That is really cool and a great tip. Thank you!

On my computer copy is not on the list. It is shown with an icon at the top (or bottom depending on where the files are on my screen).

When I right-click on a file using WIN 11 I get the following pop-up menu. At the top, you will see icons for cutting and copying. The paste icon appears after copying and then right-clicking somewhere else.

Yes, Everything is great. You can find it at https://www.voidtools.com/

You didn't say what you wanted with restoration, but given how special this photograph is, I like the original very much.

Is it possible that you are also depressing the ALT key? For some sliders, if you hold down ALT while using the slider you might see all white.

Best,
Alan

You can use a free account at Hightail (https://www.hightail.com/) to send files up to 100MB.

I agree with the size issue. I have the medium with wireless connectivity and it is pretty large on the desktop. The tablet maps to the screen, unlike a mouse you have to move your pen a large distance on the tablet to get across the screen.

There is a Wacom setting where you can map the tablet differently and I have mine map a small portion of the tablet to the screen. I take the upper left corner of the tablet and map about 30% of the tablet to 100% of the screen

So, I am "wasting" a large part of the tablet. I think I would have been satisfied with the smaller tablet.

Best wishes

That looks very interesting. Another similar service is LensTag (http://www.lenstag.com/). They have a free service, but there are also paid upgrades that may interest some.

In addition to the responses about using continuous focus, a great reason to consider BBF, I like having the focus and exposure locks separated. This way I can view a scene and let auto-exposure make an estimate of the camera settings. If I don't like the settings I can change the location of the where the exposure is being taken by shifting the camera, lock in the new exposure by half-pressing the shutter button, move the camera back to my original composition, push the BBF button, and then complete the exposure by fully pressing the shutter button. By picking different areas of the scene to take the exposure from I can easily change the exposure setting by any number of F-stops.

In short, while I can leave the camera in either shutter or aperture priority, using this method, I come close to shooting in full manual mode ad I can do this without ever moving the camera from my eye. While I do shoot in manual mode, using this method I typically shoot in one of the automatic modes chosen by the nature of what I am shooting (moving things, DOF important scenes, etc.).

This poem gave me much to think about when my dog reached the end of his life.

The House Dog's Grave (Haig, an English bulldog)

I've changed my ways a little; I cannot now
Run with you in the evenings along the shore,
Except in a kind of dream; and you, if you dream a moment,
You see me there.

So leave awhile the paw-marks on the front door
Where I used to scratch to go out or in,
And you'd soon open; leave on the kitchen floor
The marks of my drinking-pan.

I cannot lie by your fire as I used to do
On the warm stone,
Nor at the foot of your bed; no, all the night through
I lie alone.

But your kind thought has laid me less than six feet
Outside your window where firelight so often plays,
And where you sit to read--and I fear often grieving for me--
Every night your lamplight lies on my place.

You, man and woman, live so long, it is hard
To think of you ever dying
A little dog would get tired, living so long.
I hope that when you are lying

Under the ground like me your lives will appear
As good and joyful as mine.
No, dear, that's too much hope: you are not so well cared for
As I have been.

And never have known the passionate undivided
Fidelities that I knew.
Your minds are perhaps too active, too many-sided. . . .
But to me you were true.

You were never masters, but friends. I was your friend.
I loved you well, and was loved. Deep love endures
To the end and far past the end. If this is my end,
I am not lonely. I am not afraid. I am still yours.


Robinson Jeffers, 1941

It also helps if you know the sport well to anticipate where and when the action will probably happen. Another part of the enjoyment of photography. I suspect the best bird and animal photographers I see on UHH have the same sense of anticipation.

Not for that photograph. I pushed the clarity a bit which, along with the higher ISO increases the graininess. I have found shooting hockey games involves lots of quality trade-offs like this. Dehaze, as you suggest, is another good tool in the toolkit. Global adjustments are not always great so I usually turn to local adjustments like cloning and healing to address reflections. It often depends on what is in the scene and how well healing will work.

Best,
Alan

All of the suggestions you have received are good--look for the photographers port (hole in the glass but few rinks have this in my experience), look for a place above the board to shoot from, etc. I have a few others to add.

1. Sometimes the penalty boxes are open to the ice and if you are associated with a team request to work the penalty box.
2. Same thing for the bench. If you can stay out of the way some coaches might allow you on a corner of the bench.
3. Go to the rink before the game you are interested in and practice a bit.
4. Play with higher ISO settings.
5. Remember to compensate your exposure so the ice is white!
6. Sometimes you can clone/heal reflections in post-processing or at least minimize them.

Here is an example of a hockey photograph I took through the class and composition and content aside, I think the quality is acceptable.

Best,
Alan

(Download)

Also, if you are using a backpack or camera bag you will often be asked to wear it in front of you (not on your back) when you are inside buildings.

Best,
Alan