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Sep 29, 2018 16:07:16   #
Beercat wrote:
The high ISO capabilities of the a7 III along with a high dynamic range is what sold me.

Thanks for the kind words :)


Dont forget the silent shooting and eye-AF!!
...really tempted to get the A7iii as a backup to my 5Dmkiv.

Its about the only thing that I am missing for weddings and what I want in mirrorless.

I then would be able to hold the composition/framing of the bridewalk at low aperture and fire off 10-20 frames and pick the best leg/arm angles....knowing that 70-80% of the shots will be sharp.

The silent shutter for those pause moments / prayer time or general solemn moments where even the silent mode on a DSLR still gives a mushy but audible click.

My high ISO and DR are good enough on the 5DmkIV :-)

Jason Laniers video on adapted canon glass showed great eye-AF performance but it was great lighting. Would love to see how the eye-AF performs in low light (ie most weddings I shoot :-)

My 5d shoots in the dark and I trust it .
Any camera decisions I make start and end with AF performance and ensuring dual slot.

Sadly, Canon EOS-R has a single slot....lost my business there, otherwise, -6ev focus is a killer.
I may still change my mind and risk the single slot but holding back for now...
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Sep 22, 2018 14:01:51   #
Hand Held, 5DmkIV, 35mm 1.4@F4 iso1600 1/50 sec
...would have loved to have had my tripod and ND variable filters for some traffic blur.
Oh well, next time....


(Download)
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Sep 16, 2018 07:05:47   #
bkyser wrote:
I've had 2 cards fail. One with a "photographer's error" by not having the second card as back up, and one with the second card set properly. All I can say is after experiencing that, there is no way I'll ever do a wedding with just one card.

I'd rather have the automatic back up and never need it, than to have a failure, and not have it.

I know nothing of Canon gear, but as for Nikon, even if they came up with a mirrorless full frame that would somehow take advantage of my glass, I still wouldn't switch if they were limited to one card. It isn't worth it to me.

If you are dead set to go that route, it's up to you, but I would suggest you go back to using several smaller cards, and switching often like we used to back in the day, so you only risk losing a few photos instead of a whole wedding.

bk
I've had 2 cards fail. One with a "photograp... (show quote)


I considered a Sony A7III but from all the videos I have watched, it seems the AF with adapted Canon glass in low light is a bit sketchy.
My 2nd camera is a 6D (single slot) and I have anxiety until I can get the photos downloaded. All the "primary" shots are on the 5DmkIV so I will never risk not delivering but there are some shots on the 6D that I know would make the Brides day. Last wedding I shot I did not have a 2ns shooter so I setup one the groomsmen to help me get the "reveal" from 2 angles. Other than that, nothing on the 6D was critical.
Think I will wait to see what the higher end EOS-R has. Or buy a used 5DmkIII.
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Sep 5, 2018 08:47:43   #
-6 EV, gotta have it
.05 AF speed , gotta have it
28-70 @F2 , gotta have it
...single card slot....hmmm.

Single card slot a Deal breaker or worth the risk with the -6EV for those dance shots late in the evening?
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Sep 4, 2018 20:19:45   #
mkiegold86 wrote:
Things have changed a lot with digital photography. started my career as a film shooter. I shot Nikon F3 for 35mm and Hasselblad for medium format. I never worried about seeing the images as soon as I pressed the shutter of my Nikon because I knew how to operate the camera and choose an aperture and shutter speed that would give me an acceptable exposure.
When i was shooting with the Hasselblad I used A12 backs which gave me on 12 exposures on a single role of 120 film. To check the exposure I had a polaroid back that would allow me to "Pull a Roid" to check exposure before going to film. So, things have gotten easier in a lot of ways with the latest digital technology.

I like the two card slots so I can use the second for backup. Having that second copy of the RAW file has saved me a couple of times. I also cary extra cards the same way I use to cary extra film just to be prepared for anything...
Things have changed a lot with digital photography... (show quote)


I shoot weddings. Dual slot is a must. All the must have shots are done on the 5dmkiv and candids and other misc on the 6d (1 slot). I have anxiety throughout the day on the 6D until I can safely unload. I know there will come a day when the 6D sd card will die.

I would have bought the 6dii ....live the flippy screen for high and low shots....1 slot.

Eagerly awaiting the EOS-R. Only spec I really care about is the -6ev and 2 slots. (With dpaf and other standards we expect). They gave us 1 slot.....looking at a used 5dmkiii now. Really disappointed in general. Another 5dmkiv is not in the budget.
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Aug 19, 2018 02:16:28   #
raptort wrote:
I am quickly approaching retirement and plan to spend most of my time enjoying nature/wildlife photography. On a fairly tight budget and haven’t upgraded recently. Latest was a Sigma 17-70mm 2.8-4 which I’m very happy with. I purchased my onetime dream camera sometime ago, Canon 7D, but really see no reason at this time to change it. My other zoom lens is the Sigma 170-500mm 5-6.3 APO DG. Of course, a short time later they came out with the OS version. I’m wondering if I am missing the chance for better quality photos and should upgrade to a Tamron 150-600 G2. Reviews seem to favor it over the Sigma Contemporary and I wouldn’t consider the Sport because the much higher cost. Part of me thinks it’s a no brainer and just do it. But will the VC/OS and extra 100mm make that much difference? Is the quality also that much better? I try to use a tripod or monopod whenever I can currently and keep a pillow handy in my car for those opportunities. Also always make sure to use a high shutter speed if I try to handhold. I know the new lens should help in that area.
I’ve learned so much since I started following UHH and felt what better way to get advice but to post my question. Thanks,

Oh by the way, is it common for a Snowy Owl to take up residence as far south as mid-Michigan? Saw quite a few this past winter and was quite surprised to see a redwing blackbird attacking a Snowy a few weeks ago in the same area I saw it in winter/spring.
I am quickly approaching retirement and plan to sp... (show quote)


G2 is more expensive. Slightly better or worse depending on focal length being tested. They are competitive. You cant make a bad decision selecting one or the other. (selecting the Sport version would be a bad decision based on your criteria :-)
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Aug 15, 2018 17:02:45   #
gvarner wrote:
Looking back on my own learning experience, I would advise newbies to start methodically with manual mode. Either use self-taught trial and error or use a more studied, formal approach. Digital film is cheap, take lots of pictures and be self-critical. I skipped most of this advise and, after 50+ years, am still pretty much an advanced snapshooter. And study the light whether indoors or out. Planning ahead will result in more successful shots and eventually become automatic in your process. Those are my thoughts.
Looking back on my own learning experience, I woul... (show quote)


Started in photography at age 49 with 0 knowledge. Bought a 70D with kit lens and within a couple weeks had moved to full manual. Rarely if ever used the other modes then or since.

Word of caution.

If you are not a passionate learner with an unsettled creative urge... starting with Manual will frustrate...but I will say, learning the simple exposure triangle is fundamental to ALL other things you learn. If you dont understand those simple concepts and their combinations effects as well as individual effects (shutter-blur, Fstop-bokeh, ISO-noise,) ...you will be lost in the learning journey.

I saw photos online and asked "how did they get that photo"....25k of gear, 1000s of hours of study and practice later and I now do weddings, portraits, Corp events as a side job (mostly to pay for GAS but will be my vacation cruise money after I retire :-).

My experience was that learning the "
modes" was more challenging than going to straight manual. I kept "fighting the camera" as it was automating elements of the exposure triangle and really kept me from mastering it.
I WENT back to the modes AFTER I learned manual and now can use them for very specific situations when the extra 2secs to adjust settings in manual is not available (BIF in high dynamic range environments, backing out of a church during a wedding when dark to light happens instantly etc)

...and shooting RAW, using LR/PS etc ... those learning curves are longer than learning the camera.....

Net: curious creative learners who have patience - start manual

Others start Auto and learn composition so you can get positive results quickly to keep you moving forward.
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Aug 15, 2018 16:25:56   #
Laura72568 wrote:
I’ve had my share of buying and selling equipment trying to get that perfect “kit” for my passion of birding, wildlife, floral photography. I am not what you’d call a professional but I have had a show at a local gallery and have sold some of my prints. I have stuck with DSLRs for the most part...but was once pulled to the mirrorless side by Fujifilm when their X-T2 was released. I loved the ergonomics of that camera, the EVF, the weight (although with the 100-400mm, the difference was minimal) and the quality of the images I got in MOST situations. My concerns were with the AF performance for BIF (which very well could have been improved by firmware updates since then) and most noticeably the battery life EVEN WITH the addition of the battery grip.
So, here I am a few years later using two awesome Nikon DSLRs (D850/D500) and some beautiful glass and I’m getting that “itch” again.
I’m not asking for you to tell me that I should or shouldn’t switch because we all know that doesn’t work.
What I’d like is to hear some REAL detailed feedback from any serious bird/wildlife photographers about their experiences with any mirrorless systems that do or do not live up to the hype and do or do not compare to their previous DSLR setup.
Really hope this doesn’t turn in to a big debate. Just some good conversation would be nice. Thanks!
I’ve had my share of buying and selling equipment ... (show quote)


Canon Shooter here.
D850 AND D500 are rock stars in Nikon.
Only switch GAS for me would be the A9 with no blackout, no jello when using silent shutter, crazy buffer (won't quit) and 20fps. That 20fps is pretty attractive for Wildlife and sports...

...otherwise, you already have the best bodies to cover all your photo needs.
...the D850 made me wanna cry when it came out but it was still not enough to make me switch from my 5dMkiv (have too much glass)

A9 spec got the tears flowing again.

..waiting to see if Canons FF mirrorless is even remotely competitive. (The latest canon FFs were barely competitive for stills and almost useless for hybrid shooters due to codec despite awesome DPAF)

My advice, wait to see what Nikons FF Z6 Z mount adapter performance for accurate and fast AF and FPS looks like....

Load up on the antacid and keep shooting with your 2 gorgeous Nikon bodies :-)
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Aug 10, 2018 16:08:40   #
rmorrison1116 wrote:
Everyone, well maybe not every one, is waiting for the big announcement about the soon to be newest MILC cameras from Canon and to some extent, Nikon. There are articles speculating on what the big camera manufacturers have in store and what we should do with our current gear. I read something about Canon finally stepping up to the plate and finally offering a mirrorless camera people will actually buy. I found that article a bit odd and insulting since I own a Canon mirrorless and I'm a person.

So, am I supposed to try to sell my EOS 5D IV on eBay for the best possible price before it's too late, before it's considered next to worthless because everyone else is doing the same thing so they may jump onto the mirrorless bandwagon?! Are the images these MILC'S produce really any better than what I can get out of my D500 or 5DSr? If not then, what's the big deal?
Everyone, well maybe not every one, is waiting for... (show quote)


1) Reliable EYE-AF in low light.
2) Faster fps 10+
3) Adapter for my L lenses. (and works like new mount native lenses !!)
....all other features are 'meh'. (like to have a flippy screen but I will live...)

under $2500.
...you got my money Canon.
otherwise, you run the risk of me going to Sony.
...waiting for your call....
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Aug 10, 2018 15:49:23   #
bkyser wrote:
I noticed from the first time I used the YN 685, that while taking one of the 2 I have off the trigger, that it was just a little finicky.

Well, I had a photo shoot for a 4 year old, who's parents wanted her to have her photo taken while riding on her bike. It was bright sunlight, so I decided to throw the 685 (just grabbed the one in the front) on my D-500.

Well, guess what, when that part of the shoot was over, and it was time to do photos of just her, and then her with the family, uh.... the 685 would not budge. I've gotten spoiled with using the Yongnuo flash system, and remember NOTHING of the Nikon CLS, so I couldn't use the 685 as a master to the other flashes, so I ended up just doing my best with an on camera flash with a flash bender, and a reflector. I got home, and after about 2 hours of trying to not ruin my D-500, I ended up carefully taking the screws out of the bottom of the flash, then disassembling the entire foot, to get the thing off. I put it all back together, and it works... it even comes off my YN triggers easily like the other one.

My lesson here is, this could have been disastrous to my new camera body, or worse yet, during a wedding. This is why:
1. We always need to carry a spare body and extra flashes
2. (new lesson) if something is "finicky" send it back right away, or fix it before you use it on a job, any job...especially weddings.

Thankfully, all's well that ends well, but sometimes we get a little to complacent in thinking that our equipment will work, because "it always did before".

Special note to Tim Stapp. You may want to check your 685s, because I know you are a fan too. I don't know what did or didn't happen with that pin, but it's pretty scary when it gets stuck. I'd rather get it stuck on a light stand, than my camera body again, so...no more on camera flash, at least with those beauties.

bk
I noticed from the first time I used the YN 685, t... (show quote)


Same.
All my Yongnuos are a little finnicky but never had this issue. Yikes
The triggers are also but not as bad....

Moving to Godox system (need the monolight strobe for longer distance day shots....otherwise I would stay with Yongnuo)
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Aug 10, 2018 15:32:23   #
pmorin wrote:
I am including 2photos with this reply to help define my point. 1st is shot from a helicopter at the rear side window with an 18 mm focal length. The lens was an EF-S 18-200 3.5-5.6 IS. Not as good as the 16-35, but at that point it was what I had.
The 2nd is a shot from a Cessna 206 with the 16-35 L at the focal length of 16 mm, from 9000 ft. Lightly cropped for leveling.
The view you have and the shots you can take will depend on where you sit, which is always up to the pilot or loadmaster. I personally want as much width as I can get with the ability to zoom in if needed. But everyone has a different perspective when it comes to photos. I agree that the OP would get good photos with the 24-105. But the extra few mms can be useful too. Some shots will have aircraft features in them, but IMHO they help tell the story of the photograph.
And no, they do not allow people to take an extra bag.
I am including 2photos with this reply to help def... (show quote)


Nice photos !
A point of clarity, the OP has a 5Dmk4 which is FF.
The photos posted here at 18mm which are 24mm equivalent. (ie the 24-105 at the wide end on FF is the same as 18mm on an APS-C.)
...but your point is taken. And others have posted about cropping later (as long as your intention isnt to make a 20"x30" for closeup viewing). The 16-35 has great resolving capability so cropping
on the 30mp 5DmkIV will still leave enough sharp pixels for larger prints.

The key point remains, if you have to leave behind either the 24-105 of the 16-35.....the 16 gets the boot.
If you can bring them both, do it !
...however you most likely will not be changing lens in a heli (I was not allowed to even bring them on the heli in Hawaii) so you pick one and live with it.

Some have posted about using the 70-200mm. I had the 70-200mm 2.8 on my 5DmkIV and my wife had the 16-35mm on a 70D when we went in the Heli.
Most of the favorites were from @ 200mm. (Cruise ship, Waterfalls lava flowing into the ocean). Loved the wide shots but once you have 2-3, the rest are the same.
If the glaciers have waterfalls, crevasses, or there is wildlife like bears etc then the 200mm comes in handy.
Hence the 24-105 recommendation. YOu can still get the wide angle shot and get some length too....
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Aug 6, 2018 20:58:11   #
pmorin wrote:
Going up on the Glacier (Mendenhall?) you will be in a helicopter and taking a pano is not so easy. The 16-35 is a great lens and weighs about 22 oz’s. The vistas there are incredible, especially from the copter. Use the 600 for the zooms but I would also take the 24-105 & the 16-35 on your trip. I highly recommend the 16 for the Glacier.
I had mine for shots of Denali from a Cessna and was glad I did.


Full disclosure. I too had the 16-35mm mounted when in the heli over Hawaii. My wife was on that while I was on the 70-200 out the other side.
Indeed this is a case where a pano won't work (as I mentioned related to motion).
Most of the keepers did not really need the 16 mm and at that width, you are getting your feet , the heli door frame and the side of the pilots head unless you are hanging out of the copter :-)

Cessna you may be able to fly low and use the 16 width to get a nice wide shot.
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Aug 6, 2018 13:24:57   #
Linda S. wrote:
Hello! I am a senior woman whose strength is less than when I started taking photos at age 8! An avid amateur. I am taking a trip to the Inner Passage/Alaska. Was going to bring Canon 5D M4, 24-105 mm and the Canon G3X with the 600 optical zoom. Also a travel tripod...carbon Sirui...carrying it all in a Think Tank Speed Racer 2. (They are amazing to work with...not affiliated). Taking the smaller camera as my older 5D broke on the first day of another amazing trip! Question is...is it redundant to take the 16-35 lens? Not whale watching...taking a helicopter to a glacier and then taking a dog sled ride. Also taking trips into towns and gardens. Any insights would be most appreciated. Thank you!
Hello! I am a senior woman whose strength is less ... (show quote)


I have the 16-35....I think you will find the 24-105 will cover what you need. I only use the 16-35 for when I absolutely have no other choice due to width or I want it for artistic perspective shots. For the occasion you want to get wider....do a pano.

Only time you will miss it is for ultrawide shots where stuff is moving (leaves etc). Otherwise...if space and weight is an issue it is always the first lens I leave at home.
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Aug 5, 2018 08:33:11   #
Digger1 wrote:
I’m at my nephews wedding. I’m quiet in the background and VERY discreet with no flash. All thru the wedding the so called (very pregnant) professional stands to take shots and uses her flash. 1 - have things changed where weddings aren’t sacred any more? 2 - is it ok to get in everyone’s way to get the shot?


I work for the couple.
In my pre-wedding QnA we review the level of "potential" obtrusiveness I may bring and I ask the question "on a scale of 1 to 10, where are you on "Get the shot no matter what" 1 to "I dont even want to know you were there"10.

Invariably its 10.....but I plan to be as close to 1 as possible. (Never had an issue)

Sorry folks. I answer to the couple and not the guests. It's the couple wedding.

The only time the guests will see me is at the alter for the wedding party arriving and at the signing of the register and lighting of the candles (if their backs are to the guests). I can even get the ring shots from a distance.

But.....think like 10 but try to plan for 1 :-)
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Aug 5, 2018 08:20:01   #
Jules Karney wrote:
Looking for comments and suggestions from other sports shooters concerning this lens. I am thinking of buying one for basketball and volleyball. How fast does it focus, etc.
Thank you,
Jules

PS I shoot with a Nikon D500 and D4 in poorly lit gyms where I have to push the iso to 5000-8000


70-200 for the net shots in Volleyball and "other end" shots in Basketball.

Have 35mm 1.4, 50mm 1.4ART and 85mm1.4is for Canon and these are the go to lenses for under the basket action (35mm) and up one and personal shot blocking/dunking (85mm). The 50 is just not used due to AF accuracy...sharpest lens in my bag however....just not good for sports.

Shoot at 1.4 to 2.0 ... at the distances described, hitting the focus is a challenge...

All on Canon FF bodies. D500 is awesome for low light in a crop body from what I have heard but would not even bother on a Canon APS-C given the noise. (That's just me).
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