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Posts for: Sdubois
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Mar 15, 2019 07:18:13   #
I am upgrading to the VR version
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Mar 15, 2019 05:18:11   #
Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 AF-S lens for sale, US model, zoom and focus fast and smooth, in excellent condition, never used in rain, no scratches, no mold, comes with hood and both caps. Lovingly cared for, great walk around lens, fantastic for night photography, landscapes, weddings, etc. A bargain at $750 plus $15.00 shipping. Located in Narragansett RI




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Mar 14, 2019 18:40:36   #
Agreed, I like flare in some cases.. I'm going to go Prime next time and give that a whirl.
-Steve
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Mar 14, 2019 15:25:23   #
Not selling this and can't figure out how to delete this post :(
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Mar 14, 2019 15:17:06   #
Thanks for the advice, there isn't a higher quality lens in it's class so that's out. Filters cause even more grief as I have tried. ;)
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Nov 3, 2018 08:45:35   #
tainkc wrote:
I thought this was pretty cool.



Agreed! Can you crop it in without loosing the detail?
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Nov 2, 2018 17:11:25   #
kodiac1062 wrote:
Where was this taken?


In Weehawken NJ at Hamilton Park
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Nov 2, 2018 16:55:12   #
Desert Gecko wrote:
First, I agree with Brent: this is a fantastic image that even a pro would be proud of.

Regarding finding focus, I did a bit of research and tried about everything before finally finding my technique (I shoot with a Samyang 24 and also a 14, which is even more difficult to focus.) I use live view because I shoot with Sony, so that's a given. I also use focus magnification and I concentrate on a bright star or, if I have a bright distant light such as in your image, I might concentrate on one of the very-distant lights (if the distant lights are in focus, so will be the stars). If necessary, I'll temporarily bump up my ISO really high to make the pinpoints brighter in my viewfinder. Then, I slowly rock the focus ring back and forth and narrow in on the pinpoint until it is the smallest possible point -- because when the pinpoint is smallest, it is sharpest. I get better results than even using focus peaking.
First, I agree with Brent: this is a fantastic ima... (show quote)


Thank you, as a budding enthusiast it's great to hear. I use almost the same technique but hadn't thought to try increasing the ISO.. I hadn't thought that would make things brighter on the screen. And I learned quite by accident that you get much sharper star points the higher you go with the f/stop.. it's terrible at 1.4 for example and only really becomes usable at around f/4 and beyond. On my 14-24 however, it's sharp even at f/2.8.

I added a few new ones since to my web page www.p2images.com in the Night Sky gallery since but it's agonizing getting what I want from these images without a star tracker so I am going to buy one. :)
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Nov 2, 2018 08:40:31   #
Snap Shot wrote:
Comments Welcomed!


Love the first and last image! Well done!!
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Nov 2, 2018 08:39:20   #
Kmgw9v wrote:
Nikon 24-70 2.8; 70-200 2.8 Fl if you can afford it. (Both Holy Trinity)
16-35 f4 is a good alternative for the pricey and more specialized 14-24 2.8 (Holy Trinity).
The 28-300 is versatile, but only adequate for most, less than adequate for some.
The 35mm 1.4; 85mm 1.4; and 105mm 1.4 are all very good, and expensive.
The 850 needs expensive glass.


I concur wit KM.. I only buy Nikon glass and use the 14-24 f/2.8, 24-70mm f/2.8 and my 85mm f/1.4 for most of my people work. For my City Panoramas I use the amazingly affordable 80-200 AF 2.8 (screw type focus) you can get them for about 500.00 used. Can't beat the stars from the awesome aperture blades in that lens. Check out my pano work in New York City on www.p2images.com
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Oct 31, 2018 11:31:48   #
DaveC1 wrote:
Some older Nikkor lenses are noted to have almost no flair. Most of these are primes with decidedly less elements than a typical zoom. Nikkor-Q f4 200mm comes to mind as an example.


Thanks Dave, I agree I need to save my pennies and try another prime for this. I forgot I have a 28mm f/1.4 Rokinon I can try.. will do that today.
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Oct 31, 2018 11:30:11   #
hammond wrote:
I'm not an expert on this, but using the lens hood might help - stopping the light from hitting your lens is the first step to eliminating lens flare (I understand that's not possible when shooting the sun).
Otherwise, try using a filter.

And yes, higher quality lenses have better coating to reduce lens flare: but I'd try a filter before buying a more costly lens.

And last thing - it's a pretty cool photo you shot anyway!



Awe man thank you! as a relative newbie to DSLR photography it's great to hear reinforcing feedback.
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Oct 31, 2018 09:53:27   #
Pardon the cheap Halloween reference.

Hi All,
For the following image I used a Nikon D850 with a Nikkor 14-24 ISO100 f/14 1/160sec. Is there a better lens that has less lens flare? is there a technique I can use to reduce it?
I read somewhere that the 20mm f/1.8 has very little flare.
Here is the image that would have been much better without the flare.


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May 8, 2018 20:58:37   #
Desert Gecko wrote:
First, I agree with Brent: this is a fantastic image that even a pro would be proud of.

Regarding finding focus, I did a bit of research and tried about everything before finally finding my technique (I shoot with a Samyang 24 and also a 14, which is even more difficult to focus.) I use live view because I shoot with Sony, so that's a given. I also use focus magnification and I concentrate on a bright star or, if I have a bright distant light such as in your image, I might concentrate on one of the very-distant lights (if the distant lights are in focus, so will be the stars). If necessary, I'll temporarily bump up my ISO really high to make the pinpoints brighter in my viewfinder. Then, I slowly rock the focus ring back and forth and narrow in on the pinpoint until it is the smallest possible point -- because when the pinpoint is smallest, it is sharpest. I get better results than even using focus peaking.
First, I agree with Brent: this is a fantastic ima... (show quote)


Here's the weird thing.. on my D850; I use live view and can't get to a fine point unless I step the aperture down to f/4 or beyond then the stars are sharp. I have to admit I didn't expect it. But it happens on my Nikon 14-24mm as well but to a lessor degree.
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May 7, 2018 19:42:49   #
Thanks for the information SonnyE Now I want to buy a great mount to start with and eventually a telescope and dedicated cooled camera for long exposures. =)
Nice touch with the guy falling into the hole.. am thinking about this mount.. what are your thoughts?
Sky-Watcher EQ6-R Equatorial GoTo mount B&H # SKEQ6R MFR # S30300

SonnyE wrote:
You don't need to get a telescope right away. You could mount your Camera and try various lenses to get a feel for the mount, and to enjoy it's native tracking abilities.
Then grow into a telescope and guiding as you progress.
The mount can be used for a lot of things, including a powered tripod to begin with.
But if you get an Equatorial mount now, or first, you can grow forward as you fall into the black hole.
And there's a bunch of us here to help you along. Bring your questions and thoughts, and by all means your images.

I rarely use my mount for my camera alone. But for the Solar Eclipse last August, with my Tamron 150-600mm and a solar filter, it was perfect!
Kept the Sun centered for the entire event and then some.

I use an 80 mm Triple Apochromatic telescope. I can mount my Nikon to it and use it for terrestrial, as well as extraterrestrial photography. I don't often, but could.
I decided when researching I wanted a true Astro Camera so I wouldn't beat my DSLR to death.
And by now, you are beginning to see why I call it a black hole.

Happy dreaming and shopping. I made 3 different wish lists with 3 different avenues of vendors. As I researched, I groomed the lists, then finally "pulled the trigger" on one.
I knew the learning curve would be steep, but I made it up, and in spite of a few boulders rolling down on me, I persevered.
You can as well.

You already have a great eye for your Photography. With a bit of the right equipment, there is no reason to not take in the Universe.
You are here.
You don't need to get a telescope right away. You ... (show quote)
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