and with reversal film, there are benefits to exposing to the right. In cases of average or below average contrast, you record more information over the noise level, so shadows are less noisy. In this case you generally lower your exposure in post processing.

When you have high contrast situations, it is the only way you can avoid clipping important highlights (not specular highlights, streetlights in night scenes, etc) - the shadows will be murky and will take more effort in post processing to reduce noise, improve contrast and detail, but the result is usually worth the effort. In high contrast lighting I find that I often need to reduce both the highlights and exposure, and lighten the shadows.

ETTR along with the zone system, are two techniques that are worth mastering. It leaves less to chance.
Here is your relevance: br br http://photographyl... (show quote)


Finally someone who makes sense :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Apr 20, 2016 12:38:29   #
inbigd wrote:
I was wondering - when a cropped sensor camera crops the center part of an image then magnifies it to fill the frame is there a loss of quality compared to if a full frame camera with a lens of the equivalent greater length (200mm vs 300mm) was used to take the same exact sized image?

If a picture of the moon is taken with a cropped sensor at 200mm and with full frame at 300mm would the images be the same?

And how does a cropped sensor 'upsize' the part of the image it crops so that it 'fills the frame'?

thanks
I was wondering - when a cropped sensor camera cro... (show quote)


Go to
https://photographylife.com/sensor-crop-factors-and-equivalence

and read the article, ignore much of what you will see posted on UHH

" Increased Reach" as used by cropped sensor vendors means "reduced field of View" NOT "ability to go out and grab something"
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Apr 19, 2016 17:49:19   #
brucewells wrote:
The article 'linked' at the beginning of this post is rather good, and it's from a knowledgeable source. As he points out in the article, there are tons and tons of misunderstanding about this subject.

Despite its length, it's a great read.


I agree, anyone who wants to use the word "Reach" in a post should be required to read this article before posting.
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Mar 13, 2016 11:17:28   #
amfoto1 wrote:
You actually don't need to do any math at al..., unless you are using both camera formats together or changing formats for some reason.

100mm is 100mm... regardless of what camera it's used upon.

The sensor size (or film frame area) determines how that 100mm lens "behaves"...

- On a large format 4x5" film camera, 100mm is a very wide angle
- On a medium format 6x7cm film camera, 100mm is a standard lens.
- On a "full frame" digital or 35mm film camera, 100mm is a short telephoto.
- On an APS-C film camera or DSLR, 100mm is a moderate telephoto
- On a point-n-shoot digital with a tiny sensor, 100mm would be a super telephoto.

If you only ever use an APS-C camera, none of this really matters. You can buy either type of 100mm - "crop only" or "full frame-capable" - and it will behave as the same 100mm moderate telephoto on your camera.

A common difference is that "crop only" lenses can be smaller, lighter and often less expensive than "full frame" lenses. This is because the crop only lens doesn't need to produce as large an image circle in order to cover the smaller size sensor. Most APS-C cameras can use both. Full frame cameras are limited to full frame-capable lenses only, and those lenses tend to be larger, heavier and more expensive.
You actually don't need to do any math at al..., u... (show quote)


:thumbup:
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Feb 23, 2016 18:09:16   #
mikeroetex wrote:
I must be reading this backwards. It appears you are saying that a yet to be released, 24mp DX camera will have better looking, less noisy photos than a 36mp FX camera. Lenses being the same?


Well who knows, but the pixel density of the sensors being essentially the same (larger sensor having more pixels), and the D500 a generation newer, it is possible that that it will have less noise than the D810
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Feb 11, 2016 12:54:03   #
Linda Roina wrote:
Has anyone updated their Lens Distortion firmware on their cameras? I have a Nikon D800 and I can't seem to get it installed. I've done this before but this time I must be doing something wrong. Thanks in advance for your help.


I successfully upgraded my D-800 using my MAC
I found the entire process to be extremely convoluted and confusing- nothing is intuitive

There must be a better way
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Jan 26, 2016 22:50:56   #
Apaflo wrote:
So lets consider some examples for a few cameras.

Camera Max. Saturation Capacity Electrons
Canon 1D MIV 47756
Canon 1DX 90101
Canon 5D MIII 70635
Canon 7D MII 29544
Nikon D3300 35989
Nikon D3s 84203
Nikon D4 118339
Nikon D4s 128489
Nikon D610 74971
Nikon D750 81608
Nikon D800 48818
Nikon D810 78083


Hi quality sensors with a full well capacity greater than 32,768 electrons are not unusual.
So lets consider some examples for a few cameras. ... (show quote)


The numbers you refer to represent one end of the dynamic range, the high end or saturation , the low end is related to the lowest usable value which is related to the noise level. For example when the RMS noise is equal to the average signal. Or perhaps when SNR=3 dB. The ratio of saturation to lowest usable is the dynamic range. Either number by itself is only part of the story
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