I just started, yesterday, experimenting with flash for wildlife (bird) photography. Lots of cool new stuff to learn.
I'm sorry I didn't do this sooner the results are, IMO, Outstanding.

Based on what I have read and watched I will be working the flash, most of the time, in Manual- High Speed Sync Mode.
The purpose of the flash in this use case is for a fit of fill as well as to give the birds colors and feather pat e runs a bit of a bump.
(I would post a sample of a couple of my first experiments but that would cause this post to be moved to the Bird Sub-caragoty and I'm really looking for some guidance vs sharing an image)

I'm shooting a Canon 7d mk2 in manual with a Canon EX58011 flash as mentioned above set to Manual-HSS.
I'm controlling flash output and flash zoom manually.

For those who might ask why Manual-HSS. For me- at this point in time- I shoot fully manual with shutters speeds well above the max 1/250 sec sync speed. I may give E-ttr a try but for now aim staying fully manual.

This afternoon as the light was fading I needed increase my camera exposure for the background and subject while reducing the flash power. This requires me to adjust the exposure on my camera and change the flash output on the flash head itself.
It is my understanding that in some cases a Canon EOS and a Canon Flash will work togeather enough so that the flash adjustments can be made through the camera body controls. (So there is no reason to physicly touch the flash head)
I have been through the 7d11 and 580ex11 manuals and I don't understand how to make this level of of control work.

Before I go back and pick the manuals apart again I want to ask the UHH members IF the 7d11 and 580ex11 will work together to allow me to control the manual flash adjustments through my camera body controls.

Some cameras have 2 card slots with the same type of card in each.
I download a card to my computer, verify it is downloaded and do the following:
take the second card out move it from slot 2 to slot 1.
Take the former slot 1 card and put into slot 2.
Then reformat both cards.
This way each slot is being used equally.
Works for me and who knows if necessary but that is what I wanted to do.
Do others do something different?
I know that those with 2 different types of cards cannot do this so they do not need to comment.

My low end I7 is long in the tooth, 8 years or so.

Hobby photographer only.

I use Photoshop, Lightroom and Affinity and NIK but have also bought over the years On1 and Capture 1 and a few others. I haven’t done much lately but I might retire soon and would thus use above more often. This is for fun and personal satisfaction only

I am getting some messages about “need more graphics card capability, etc” from some of the programs. Things are a bit slow at times. I presume newer, better would be faster.

Is there a simple answer, as of today, how much memory and what graphics cards would allow all of the above ( as of today) to work?

Are graphics cards rated as to levels (like a cpu chip I 5 or 7 for example) so that the purchase evaluation would be simpler?

How much memory would be guaranteed to be enough?

PC only please as I have tried Apple but just did not enjoy it.

Thanks for useful, pertinent information to my questions.

I have a Canon 80D and a Godox 860 external. I find when I shoot in normal landscape mode the shots are fine. If I turn the camera 90 degrees and shoot in portrait position I get really bad shadows on a background object. A wall or whatever. I haven’t tried bouncing the flash or any other techniques. The shadows are always to the subjects right so maybe it’s the slight difference in the angle when turning the camera. Any suggestions are appreciated. I have attached 2 examples. They were taken seconds apart with no change of subject or my position.

Been thinking on Affinity but have issues i need to iron out.

1. can it actually create a new image when i hit the save button?

I mean, i used to have a copy of corel back in 2004. I could open a file, draw a mustache on the cat. And save it as a new image with that name. Can i do that with affinity?

being able to save an image is big. I do not like, or use capture nxd because it "lets" me make a crop for instance, but saves it as a 3 kb file based on the original image that no other program can open.

Hello,

I am currently saving up to get a Nikon D780 to upgrade from my late grandfathers old D5100 and I have seen that there are battery grips for the D780 on places like amazon and are to my understanding not Nikon certified or whatever. Now what I am trying to find out is does anyone own a D780 with a grip and does the grip increase the 780's CH fps slightly just like how the D850 is 7fps but is bumped up to 9fps with a battery grip attached. I am not very knowledgeable on how battery grips interact with the DSLR. I cant find anything online about if the D780's CH fps is increased with one of these grips and so I am wondering if anyone here is able to answer that for me.

Many thanks,
Harry