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Posts for: IDguy
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Sep 30, 2022 18:35:21   #
BebuLamar wrote:
I believe it does work. Does it show P*? There is one parameter the camera considers when you turn on auto ISO is that it will keep the shutter speed at or above 1/focal length. If the lighting condition is low so that at the auto ISO low limit the camera would need max aperture and that shutter speed then the combination won't shift.


Yes, it shows P* with auto ISO. But the settings it offers aren’t usable and the thumb wheel adjustment doesn’t work.
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Sep 30, 2022 18:33:05   #
Thank you for sharing the history and your excellent images.
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Sep 30, 2022 18:23:28   #
Or you observe the damage earthquakes and avalanches can do.
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Sep 30, 2022 18:15:50   #
BebuLamar wrote:
Does it still switch to P* but doesn't change the combination of the shutter speed and aperture? If so I know why. There are many lighting condition when P and auto ISO would cause that to happen especially in low light condition. The aperture is already at maximum. The shutter speed when auto ISO is one isn't going to be lower than 1/focal length. When auto ISO is off it can be as long as 30 seconds. And thus in many conditions neither the shutter speed nor aperture would change.


That probably figures in to why they don’t allow for it.
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Sep 30, 2022 18:14:46   #
rehess wrote:
As a Mathematician P*, in the context of Auto ISO makes little sense. The equation x*y = constant makes sense. If the constant = 10, then x=2 means y=5 and x=4 means y=2.5,
but for x*y = z, if x=2, there is no unique solution; the machine doesn’t know whether to choose y=5 {in which case z=10}, or y=6 {in which case z=12}, or … or …. or


One can do what one wants with algorithms. For example you can program it to minimize ISO while maintaining exposure outside the set ISO base…while maintaining shutter speed or aperture. But they apparently chose to just ignore it so P* doesn’t work if auto ISO is selected. That is OK but deserves a footnote.
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Sep 30, 2022 15:07:58   #
JD750 wrote:
I am just curious. Why do you want to use P mode?


P* mode is nice because you control both shutter speed and fstop with the rear wheel. This leaves your index finger for other buttons such as ISO, EV, and function buttons.

The Z7 has three U modes. I use M exposure mode with auto ISO for U1 and U2. U1 is for wildlife: min fstop and shutter speed by auto ISO with min speed of 1/1000. U2 for landscape with f16 and starting speed of 1/50…but auto under auto ISO. U3 is for generic: ISO 64, f7, and 1/60 to start.
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Sep 30, 2022 11:14:24   #
No image
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Sep 30, 2022 11:13:31   #
Got it. Sorta.

It appears auto ISO causes the problem. I had been using it setting up my U settings on both cameras. P* doesn’t play with auto ISO. When you turn auto ISO off there is a delay in the P* settings changing which is why I didn’t catch it on my first try.

I was seeking to try P* for my U3 setting on the Z7II. Z50 doesn’t have U3.

Manuals deserve a footnote.
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Sep 30, 2022 10:30:11   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
Page 107 for the Z7II reference manual indicates using the main command dial to make adjustments, invoking "flexible program" and then showing the P* icon.


Right. I know how it is supposed to work. The problem is it doesn’t work.
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Sep 30, 2022 10:27:39   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
The * asterisk simply indicates you have adjusted the proposed exposure by the camera in (P)rofessional mode. So, put it back into P and adjust the shutter speed or aperture and the P* should then be displayed.


I get the P*. The problem is nothing else happens when I rotate the thumbwheel. It is supposed to go through combinations of fstop and shutter speed that satisfy the meter. Tried different metering choices too. Nothing.
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Sep 30, 2022 10:15:12   #
Trying to get P* mode to work on my new Z7II. Doesn’t work at all. Auto ISO off or on.

So I tried on my Z50: no workie.

Checked Internet. Many with problem. Also on Z6. No solutions.

Must be a menu control. Ideas?
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Sep 30, 2022 10:12:12   #
P mode doesn’t work on my Z50 either. Internet search shows many with same problem and no solutions. Any ideas?
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Sep 29, 2022 15:32:58   #
Thinking I might use P mode for U3. Used to use it mostly before I moved to M and auto ISO.

Just to note because I have seen many UHHers do not understand Nikon’s P mode. It enables a range of fstop/shutter speed combos that satisfy exposure settings. You use thumb wheel to rotate through the combinations. It is very different from Auto: you control everything.

At least that is how it is supposed to work. I just tested P* mode on the Z7II and it isn’t working. I must have some setting interfering. I checked auto ISO: not the cause. I’ll recheck on my Z50.
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Sep 29, 2022 15:04:59   #
Rongnongno wrote:
Quite frankly, you can use a single setting that will work for everything.

raw (to the maximal capabilities of your camera, 14?) + F JPG. Do remember that you can make better JPGs from a raw than the camera does, so the JPG option? Use it only if there is a need to share immediately, otherwise, it is not needed.

'Medium raw?' what the heck is that? Another hybrid to save space? There is no advantage there. Same as saving raw 12, which makes no sense at all.

I am always puzzled when someone comes out with their setting, and it turns out that they basically castrate their camera capabilities under the illusion it is 'better'.

'M' with auto ISO is a semi auto, sure there are advantages there. It is only good choice if you constrain the ISO in order to get the best results. Test your camera to check what starting ISO is best (Usually the base ISO + 2~3 for invariant sensors) the high ISO depends on your tolerance for noise.
Quite frankly, you can use a single setting that w... (show quote)


You certainly can get to what you want from any starting point. The U settings give a good start for the type of image and help not overlooking something. Easy to adjust from there.

The Zs perform very well at very high ISO. The auto ISO offering shows so you can adjust fstop or shutter speed if you don’t like what it offers. I do not see a need to constrain max ISO.

Not sure yet which settings U DOESN’T save. One I found is release mode. At least you know immediately after pressing shutter if that isn’t what you want. Wish it saved everything on I menu.

Yes, the RAW image sizes confused me at first. I thought they replaced the compression and bit setting. Not! They change the actual image size MP. And you only get to choose bits and compression for large RAW image size.
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Sep 29, 2022 14:55:35   #
R.G. wrote:
I would query your use of wide AF for landscape. It comes with the risk that the camera will use a focus point in your immediate foreground when what you really wanted was a focus point that was a specific distance away from you (and not necessarily close). Using centre weighted (or whatever your camera calls it) gives you some control over the focus point. Even if the intended subject isn't close to the centre you have the opportunity to get a focus lock and then recompose.

Somebody will no doubt point out that the plane of focus is (approximately) flat and if you swivel the camera the plane of focus swivels with it. However, in landscape photography the chances are you'll be using an aperture that's small enough to give a fair amount of DOF, so exact positioning of the plane of focus isn't essential. I would expect that to be the case most of the time in landscape photography.
I would query your use of wide AF for landscape. ... (show quote)


Thanks for your thoughts.

For landscape I used to set the single focus point a bit beyond six feet up to 1/3 into frame. If focus seems wonky I use manual focus and focus peaking. Very easy on the Zs. Thought I might try the wide but will watch it as I agree with your point.
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