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Posts for: druthven
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Nov 3, 2023 18:41:29   #
grandpaw wrote:
Just to let everyone know that I am smart enough to ask here I have already ask in the past and nobody had the answer so I thought I would give Nikon a try. I have ask here and done a lot of research with no results but I will ask again for those that think I wasn't smart enough to ask here first.

I have a Nikon Z6ii and as far as I can determine there is no way to lock the location of the focus point and I find it very annoying and causing me problems. Before I start getting the same answers that I got last time, I know that I can press the toggle button down and make the focus point go back to the center. I shouldn't have to do that constantly every time I pick up my camera. I use back button focus on all of my cameras and the toggle button is right under th BBF button and it gets pressed every time I pick up my camera and place my thumb on the BBF button which in turn touches the toggle button and it moves my focus point. Last time when I ask here I got all kind of remarks about it not bothering other members or how to double press the toggle to get the focus point back to center. If you have this camera and it doesn't bother you I am happy for you but it is annoying to me. I am not an English scholar so please do not take the time to make remarks about how I wrote or punctuated my post. If you do have helpful information I would very much appreciate it. Thanks for taking the time to read this and respond.

I can lock my focus on any of my DSLR nikons with a lever on the back of the camera. It seems to me this could be fixed with a software update.
Just to let everyone know that I am smart enough t... (show quote)


Have you tried the company you bought the camera from. If it's B&H I would think their staff would try to help. They are the most service minded company I have ever dealt with.
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Nov 1, 2023 18:41:37   #
Nigel7 wrote:
You want REALISTIC sharpness. Far too many photos spoilt by over-sharpening. Similarly over-saturation.


You said a mouthful. Two major processing mistakes.
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Nov 1, 2023 18:26:16   #
a6k wrote:
I agree that the iPhone is not a bridge camera and not as good as most "real" cameras. The Nikon shot is pretty sharp and a good snapshot. But...

The iPhone always uses the full available aperture and calculates exposure with shutter and ISO.

Your EXIF data on the two pics was very incomplete. I respect your decision to do that but it makes it hard to evaluate the pics.

I downloaded both pics and noticed that the Nikon shot is more than 2 MP but the iPhone shot is 444 KB. I'm not sure why that is since the iPhone should normally take a much bigger file.

My iPhone 6s and my iPhone 14 Pro take sharp pictures regardless of the light (see above). The noise will vary, of course, but your ISO appears from the EXIF to have been only 1000. It was 6400 for the Nikon. Your focal length for the iPhone was 77 so you used the telephoto lens which is F 2.8. The higher ISO for the Nikon suggests, at least, you stopped down a bit (manual exposure per EXIF).

The sensor on the Nikon is a DX (aka APS-C?). The sensor on the iPhone is tiny by comparison. So even though the iPhone has 12 MP (24 for the Nikon) the pixel sites are also much, much smaller. Larger sensors do better in low light. The APS-C format is greatly superior if all else is equal.

I am just trying to point out that the comparison may not be as obvious as those two shots suggest.

My first suspicion is that the iPhone shot is un-sharp due to camera motion. The peculiar color shift might indicate post processing but I have no information.

Again, I agree with you that an iPhone isn't a bridge camera. But I don't think the difference at reasonable enlargement levels is so great. The best camera is the one you have with you. Even better: have both!

The spider shot was taken through a double-pane window but has minimal motion blur because I was able to rest my hand on the glass. F1.8 at 1/215 sec. ISO 64. Filesize 1.8 MB. Again, the iPhone always shoots wide open. My point is that it's sharp and light level alone has no influence because of that.
I agree that the iPhone is not a bridge camera and... (show quote)


Thank you for the information and evaluation of my post. I've been "into" photography for 70 years now and with the digital age there's still a lot to learn. Much of the language, abbreviations, etc. are still Greek to me and your post has stimulated me to more investigation. If my Nikon image had come from my Raw image in LR it would have included a lot more EXIF data but I had not yet downloaded it to LR. The image was a jpeg downloaded onto the photos program that came with windows and I have not found any reference to EXIF in that program.

Outside of cropping and perhaps a little brightening there was no processing done. The color difference is probably due to the Nikon's white balance being set to 5000K.

Some of the blur could certainly be due to camera motion considering the iPhone's 1/25 sec exposure but looking at some of the stationary objects, railings and bench legs there also seems to be some subject movement.

The iPhone controlled all of the parameters of exposure so I can't speak to that. However I used the iPhone camera as most people would and the result was disappointing. I know there are programs that will allow user control of the phones camera but I have enough on my plate with the menus and controls of my Nikon D7100, D500 versus those of my Sony RX100 vii.

In retrospect with the help of your post perhaps I was a bit hasty in my condemnation of the phone camera but for whatever reason it failed in this particular case.

Nice spider.
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Oct 30, 2023 14:51:55   #
For Italy, France or for that matter anywhere else in Europe or the UK I would go with one lens, Nikkor 18-140 or if you're concerned about maximum length and don't mind the extra weight go with the 18-300. You will have to sacrifice carrying around the bulk and weight of an extra lens and also the prospect of changing lenses on the fly.
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Oct 29, 2023 14:09:56   #
genocolo wrote:
My “bridge camera” is an IPhone ProMax. Other than for wildlife maybe, what else do I need?


Under less than ideal conditions you tell me. Two photos, same subject from inside Reims cathedral. One with a Nikon D7100 and the other with an iPhone Pro. Had I not had my Nikon I would have been sorely disappointed.


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Oct 24, 2023 18:03:08   #
Manglesphoto wrote:
I just ordered a Thousand Oaks slip on solar filter for my 150-600 Sigma sports lens, so I can practice for the Apr. 2024 eclipse, which will be viewable from my back yard, but with a short drive 80-100 miles I can be close to the center of the path.
Since this will possibly be the last time in my life I will get to see/photograph a total eclipse of the sun I'm going for it.
I bought the slip on because making your own and getting it attached is a PITA!!! and at this time I can afford it, Just a few pennies less than $80
I just ordered a Thousand Oaks slip on solar filte... (show quote)


Having photographed both the 2017 total eclipse from Idaho and the annular eclipse here in Houston this year I feel I can offer some advice. As you mentioned, practice and experiment with ISO's and exposure times which before totality will be 1/500 to 1/1000 sec. When the filter is in place the screen will be totally black unless the sun is within the frame and at longer lens settings it is extremely difficult to locate especially when adjusting a tripod. You might have trouble even at 150mm. I used a 18-300 DX lens both times and routinely set the lens at 50mm or below to locate the sun and then zoom out. The times for the eclipse in Missouri are just before noon and thereafter so the camera will be pointed nearly straight up which leaves three options for focusing etc. Lying on your back, handheld, good only during the partial phases when shutter speeds are 500th to 1000th, using a tilt screen in live view, which I found very frustrating or beg, borrow, steal or buy a right angle viewfinder which I heartily recommend. During totality the filter removed but the shutter speeds are much longer making a tripod a necessity. Nikon has an excellent guide for eclipse photography called How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse, on line, www.nikonusa.com. I plan to be in central Texas for the eclipse. Lets keep our fingers crossed for clear skies.
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Oct 23, 2023 15:47:02   #
Ellen101 wrote:
I usually take photos with my Nikon camera but last week I was absolutley blown away with my cell phone camera.
I was doing a portrait shoot of two older women for a gallery. My camera battery died on me and I forgot to take another one. So, I used my cell phone camera and I was very taken aback how good the shots came out. The prints were amazingly clear.
How can this be ?


I have noticed that my I Phone does well in adequate light, outdoors, and can be enlarged or cropped nicely but in low light situations it fails. I have included two photos from similar originals and similar crops from inside a cathedral where flash is not allowed. A Nikon d7100, 1/50 sec, f5, ISO 6400 and one from my I Phone, 1/25 sec., f2.8, ISO 1000. Of course the Nikon is a 24mp camera where as the outdoor I Phone photos were 12mp and the one in the cathedral was only 6mp.
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Sep 23, 2023 17:11:47   #
vanderhala wrote:
I did exactly that last January in Joshua Tree National Park with my kids and grandkids: missed the last step on our first day walk and went down straight frontwards. I did not injure my hands (I play the violin) or arms, not my camera (hanging at my chest on the Peak Design clip), but sprained ankle and was in pain 3 weeks. The camera and lens were unscathed.

A badly sprained ankle is nothing to sneeze at, (I've been there), but all things considered you can count your lucky stars.
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Sep 23, 2023 15:16:09   #
vanderhala wrote:
I was going to say something similar but more generic: try not changing WHAT you carry but HOW you carry it . I use Peak Design clip on my backpack (sometimes a small backpack that holds almost nothing) so that the camera and lens handgun away from the midline ; the Cotton makes it hang in midline but being short that way I cannot see my feet! (Using D7200 with Tamron 18-400 or rarely 100-400). Hanging from waist is less comfy fir me as it sticks out and swings more .

I chose the belt since I can carry the camera on either right or left hip and away from the midline. Being 87 years old and not the mountain goat I was 50 years ago I would hate to trip and fall forward with a camera strapped to my chest.
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Sep 22, 2023 15:47:35   #
JJRoss0 wrote:
I have a Nikon D5200 with a Tamron 18-270mm zoom lens. I LOVE this camera, takes SUPERB pictures and Nikon has made it really easy to operate (even for "the wife".) Recently, I've been having problems with my shoulder and carrying this has been difficult.

Should I go with a mirrorless camera for less weight and, if so, which one do you suggest? The lens may be the issue for the weight; is there a similar quality zoom lens that has a lighter weight?

(I did Canon back in my 35mm days but really like the Nikon.)
I have a Nikon D5200 with a Tamron 18-270mm zoom l... (show quote)


Go to Cotton Carrier for multiple carry options. Their Sling Belt carries my D500 with an 18-300 quite easily with the weight on my waist, not my shoulder and leaves both hands free.
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Sep 12, 2023 19:05:17   #
While out and about I almost never have my D7100 or D500 with me so I consider myself lucky to have a vastly inferior instrument available to capture an image. While using a phone at least provides something, I am figuratively kicking myself for not having my Sony Rx100vii in my shirt pocket. Some people require only snapshots and the phone is perfect for them. The phone for all of it's drawbacks is still capable of producing good photos. If all Joe Rosenthal had was one of todays I phones I'm sure his photo of the Iwo Jima flag raising would have been just as dramatic.
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Sep 4, 2023 18:22:06   #
MG Audet wrote:
Here is a shot I took of the Blue Moon. Z9 with 400mm F/4.5 at 1/200 sec., F7.1, ISO 64. Shot in DX mode and cropped small amount.


I absolutely love this shot. If not the best, certainly one of the finest moon alone shots I have ever seen. Great composition. An ice blue moon indeed. It grabbed me from the moment I saw it. Wow!!
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Sep 4, 2023 18:11:22   #
texasdigital wrote:
All are good possibilities. Condensation is definitely a likely candidate. I did use manual focus, however, I am not 100% sure I took it off of auto ISO. I had been experimenting with auto ISO and it is possible I failed to take it off. I know the problem I had seeing the settings with glasses fogged up, so I have to consider that I did not remove auto ISO.

Again, I am trying this again. It won't be a full moon, but that shouldn't matter. In fact, I've read where partial moons are more interesting. I'll post when I shoot again.

Larry
All are good possibilities. Condensation is defin... (show quote)


Partial moons can indeed be very interesting. Check out the craters in this daytime shot.


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Sep 4, 2023 17:41:26   #
Solar Eclipses 2023: The Definitive Photography Guide I Photopills is a guide that will tell you everything you might ever wish to know about eclipses.

In 2017 I got a twofer, traveling to Idaho, photographing the total eclipse and also spending a day in The Grand Teton National Park with professional photographer Daryl Hunter. Included is an exposure of the eclipse and Daryl's shot of me photographing a cow moose. Grand Teton is a photographer's paradise.


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Sep 4, 2023 17:02:01   #
taylorzacre wrote:
Years ago, 1971 to be exact, a professor I had in college, teaching photography taught that the moon is reflected sun light and exposure is the same as bright sunlight!


Since the moon is indeed reflected sunlight sunny 16 would have been a good starting point. At ISO 64 that would have been 1/125 second at f11. I/640 second is 5 times less than the proper exposure. Are you sure the ISO was set on 64?
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