Posts for: LoneRangeFinder
Nov 20, 2011 23:51:07 #
BUDDY36 wrote:
Well Stump; if you are a newbie like I am and do not undersatnd what fomatting is ( and yes I have been told) that would be one reason why someone would not format. I have searched thru my camera's menu and I am unable to find out anything about formatting except to read that you should!
So things are not always cut and dry; 1-2-3
Usually I am known as a well desplined person that is when I know what to do.
Buddy36
So things are not always cut and dry; 1-2-3
Usually I am known as a well desplined person that is when I know what to do.
Buddy36
What camera & model do you have? Mine is located under the tools menu (the icon is a wrench-- but yours may be different.)
Nov 20, 2011 20:35:52 #
cjkorb wrote:
The instructor in my photography class last summer... (show quote)
Erasing will leave protected images; formatting will clean the entire card. Many places recommend formatting the card over deleting only. Essentially, it prepares the card to receive information in the most optimal way. I don't know why one wouldn't do this. It's cheap insurance.
Nov 20, 2011 20:19:29 #
A.TOKER wrote:
Wow,news like this put a big smile on my face...
A big THANK YOU to all HadgeHogers and BIG HAG
for HadgeHogers who vote for my picture.
:D
cnd263 wrote:
And the winner of Ugly Hedgehog photo contest #2 is....(drum roll please...)...............A.TOKER. (Applause!!)
:thumbup:
Congratulations A.TOKER! I can't wait to see what the next conest will bring.
:thumbup:
Congratulations A.TOKER! I can't wait to see what the next conest will bring.
Wow,news like this put a big smile on my face...
A big THANK YOU to all HadgeHogers and BIG HAG
for HadgeHogers who vote for my picture.
:D
Congratulations! Nicely designed & composed.
Nov 20, 2011 20:11:50 #
dfalk wrote:
I usually do for macro shots, especially if getting really close, using extension tubes, etc.
Another "trick" I use (I moved and can't locate my remote release), is to set the timer to shortest time (2 seconds on my model) and then press the shutter and remove hand.
Nov 20, 2011 19:40:33 #
cjkorb wrote:
I have a question for all you DSLR users, when you buy a DSLR, do you automaticly get an all purpose lens for general shooting or is the price for body only and you pick out and pay for the lens you want? Some higher end mega zoom point & shoot cameras cost as much as an entery level DSLR
Depends. I researched a lot and picked a specific lens. Avoided the kit lens. Generally, they are made with more plastic and do not hold up as well.
Nov 20, 2011 19:29:16 #
I use the Manfrotto 322RC2. It is the model with a hand release. I like it a lot on my 190PROB. Sorry, I don't recall what it cost-- but I do think it was more than $100
Nov 20, 2011 19:04:47 #
sinatraman wrote:
best suggestion i have, go to amazon.com and order... (show quote)
Yes. Major props to Bryan Peterson. I'm lucky enough to have attended several of his seminars years ago-- and also to get a signed copy of one of his early books. He's a nice guy, too!
BTW, he's generally not as concerned about AWB, as many others are. In one of his online instructional videos, (Google him, he has several with some creative approaches to some photography "problems". Back to WB: he recommends (for outdoor works is setting to the "cloudy" setting... and concentrating on taking pictures.
Nov 20, 2011 15:47:28 #
greymule wrote:
Hey Stumpy-
Just curious. Is that a full frame image, or has it bee cropped?
Just curious. Is that a full frame image, or has it bee cropped?
About a 50% crop.... I guess that's cheating.
Nov 20, 2011 14:46:31 #
Couldn't find my dragonfly, but here's a fly. Hope it works...
Nov 20, 2011 14:07:35 #
JennT wrote:
very impressive!
adding a Tamron 180mm effort
adding a Tamron 180mm effort
Nice framing, Jenn.
Nov 20, 2011 13:28:17 #
dfalk wrote:
I agree but for the person on a limited budget do not ignore your "macro zoom" lens or kit lens.
This shot was taken with my "consumer level" Canon 28-135 Macro Zoom, hand held, sunlight:
http://www.dalefalk.com/photos/i-2SzkF79/0/M/i-2SzkF79-M.jpg
Nevada Chuck wrote:
And don't waste your time looking for a true macro lens among the zoom lenses on the market.
I agree but for the person on a limited budget do not ignore your "macro zoom" lens or kit lens.
This shot was taken with my "consumer level" Canon 28-135 Macro Zoom, hand held, sunlight:
http://www.dalefalk.com/photos/i-2SzkF79/0/M/i-2SzkF79-M.jpg
Nice! Shows what a skilled user can accomplish. Now just think what you could do with a "real" macro lens! <kidding!>
Nov 20, 2011 11:51:56 #
pdwoodswood wrote:
I routinely use a Canon 100mm macro that I origina... (show quote)
I have the Nikkor 105 Macro with VR, which I only use when using it in "non-Macro" instances. I never use AF when shooting macro. My one "design beef" with this lens is the two AF pre-sets: "full" and infinity-0.5m. It would make more sense, to me, to have replace the "full" preset with 0.5m-1:1. That might add some AF functionality at the Macro end for those of us with aging vision. I'm curious what presets are available on the Canon.
Nov 20, 2011 11:35:18 #
KimParks wrote:
These are great... I wish I could get shots like this. What do you shoot with, I bet it's not a Nikon D3100.
I have tried moon shots but it just looks like a white blob of nothing.
I have tried moon shots but it just looks like a white blob of nothing.
If your framing includes a lot a dark night sky, your camera's meter will probably over expose for the moon turning it into a "white blob of nothing". Start with your basic daylight exposure & bracket from there. In the "old days", this was referred to the "sunny 16" rule and was = to a shutter speed of 1/ISO and f/16. So if you set your camera on manual and using an ISO of 200, set shutter speed as close as possible to 1/200 with an aperture of f/16. You should then bracket from there. You should get more moon detail. Good luck!
Nov 20, 2011 09:05:10 #
JennT wrote:
Thanks, I checked
I like Mike Moats ' work!
I like Mike Moats ' work!
Do you have a link to his work?
Thanks!
Never mind!
Nov 20, 2011 08:59:26 #
hayesml wrote:
I am moving from film to digital - after going to the local camera shop I am considering using an adapter (from Fotodiox) and using my film lenses on a digital body.
I'm considering the T3i or the 60d bodies.
The Canon lenses are all SSC with FD mounts (silver ring type):
24mm f/2.8
55mm f/1.2
35-70mm f/2.8
135mm f/2.8
400mm f/4.5
Has anyone used film lenses with digital bodies? Do you recommend any other adapters?
Any help is appreciated.
I'm considering the T3i or the 60d bodies.
The Canon lenses are all SSC with FD mounts (silver ring type):
24mm f/2.8
55mm f/1.2
35-70mm f/2.8
135mm f/2.8
400mm f/4.5
Has anyone used film lenses with digital bodies? Do you recommend any other adapters?
Any help is appreciated.
Nikkor lenses work on Nikon Digital cameras without an adapter, but lose some functionality (AF, for example). I believe the same is true with Minolta lenses on Sony cameras, but I wouldn't swear to that. I've only used Nikon lenses with my D-300. Since I primarily used an old Macro lens there was little difference, because I would be manually focusing anyway.