Is there any way to get the virtual horizon to display as an overlay on the Sony A7S? I can find it with the display button, but that displays everything but the scene.

Thank you for your reply. Your point is agreed with by many people, but in sample images available on several Internet sites, purple fringing is removed with the 2A filter. The trouble is, all of the examples I've found are city-oriented, where high altitude more intense UV is not an issue. Thanks again for your reply.

I make a lot of images in the mountains, particularly in Yosemite and the Sierras. In my film days, I found that using a Haze 1A filter was helpful in some situations. Now that I shoot almost entirely digital, and I don't usually use a haze filter, even for "protection." I understand that the 2A filter removes virtually all UV light, but some complain that it also takes some of the purple as well. For a Zeiss Batis 18mm lens, the filters are 77mm, which can be quite expensive. Tiffen makes a 77mm 2A filter. Does anyone have experience with 2A filters, Tiffen or otherwise?

Thanks for the suggestions. After Christmas, I'll look at it again.

Last month (November 2018) I went to Yosemite with my relatively new Sony RX-10ii. I tried making some stitched panoramas with it, and the results are satisfying (though not perfect). I'm posting a couple of them now.

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Have you considered the DxO Optics Pro 11? I begin post-processing by having it convert the raw file. It has some powerful tools. From there I take images to PS Essentials and/or Photomatix Pro, although I don't always want to use Photomatix. It depends on the image.

I recently acquired a Sony RX10M2. On my SDXC memory card, it automatically records videos and stills in separate directories. That's fine. When I want to record stills in both RAW and JPG, is there a way I can get those files sent to separate directories?

If you stop learning, you stop growing and improving....

In my 64 years of using cameras, in the film days, I shot more award-winning images with my Canon AE-1 than with any other. I preferred shooting with Kodachrome 64, but I also used K-chrome 25 and 200. When I shot on Ektachrome I developed and mounted my own slides. Still, I have fond memories of that AE-1.

We had a dusting of snow last night, so this morning I decided to take advantage. I took my Sony HX100V point-and-shoot, set it up to bracket +/- 1 stop, and made six images at f/2.8 at ISO-100 -- while simply sitting on the porch of my apartment. Then I stitched the bracketed /HDR images together with Microsoft's Image Composite Editor (ICE). The individual image sets were assembled with Photomatix Pro 5.0 and optomized for contrast. As panoramas go, I think it ended up a little too wide for my taste. Horizontally, it's about 160 degrees. Feedback, please!

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Photography has been my hobby for more than six decades. When I began phasing in digital, I had to learn to use LCD displays. The early ones were painfully tiny, but even the larger ones can be frustrating in sunlight. I have learned to appreciate having exposure data in the viewfinder, and I see it as an improvement over live displays. Over the years, I've used cameras from most manufacturers. In recent years, I've rented equipment when going on vacation, but as my eyes have gotten older, the importance of good viewfinders and displays has become more important.

When I rented a Nikon D800e, I was very disappointed in the viewfinder. I was also disappointed in the viewfinder of the Sony RX1r. The viewfinder of the Sony A6000 was pretty good. I have not rented a Canon in the last few years.

What do UHH readers say? How do you like the viewfinders of such cameras as the Sony A6500 or the Sony RX100iv, particularly in bright sunlight? Are there good viewfinders with Panasonic, Canon, and Nikon? Do you have to press the viewfinder to your eye so much in sunlight that you get eye sweat on it? Is your viewfinder clear and bright? Does your nose get sore when you press your camera to your face?

Is there an Internet URL where the viewfinders of various cameras are compared?

I agree. There's no raw or DNG output, but you can save as a TIFF, which can be very useful. I've also made note of the fact that good quality panoramas can be made with P/S cameras. This pano stitched from images made just outside my apartment was made with an old Sony HX100v, whose sensor is very small. I turned the camera vertically, set it to its widest zoom setting, and made four images. Each image was HDR bracketed +/- 1 stop. After processing them in Photomatix Pro, the four resulting images were stitched with ICE and cropped. PS Elements 9 was used to do a bit of final tweaking. I've not attempted a large print with it, but the result is surprisingly satisfying.

Check out this article from LensRentalsa.com. This article, along with others, addresses the issues related to protecting the front lens element. https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/05/yet-another-post-about-my-issues-with-uv-filters/

Thanks, Rich. I had similar experiences. ICE may be an old program, but it works smoothly, and it seldom has given me any problems. Thanks again for the example.

As a minimum, use full-frame format. Medium format is better because magazine editors are very particular about the "look" they are expecting. It is not merely a matter of megapixels. Other than this, the camera brand and lens are not nearly as much of an issue as you might think. Shooting pet pictures usually calls for a full-frame 85mm or longer focal length. Macro lenses of that focal length or better yield excellent results.