IDguy Loc: Idaho

Two new things in my Z7II (upgrade from Z6) are the focus area and image quality settings. I’m interested in your suggestions. Currently:

U1 for wildlife: AFC with Auto Area AF (animals), Medium RAW & F jpeg, shutter release priority, high speed continuous release.

U2 for landscape: AFS, Wide-area AF (S), same image, focus release priority, single release.

U3 for whatever: f7 jpeg.

All in M mode with auto ISO.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Here is a comprehensive list of settings I found FYI: https://photographylife.com/recommended-nikon-z7-settings

He uses RAW file terms that the Z7 does not; e.g. “lossless compressed”. The Z7 instead uses image sizes. Although the file sizes look like the old “compressed” etc. I thought the compression algorithms retained image size.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

One other thing I just found. This could demand a thread of its own but lets see what comes up here.

I did not initially see the compression options for RAW files because they were grayed out. I had selected medium for RAW image size, thinking it covered the bit depth and compression. Learned it does not affect bit depth and compression: it truly affects image size only. AND if you do not select large you do not get the options for bit depth and compression.

I’m going for 12 bit compressed. I am a hobby photographer. Although I do post process I doubt I’d ever see a difference.

Rongnongno Loc: FL

Quite frankly, you can use a single setting that will work for everything.

raw (to the maximal capabilities of your camera, 14?) + F JPG. Do remember that you can make better JPGs from a raw than the camera does, so the JPG option? Use it only if there is a need to share immediately, otherwise, it is not needed.

'Medium raw?' what the heck is that? Another hybrid to save space? There is no advantage there. Same as saving raw 12, which makes no sense at all.

I am always puzzled when someone comes out with their setting, and it turns out that they basically castrate their camera capabilities under the illusion it is 'better'.

'M' with auto ISO is a semi auto, sure there are advantages there. It is only good choice if you constrain the ISO in order to get the best results. Test your camera to check what starting ISO is best (Usually the base ISO + 2~3 for invariant sensors) the high ISO depends on your tolerance for noise.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

I would query your use of wide AF for landscape. It comes with the risk that the camera will use a focus point in your immediate foreground when what you really wanted was a focus point that was a specific distance away from you (and not necessarily close). Using centre weighted (or whatever your camera calls it) gives you some control over the focus point. Even if the intended subject isn't close to the centre you have the opportunity to get a focus lock and then recompose.

Somebody will no doubt point out that the plane of focus is (approximately) flat and if you swivel the camera the plane of focus swivels with it. However, in landscape photography the chances are you'll be using an aperture that's small enough to give a fair amount of DOF, so exact positioning of the plane of focus isn't essential. I would expect that to be the case most of the time in landscape photography.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Thanks for your thoughts.

For landscape I used to set the single focus point a bit beyond six feet up to 1/3 into frame. If focus seems wonky I use manual focus and focus peaking. Very easy on the Zs. Thought I might try the wide but will watch it as I agree with your point.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

You certainly can get to what you want from any starting point. The U settings give a good start for the type of image and help not overlooking something. Easy to adjust from there.

The Zs perform very well at very high ISO. The auto ISO offering shows so you can adjust fstop or shutter speed if you don’t like what it offers. I do not see a need to constrain max ISO.

Not sure yet which settings U DOESN’T save. One I found is release mode. At least you know immediately after pressing shutter if that isn’t what you want. Wish it saved everything on I menu.

Yes, the RAW image sizes confused me at first. I thought they replaced the compression and bit setting. Not! They change the actual image size MP. And you only get to choose bits and compression for large RAW image size.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Thinking I might use P mode for U3. Used to use it mostly before I moved to M and auto ISO.

Just to note because I have seen many UHHers do not understand Nikon’s P mode. It enables a range of fstop/shutter speed combos that satisfy exposure settings. You use thumb wheel to rotate through the combinations. It is very different from Auto: you control everything.

At least that is how it is supposed to work. I just tested P* mode on the Z7II and it isn’t working. I must have some setting interfering. I checked auto ISO: not the cause. I’ll recheck on my Z50.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

P mode doesn’t work on my Z50 either. Internet search shows many with same problem and no solutions. Any ideas?

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

Interesting. I use spot focus for landscapes and choose a spot about 1/3 of the way in.