To many photography is an art form and a means to create or re create beauty, emotion that moves people, a feeling when you view a picture. In much the same way as a painter "interprets" what he sees onto canvas.. many of us photographers paint with light to add drama, impact and emotion to an otherwise well composed and exposed shot. I am a hobbyist and trying very hard to develop my creative eye for both composing and snapping and now also painting with light for the final view!
Technically, your camera can not capture the broad dynamic range of light that your eyes can, today's digital camera's can't yet match the dynamic tone range of film either. To get close PP provides the means to expand the dynamic range and embellish a snapshot into a more pleasing work of art. Whether you do this in the camera through the programs that are in your camera developed by the manufacturer or take on that creativity yourself (which is challenging and fun. Is the artists choice and each choice is valid.
DRO stands for dynamic range optimization. I have a sony alpha.
HDR takes 3 or more bracketed pictures, exposing for darks, normal, highlights and then merges the results into a single picture thus increasing the effective dynamic range. You can do this (depending on the camera)... in the camera or via pp ie photoshop to blend the 3 or more photos. My camera does in camera hdr, but only in jpg not raw. DRO is something similar where the camera will determine a high lighting differential between highlights and shadows, expose for the highlights and then lighten (add detail) to the shadows. My camera will do dro in raw and allows you to vary the aggressiveness of the processing.
I recently learned how to use the zone system and it works really well. You use your camera in manual. You spot meter on a known exposure such as a nuetral averge tonality (gray card, lighter blue, red orange green, average bluse sky, red brick wall, darker grass, leaves and set your shutter and f stop so that the camera reads zero and then leave it and shoot away. If you change positions or directions you will need to reset. If you can't find a nuetral then go to a pastel or the palm of your hand and set your exposure so the camera reads +1... really strong highlights? meter on a highlight and set your camera so the exposure reads between +1.75 to 2. You can also check your darks to ensure they are no less than -2, anything less than -2 will be black with no detail
recently, I've learned about the zone system for metering and getting the right exposure regardless of contrast conditions. Using the spot meter on your camera zoom in and meter on something neutral.. lighter blue, red, orange green average blue sky, red brick wall, darker grass and in manual mode adjust your shutter speed and f stop so that it has 0 on the meter. If you can't find something neutral use a pastel color, light blue sky pink yellow very light red (light toned flowers) etc and set your exposure so your meter reads +1. If you are in high contrast with very bright meter on a highlight and set to +1.75 or up to 2 (also check your darks to ensure they are no less then -2. As long as you are shooting in that same lighting condition your exposures of everything else will be right on... even though your camera meter might indicate otherwise. (YOU STAY IN MANUAL and don't deviate the settings. If you change position, direction etc. you will need to re meter.. Oh and if you can't find anything to meter on zoom in on the palm of your hand and set to +1.. Learned this at a rocky mountain school of photography class it comes from Ansel Adams and has been modified for digital cameras....
recently, I've learned about the zone system for metering and getting the right exposure regardless of contrast conditions. Using the spot meter on your camera zoom in and meter on something neutral.. lighter blue, red, orange green average blue sky, red brick wall, darker grass and in manual mode adjust your shutter speed and f stop so that it has 0 on the meter. If you can't find something neutral use a pastel color, light blue sky pink yellow very light red (light toned flowers) etc and set your exposure so your meter reads +1. If you are in high contrast with very bright meter on a highlight and set to +1.75 or up to 2 (also check your darks to ensure they are no less then -2. As long as you are shooting in that same lighting condition your exposures of everything else will be right on... even though your camera meter might indicate otherwise. (YOU STAY IN MANUAL and don't deviate the settings. If you change position, direction etc. you will need to re meter.. Oh and if you can't find anything to meter on zoom in on the palm of your hand and set to +1.. Learned this at a rocky mountain school of photography class it comes from Ansel Adams and has been modified for digital cameras....
Check out serge ramelli for some great techniques on interior design photos for real estate.
costco has a mono/tripod on sale for $199 that has a weight limit over 20 lbs...
I love the camera. It takes extraordinary photos. I've been shooting in JPG and very pleased. I used to only shoot raw with my older a100. Starting to shoot raw & jpg now.. I also have the 2470 zeiss 2.8 zoom and it is awesome too. Only issue is the camera and lens are both pretty have to lug around. I also have some old minolta maxxum lens a 50 mm 1.7 a 28-135 and a 75-300 all work great on the a99. Oh and I really like the electronic viewfinder.... How are you liking yours?
Hi my name is Lloyd and I spend my days in Scottsdale Arizona after relocating here from NJ about a dozen years ago. I've been shooting pictures for many years (mostly snapshots) and recently jumped into the fullframe world sony a99. Used to have minolta maxxum film camera and then an a100. ... and can still use my maxxum lenses. I am working on becoming a better photographer and read this forum every morning before I start my day!