try your portrait setting, see if you can pick up an inexpensive diffuser that snaps over your flash, this will help to lessen redeye from the bare flash. bring extra battery & memory card. you can use the flash outside too, it helps fill in shadows on faces. try to have people face away from the sun so they don't squint. learn how to adjust the flash power, try -1.7 for a gentle fill. use a small note card because you won't remember everything, don't panic & have as much fun as possible!!!!

the 18-200 sells for 299.00, ask 150 to 175.00ish. the 18-270 sells in the mid 600 range, ask 400ish. if they pay 290 it may sell for 400 to 450.00? very much up & down the scale in values. are these lenses soft at max extension?

here's another opinion, if you're interested. the d300 is a fine camera, the af is quite fast & by adding the nikon grip you get 8 fps. the grip makes the camera heavier & more stable which is handy when panning birds in flight. you will need to spend extra money to get the grip, battery & charger, all of which can be found used. i have almost always bought used gear & have never ever had an issue of any kind. the d2x is an awsome camera also, great for sports & wildlife. i think it has a longer shutter life & you could be shooting right away instead of buying extra pieces. i don't think af speed would be an issue at all witth either one. tough choice, best of luck to you.

the biggest advantages of a grip are generally longer shooting sessions, the weight & mass give more stability & usually higher frame rates [d300 goes from 6 to 8 frames, which i find works well for sports & birds]

pop photo rated the tamron 90 macro as sharp as any they ever tested,it sells for 499.00. might try and find a used one.

nikon's controls seem fine to me because i have'nt used anything else, ever. i do want to try a lens adapter because canon's 100-400 f4 seems to be an outstanding lens for sports and nikon is too stupid to make one.

i agree that a slower shutter speed for props looks good, you will just have to practice panning to get sharp shots, this of course gets harder as the day goes on, especially with a fairly heavy rig. you might try a monopod instead of the tripod, it will at least let you rest a little.

hi, jc56. here are a few things you can try. first set the iso to auto, shoot the fastest shutter speed possible. if the camera has it use the af lock button with your thumb, this will allow you to recompose quickly. you might want to do some handheld shots, i find this to be easier than using a tripod all of the time, but it can be tiring after a long day. shoot with and without a polarizer, depends on the angle of the sun. try to get quartering shots as they show more of the plane and are just more interesting to look at. usually the slower planes start first so you can get used to the speeds before the fast movers show up. for interesting static shots, try to isolate various parts of a plane, which helps to keep unwanted people out of your shots. most of the static displays are behind ropes so a real wide angle lens will help if you want the whole plane in the frame. use the polarizer for canopy and cockpit shots where there is a lot of reflections. hope this helps a little, have as much fun as possible! regards, jeff

i hope i'm not hijacking this thread by asking this question. what is the purpose of using vr when doing macro photography? i assume that one would use a tripod all of the time with mirror lock up and cable release techniques. is vr not more for handholding? how can you do macro handheld? i do mostly sports but i do have a 100 mm tamron which is also a great portrait lens. mods can move this if necessaray. thanks jeff.

hi gynschwinn, if this lens still available please pm me at jeff.jtphoto@gmail.com and lets talk possibly trade and cash. thanks, jeff

kebler pass is in that area also, if i remember correctly, the largest aspen grove in the state? endless photo ops. nice dirt roads.

sell some really nice fast glass for a 28-300? curious. i have some vr glass but i don't think it's any better in low light than 1.4 or 1.8 glass. i just might be old school about that.

if you get a d300, the d200 will instantly turn into your backup camera! i also agree that having 2 of the same bodies makes for fewer mistakes in the heat of battle, especially if you only have one chance for a shot. if you are getting paid, knowing your gear is critical.

here is what a little research came up with. using nikon as an example because i have no experience with canon. and please, you guys this is for beginners so don't get bent. an example: nikon d70, still a nice camera that takes great pics, 200.00 on craigslist as is a 50 1.8 for 125.00 an 18-55 for 90.00, a 50-300 for 100.00, a 60 macro for 175.00, a decent velbon tripod for 125.00 some faster glass but also too pricy for starters. this setup would easily allow someone to learn how to take pictures. yes there are some drawbacks with the slower lenses, especially shooting sports but i think it is a good start. learn how to shoot, then see if you like it enough to get better stuff for what you want to shoot most. as you can see there is room for accessories with a 1000.00 budget. almost forgot about a flash, sb 800 for 125,00

georgia peddler, just because you think this question is silly, to the poster it is a legitimate concern. people join this forum to learn, not to be ridiculed. i just joined today myself & your response has me wondering why i did. go peddle your sarcasm somewhere else.